I have no need for $100 foot pegs on my cheap bike! $20 would have been nice, but $25 will work too. I should have them in a few days. Thanks for the heads up!
Yep, nothing special at all, but hugely better than stock (about twice the width!). If you want bullet proof (probably literally) pegs the IMS pro series are very good. They will not break - I'm quite positive you'd demolish the frame before they even budged (I had a pair on my KX250 for years and definately crash-tested them a lot lol).
Yeah, those or the Fastways are great. I only spend $1600 on the bike with upgraded carb, spring front/rear, airbox, battery removed, new bars, Kouba link, Big Gun exhaust, fork brace, etc. All told, the bike had 2600 miles and is worth every penny! I just cannot believe that I dual sported my F650GS Dakar for so long. That thing is a beast at 400+ pounds. I think my 350 is maybe 260 or so. On a side note, I've got MT21's on the bike right now, but think I want to find tires that will help me hook up a little more off road. Any suggestions on a purely off road tire? I've been searching, but every thing I've read seems to be that the tires wear out in under 1000 miles. Maybe that's just a trade off that I will have to make, but with a street legal bike I don't want to burn them up just because I wanted to ride around town a few times.
Sadly there's no such thing as a tire that works well on the street and in the dirt. Dunlop 606's might be a little better than the MT21's and Mich AC10's are also supposed to be pretty decent, but still a comprimise. For pure off road on a bike like the DR I tend to favor a bridgestone M59 front and IRC M5B rear. For a bike I'll be riding fast off road I stick with mx race rubber as its lighter and had different flex charcteristics than the m5B/m59 combo, but on the DR you'll never find the limit of the tire carcas and they are quite stiff, durable, hook up really well and last well (for an off road only tire). have fun
Hello. I bought a new 07 Dr650 I have 900 miles on it. I have been reading all the threads I can. During the past month I have read this whole thread. Lots of information but now I cant find what I need and know I have read the answer. I purchased a dyno jet kit and have installed it today. 155 jet airbox mod drilled air slide set the needle on fourth slot using the wacher and clip omitting the white spacer. Using the extended air mixture screw out 3/4 turn at 1000' elevation stock exhaust. Problem is this. It started right up. Only signifacant differance is air box noise with a slight increase in performance not much. I figured I needed to adjust the air mixture. With the bike warmed up turning the air mixture screw clockwise till light seat no stumble, out 1 1/2 no change. any help thanks, Sparky
You might have better luck starting a new thread or posting in a DR650 thread. I've never worked on a DR650 but airbox mods typically yeild more noise than anything else unless combined with other mods as well. Dialing in the jetting should always help out though, but as each bike, rider and set of conditions is different there's no one-size fits all kit - it might get you sorta close but to have it spot on you'll nearly always have to dial it in yourself. Note that the fuel screw only really affects idle and even then they are generally only really effective from about 1/2 turn out to about 2 1/2 turns out so if your outside that range (and this is just general info, I don't know much about the 650 specifically) you'll need to go to the next size pilot. good luck
Haha, I should have known! All the other tires were $40-50. Those are $70-90. I was hoping to find a good tire for cheap, but that's not terrible a terrible price as long as I can stay off the roads Thanks for your help!
OK, one more question whilest I'm in the typing mood. If I ride the 350 around town, to the store, at any speed and stop, turn it off it will immediately restart. But when I'm trail riding mostly in 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd gear and I stall the bike or turn it off to take a water break, I cannot restart the bike without letting it sit for 5-10 minutes. I can kick my little heart out, but the bike won't start. Any ideas what could be going on here or how to fix the problem? Or is this just an oil cooled bike issue?
Bit of a "hot bike" issue maybe. When kicking mine over when hot I need to use the decomp lever to find TDC and crack the throttle about 1/4 to 1/2 open. Usually starts on the first kick. This is normally a recipe for a nasty kickback if the piston's not at the top, so I always use the decomp to be sure I've got it. This method may or may not work for your bike...seems to work for mine.
Just a few pics from last weekend, me and a buddy rode up an old mining trail and found some logging going on and the road all tore up and replaced with thick mud. sorry this ones kinda blurry, the old dr's just got so much power the camera couldn't keep up
I've used every trick there is. TDC w/ decomp, TDC without, no throttle, some throttle, choke even. I'm running full Amsoil synthetic in it so it shouldn't be too hot, but still. This bike is hard to fire once it's hot!
Don't know for sure - both mine start right up hot or cold (but they have e-start). I do know that all the modern thumpers have a special hot-start button. I think it lets extra air into the carb to lean it out or something like that. I know all the OEM FCR's have them and the aftermarket FCR probably does too, might be a good excuse to upgrade For the M5B you'll probably want a 130 width (I ran a 140 on my CR500 and onmy dad's XR650L - those also work great, but I'm not 100% sure they would fit the DR's swingarm, but I think they would if you wanna try it:))
OK, I'm just going to live with the hot bike issue for now. Bike already came with the upgraded pumper carb from Jesse and I'm not ready to spend $400 on a new carb. Thanks for the width on the tire, I figured a 140 might be too large.
Hmm. You've already got a good carby on there. I found if my intake valves are just a little tight, it can cause some hard starting too. Wonder if that's why it's easier to start if you let it sit for a few minutes. Just thinking out loud.
Yeah, I've thought about that, but at this point I would rather spend my one or two days a month riding rather than checking valves. That sounds like a project for Turkey Day weekend!
Meh, it's a 1 hour job tops. Seat off, tank off, valve covers off, pop open the inspection cover and the little flywheel cover, set it to TDCC (important to find it correctly....go 'round till you do) pull out your .1mm feeler gauge and check away. Slap it all back together and ride with peace of mind.
True. I'm no slouch for checking my valves . . . maybe on Sunday. For some reason I always find that a 1 hour job turn into a 4 day job because I end up replacing things that look worn or making performance mods
Just checked mine and all the valves were just a hair loose. Now they are right in the middle of spec. With a new filter, synthetic oil and a clean K&N filter hopefully the problem solves itself. If not, I may just have to be more patient :huh
Well, I just picked up a 1990 DR350s a couple of days ago, and now found this thread; so I'm joining in. It's stock aside from the Muzzy Exhaust. 3400 miles. Licenced, with current tags, and clean title. Seller wanted $1600, we settled on $1450. Decent price? So far I haven't been able to find any problems with it, other than the missing tool box/kit. It's very clean, original looking. Tires appear to be original as well! I'd throw up a photo is someone was kind enough to walk me through the process. I'm not planning on any sort of huge list of mods. Just a few things here and there. I'm thinking new grips (the current ones are awful), tires, and a larger tank down the road. Any suggestions on DS tires or grips for this bike are appreciated! BTW, I'm pretty much a total noob to motorcycles. I rode the bike across town yesterday to get to work, and it was the first time I'd ever ridden more than just around the block!
