BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Originalmente de la pampa hence el sobrenombre , vos?

I took the XChallenge to the shop, they couldn't find the problem, should I replace the ignition barrel?

Easy enough to test. Follow the lead back from the barrel to the connector under the clocks. There are only 2 wires which should connect when ignition is on. Test barrel with multimeter or bike by shorting 2 wires from the loom itself.

The clutch perch you installed, which brand is it ?
dose it support the nutral indicator ? can you start the engin not in nutral, just by holding the clutch ? because I cant see that wire get into this new cluth.
It looks very nice of course, thas why I'm asking

Zohar

Hi Zoharl.. the perch wont hold the safety switch 'couse its universal fitment, I just took the switch off and looped the wires so it will start in gear.

The clutch perch and lever are Argentinean made, the brand is WIRTZ.. I believe they also sell internationally .. here is their site http://www.wirtz.net/catalog

There are many different options, short lever, long lever, flex levers etc.etc. you just choose what you like most.

Some of their stuff look very similar to some moose parts, I was told that they fab stuff for moose but I'm not certain of this.

I've got a stock tail-light assembly for sale if anyone is in need.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=871918

San Isidro.. Buenos Aires

Hey, you have a PM..

I am in the process of mounting a rocker switch in place of the barrel assembly. IMO they are so prone to failure I don't want to replace such a cheesy piece. Currently looking for a suitable mounting point, not sure I want it right out in the open....

Put 2 or 3 switches on there together. It will confuse people.

Or just don't worry about it. People will be looking for a key switch and miss one like that. You could also use a reed switch and a rare earth magnet.

I was thinking that if it was out in the open someone fiddling with the bike could turn it on by accident. I would bet that it will be handlebar mounted shortly. The don't worry about it option seems most likely.

Anyone have info on hardwiring a GPS Garmin Montana to the x challenge? I have purchased the ram mount (garmin) adapter that allows you to snap the GPS directly into it, then mount to the bike. I haven't received the mount yet so Im unsure on the wires. I would like to wire it into the key, so when I turn the key off the gps is not draining the battery?

Any suggestions on wiring.

The best way I found is to purchase a "automotive relay" from radio shack and use a Centech AP-1 or similar wiring block for the bike. Use the diagram below...

Here are the photos of my install...

You do not necessarily need to remove the airbox to do this install, but I was doing a bunch of other things when I did my install...

The red square in the photo to the right of the throttle body (with the red rag stuffed in it) is the automotive relay...

This place looks interesting: http://www.omwracing.com/engines_rotaxds650.htm
730, 770, or even 800cc!
Power Commander makes a tuneable fuel control unit for the X.

Macadamia Thanks for the diagram. Question though, where you have "vest", "GPS", "grip warmers" are those cigarette plug outlets?

Hello friends,
I've been reading this thread for a couple years now, ever since I started researching the x-moto I went on to buy. I haven't posted much at all since I'm very much a noob, but I'm looking for some help from fellow x-riders, and this is the best place for it.
Overall, I'm very very happy with the bike, but last night (8pm on a chilly evening) after riding 3 miles, I felt like somebody threw a water balloon at my left leg - the coolant hose disconnected from the reservoir, and spilled its content all over the road in bourgeois Brentwood. I found a spot under a streetlamp and stopped to investigate, then called up my girlfriend to deliver my tools and bottle of coolant. I reconnected the hose, made sure it was on there tight, and hopped back on my ride. After 5-10 minutes, the coolant light went on - then turned off as soon as I got up to speed on the freeway. Upon getting back home, I can see the hose is still leaking near the connection (but the hose isn't loose). Any ideas what might have caused a blowout like that, or why the hose might still be leaking? The bike has 8500 miles on it, should the gaskets be replaced on the radiator hose attachment?

Thanks in advance! I'm in east Los Angeles, if anybody is interested in riding sometime, you can PM me.

Ben

Ditch the stock hose clip and go with a traditional jubilee clamp.

I wish it was that simple, but the culprit seems to be the attachment above the hose itself. I tried finding it on the microfiche, but the level of detail on their drawings is a bit lacking and doesn't illustrate the part I'm talking about. The stock clamp seems to be holding tight, thought I could definitely replace it for safety and practicality's sake.
I'll try taking pictures tonight when I get home from work.

The diagram was found online a couple of years ago... Those were examples of things that could be powered from the set up. At the time of the photos, I had a Zumo 650 GPS, Valentine One Radar Receiver, and a set of Denali 2 lights...

Below, you can see an image of the leaking connection:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1036...s/5858226797515086305?authkey=CKvlmYz9i9PMwwE

Nice information MacNut! (and don't ever change your avatar please! )

I have several jury rigged electrical add-ons including one I just added for my Garmin Montana.

Before I got the Montana, I already had a cigarette adapter socket under my seat that has a Powerlet plug on the other end that just dangles next to the Powerlet outlet on the side when I'm not using it. The Powerlet outlet is always HOT so I figured this setup would be perfect for charging my USB devices at night when on trips. In that case I always have a tank bag on so I run the USB cable into the tank bag and just leave it there and the other end is always plugged into a USB to cigarette adapter that is plugged into the cigarette socket under my seat. Then if I want to charge a USB device I plug in the cable dangling by the Powerlet socket. At night for a couple of hours I don't want to turn my key (and headlights) on just to charge a low current device for a short while, though I try to charge it while I ride and rely on Bluetooth if possible.

The point is I figured for the Montana I would just tap into this same circuit which is unswitched, which means it stays powered on when I turn the key off. I'm starting to think this will bite me someday and I'll forget to unplug the powerlet and leave the Garmin attached, so I'm thinking I need to pick it off of a different place that is key switched. p.s. I think somebody measured the Garmin and when off it only takes a few mA of current (was it 8mA or ?) so it's not a huge deal as long as you turn it off.

The Montana rugged mount has a long battery lead with an inline fuse, a ground, and an audio jack output (for turn by turn directions). It also has 2 more data wires you can simply seal as you probably won't use them. In my case I want to move the rugged mount to another vehicle so I wanted a connector in the power lines to I could quickly disconnect and remove it. So below the Y in the cable where the wires become separated, I cut off only the 2 power lines and installed a waterproof 2-pin automotive connector (Delphi Weatherpak). Tip: use Liquid Electrical Tape from Gardner Bender (at Ace hardware) to fully seal the wires at connectors yet it remains flexible since it is rubbery. This stuff is awesome! The connector is kinda bulky though but I coiled up the excess wire and stashed it all under the handlebars in the center.

I also have AdvMonster.com aux LED lights (< 2 A) that I wired into a SWITCHED circuit at the fuse box by using a Posi-Tap at a wire coming into a fuse. If you want to be quick you could also pick off of an existing fuse but you must carefully decide which fuse to pick from based on what else is on the circuit (I didn't want to pick the engine management circuit for example!). I measured how current much different circuits ACTUALLY drew to pick one with a lot of margin, and did this by using the very handy $13 mini fuse circuit tester from Harbor Freight :



But now I'm thinking I should revisit this and put in something cleaner. I always had my eye on the sealed 3 circuit kit from Eastern Beaver as it is really slick and takes a lot of the work out of it for you. Note it has a switching lead that you connect to a switched location and that controls the relay so it is only closed when the switch is on: