That's what I've always done in the past - I thought it was odd that it wasn't a step on the DVD. Anyhow, it tried it with them in for the hell of it, and it was pretty easy to get the correct position using the rear wheel in 6th.
And, for anyone else getting ready to do this that may read this thread in prep: 1. After you cut the zipties along the LHS to move the wiring: Pull the lower plastic plug out of the frame that serves as the anchor for the ziptie. 2. Unplug the RHS injector plug (buys you some more wire slack.) Strap that whole wiring mess off to the right while you are working. 3. After you unhook the throttle cable, do the same with the clutch cable. Curve them up and forward out of the way. 4. Cut the zipties and remove the 2 nuts that hold your seat latch in place. Unplug the small connector and hang the whole thing off to the left. The time it takes to do this will save you time tenfold. It lets the valve cover come off without drama, and go back on without smudging the sealant. You can remove and reinstall the 3 lines at the back of the airbox without using every curse word in your vocabulary also.
Yes, for sure! And you're kindness in reminding everyone about that qualifies you for a massive kharma bonus. That finger exercise rivals Steve Vai when you are connecting the lines.
Thanks for this post! About to begin the valve adjustment procedure, but need shims first. So which ones do I buy? Should I just ask the dealer to send me a couple different ones? With gas at $5.00+ here in L.A., making a trip to the dealer costs about $15. Thanks.
You'll have no way of knowing what you need (if any) until you get into the job. The shim sizes are all different from the factory, not just bike to bike but valve to valve. When you're in there this time, even if your clearances are in spec, you can pop the shim out and record it's location and size before putting it back in. Keep that record and when it's time for the next check/adjust you can grab shims that are a smaller size (valves usually tighten) prior to tearing the bike apart. Obviously hang on to any shims you take as you maybe able to use them in a different location next time or help a buddy out. In the past my dealer didn't have shims in stock so it was a 3-5day wait to get them. Now (apparently) the 1200gs uses the same style shims so hopefully dealers will have more on hand.
Yeah the service dept has their own stock that's not available to the public. I've gone in for fork seals, wheels seals, bearings etc and I know they have them in the back for service but they won't sell them over the counter. I understand why they do it but it's annoying.
Oso, what's worse is when the local dealer (either them or ride 400kms the choice is yours) doesn't have an air filter or an oil filter in stock. So you ask them what would happen if you brought the bike into the shop for service and they tell you an oil change would take 3 to 5 days. Skinflint dealers with an inventory close to the bone. Same for the cars. "You own a BMW and you expect good service? How audacious of you! You can afford to wait. You are well heeled and live a life of leisurely pursuits! You are a wealthy playboy in search of hedonistic pursuits!..."What?" "You actually use your BMW motorcycle for daily transportation"? Well, that just won't do, you are simply an exception to the rule". That seems to be the attitude at some dealers.
In one place I saw that long feeler gauges (6" or longer) were recommended due to access issues... In another place I saw angled feeler gauges recommended .... Which is the way to go? I've only got a set of 3" gauges now, so I'll be buying something ....
I usually just buy cheapo ones and bend them, cut them lengthwise or whatever seems like it will work best for a given application. It's been a while since I checked mine but I think I used some I had kicking around with about a 60 degree bend in the last half inch of the feeler.
Thanks .... a place here in town has a set that are 12" long .... I'll cut them in half and make two sets
So is this the gasket sealer of choice? http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...l-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail I notice it's actually listed as a gasket MAKER not a gasket sealant but ...
With the new specs, all of my valves were out of clearance. I could swap a couple of mine to other valves but I still ended up needing three 4.80mm and 4.85mm shims. My local (90 miles away) dealer didn't have them so I had to order them. A & S cycles up in Sacramento got them to me in about a week. I replaced all of the gaskets and o-rings while I was in there. I ended up costing me about $150 for everything.
CaliKarl: In my experience on other vehicles, there is no way to tell what size shims you will need until the measurements & tear-down is complete. If you have done it before on your bike and have the sizes of all the installed shims written down you might be able to take an educated guess but IMHO chances are slim that it would work out ........
I thought a set of offset (angled) feeler gauges would be nice for this job... Lots of the sets start with the thinnest blade being too thick for motorcycle applications... I think this one should work well if anybody else is in the market ... if you can stand the $6.50 price... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEPDJU/
I'm holding in my hand a hardcopy of a RSD document released to dealers on 02/19/13 that states that the "revised" valve clearance is being RE-revised back to the original values, but that the the larger specifications do not have any technical disadvantages and do NOT have to be reduced to the valid (old/original) values. Reading the document it appears they the lash was INCREASED so as to be "standardized" with the Husky 900 engine, but as a result of complaints of increased noise level they are now going back to the initial settings....