Dedone trail reduce mods1100/ 1150gs

I discovered the same issue with the Hannigan trail reducer on my Kbike telelever. The fender was actually touching the fairing on full compression. I increased the preload about 3/8", it's better but still not sitting at the stock height when the bike was solo.
Pops I like the idea of the spacer on top of the shock. Next time I have the fairing off I'll check the amount of threads sticking through the nut and give that a try. I have Hyperpro shocks, may have it lengthened when it's time for a rebuild, and I'll definitely go for the remote preload adjuster.

Anyone interested in changing their front end my welder buddy and I can do that for you we've built a couple simple jigs to insure the ball joint and telelever still maintain alignment.The easiest way is to get some used parts off Ebay, as I did.The money all goes to the welder who like everyone is struggling with enough to do.I'm a retired postal worker lifetime gear head and I help the welder in the winter to have something to do.DB

Welder buddy and I have modified another telelever A-frame for a inmate, none other than Stroker gearhead,millwright, motorcycle traveler wheel builder and experimenter of all things sidecar, we only shortened his 1/2 " as he wanted to compromise, I hope he lets us know how it works.DB

German powder coating is first class its hard to get off.


Finished with 1/2" slice laying on it.
One more time thank you TwinTwin.DB

For most bikes the front end does not drop with our front end modification. For a few it does, Not really sure why, Any way we just developed a spacer to lift it back up an inch.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
jay@dmcsidecars.com

Howdy Jay,

I sure could use that spacer as the front of my bike dropped a good two inches from where it was. Let me know about this new part, thanks.

Mr Cob sir, Would you like us to send you one or come by the shop?
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
jay@dmcsidecars.com

I'm excited about the newest mod for my rig. As Dave has noted, I have opted for only a 1/2" chop-job with the hopes that the handlling will not be adversely affected when using my GS as a solo machine. We are well into the 1/2'' lengthening the bridge between the fork sliders as the 1100's are different than the lower clamp on the 1150's. I will report how it works when it's all finished and installed. I've ridden my hot-rod Harley without the car but with adjustable trees kicked out and with car tires without entering the "pucker zone". I spend alot of my time dealing with dangerous situations, but prefer to ride my motorcycles!:eek1

Howdy Jay,

Thanks for replying so quickly to my email and for sending the spacer to me. I'll take a look at what has to be done when the spacer arrives, if I don't have the tools or the know-how to accomplish this task I'll give you a call and make arrangements to stop by your shop. Again THANKS for taking care of this, but PLEASE don't ever call me Sir, whilst in the Army I was an NCO and take umbrage at being being mistakenly lumped in with officers.

Cob
If you and I end up on Drone's trip,I'll be happy to let you try mine, now I don't have a ton of experience.Only a 83Wing/Ural with and w/o steerite, a Ural test ride and Claude's 1150 (modified triple tree) and mine the same day,my steering with the stock fork angle is more precise and with one of Stroker Daves wheels it really handles incredibly well, what one would expect for all that cost.DB

Howdy davebig,

And this is at the heart of my situation. I have long been interested in Stroker's front car wheel setup and have contacted him concerning it.

However as his tire-wheel combination WILL further lower the front of the rig I simply can't see buying that setup even thou I want it. I'll see what the spacer Jay is sending me does, maybe the combitnation of the spacer and a longer front shock would allow me to use Strokers front wheel, I'll just have to wait till I get the parts and see what happens when they are installled.

Howdy All,

Just wanted to put in a plug for Jay at DMC, yesterday he mentioned that he now makes a spacer that will help raise the front of the GS's that have his steering mod.

Yesterday I asked Jay to send me one of the spacers, TODAY I received the spacer in the mail, NOW that is service. THANKS Jay, now I have to get off me arse and install it.

Where does the spacer go ? And please let us know how much it raises the skid plate or sub frame off the ground.
The trouble with the lower triple clamp modification is that it lengthens wheelbase and moves the front wheel forward and changes the fork angle making the fork into a longer lever compressing the front spring easier usually requiring a stiffer spring.Other than that it's fine they are both poor mens substitutes for leading links but I'm reasonably sure for the money shortening the telelever and moving the ball joint is a better idea and not much money.DB
Cobb
What did you do for the USA 11bravo ? I was a diesel mechanic in the USN.

Howdy davebig,

I am right now trying to figure out where the spacer goes, I have put a call into Jay for some guidance as I have not worked on that part of the bike before. I took BEFORE measurements, I'll post the before and AFTER measurements after the installing the spacer.

I was an 11B and 11D. 11B straight leg Infantry, 11D Armored Recon.

Blue and whites my favorite colors but why did you name your rig after my mother Gertrude ? LOL
Given you age and MOS you may be a lucky guy.DB

Howdy davebig,

The blue and white was and has always been my favorite Beemer color combination.

No disrespect meant to your Mom but the name Gertrude just struck me as the name of sturdy German Lady who could deal with just about anything.

Yes, after serving 18 months in RVN and going through the 68 Tet Offensive, I have had my share and then some of luck, but I am still kickin.

Howdy All,

According to my BEFORE and AFTER measurements the whole front end of the bike has raised ONE inch after installation of Jay's spacer. Heres the spacer in place. It screws to the bottom of the ball joint and then into the top of the bottom triple tree.


This has helped a lot, the next time I have the gas tank off I am going to make a spacer that goes on top of the front shock, with luck that will put the front end back where I am comfortable with how it handles going into a corner with a passenger in the tub. THANKS Jay.

I didn't get along with the woman all that well but she was a sturdy German woman and quite proud of here heritage , fairly tall like the GS,very good nurse, knew the Mayo bros, but reliably problematic, good choice.DB

When you say one inch, would that be the tip of the beak is up an inch, or the front of the subframe has one more inch of ground clearance, or what?

How hard was it to get the ball joint to come apart? I've heard those things are MF's!

Howdy DRONE,

The distance from the floor of the garage to the bottom-front of the skid plate increased ONE inch, the distance from the top of the front fender to the bottom of the beak increased ONE and 1/4 inch.

I used a very large adjustable wrench AND a large hammer, yes it was a MoFer to get that bugger to loosen up but it was either going to loosen or round off before I would give up. Owning and working on a Ural gives one the skills needed to apply a big hammer properly.

If its never been apart the Germans love their locktite, a torch or even a heat gun on high will get the job done, I've used a LARGE slip joint pliers being careful not to make it look like a hacker has been working in it.DB

You guys haven't taught me the secret handshake yet ! LOL but there's plenty room for a 3/8" spacer on top of the shock and if you have an after market shock such as Ohlins it would be easy to change the stud at the top of the shock to use a longer spacer.
Claude's version of a triple clamp device incorporated raise.DB