I have no idea. I do know that it was a new version of software from BMW. I had to wait a few days before I could come in and get my re-map because they were having trouble installing it on their computer.
Hmm... I have an appointment in a few weeks to get some things done in preparation for a week-long trip; should I call first to make sure they have the remapping stuff already? I wanted to get the new version of the low-octane map, and with my time crunch (I leave a few days after the appointment), I really don't want to have to wait.
I'd call. just to see. They should have it. When I called to make my appointment it was the day they were installing the new software on the computer. Takes about 30 min to install if all goes well.
It is awesome. Oh wait, maybe I'm biased as those are my pictures but the mod is easy, reversible, and makes a noticeable difference with throttle modulation. No peeling of heating elements either! Thank you inmate drrags for the idea.
I'm trying to remember as it was a while ago I did this. I think it was about 1" to 1.25". I left room for a half loop and I also marked it with a indelible marker so I could keep track of it if it were slipping out. So far no problems. I would have put bigger/more in there but the throttle cable is only so long and this is all I could get away with at the time with the stock throttle cable IIRC. Since we're on the topic, I also slipped some Renthal grips OVER the stock grips to give the grips a bigger diameter making them easier and grippier to hold and to increase the outside diameter of the grip to reduce throttle sensitivity. If that's confusing, just think of turning a volume knob on your stereo. If it's a small knob, you don't need to move it much at all. Now if you were to swap it for a huge knob, even though the degrees moved would be the same, it would take much more 'spin' at the outer circumference to achieve the same degrees of rotation.
That's actually a great idea. Thanks. I took just enough slack out of the throttle cable and it seems to have made a difference. I haven't been able to try it offroad yet.
Hi Kelso! I visited you fellas (NSDSC) a few years back. I think I may have been on my 1200GS at the time or maybe my 950. You guys sent me a few of your club decals too, the very one you have as your avatar. I have one on my pannier. which I still use today on my 800, and on my toobox in my garage! "Nova Scotoa Dual Sport Club" I also have the NBDSC (New Brunswick), but that decal is on my nieces tri cycle Cool. Sorry, back on topic now.
Hey Kelsow, whaddaya'at b'y! I got the idea from this thread about grips and put two and two together. If I were to do it again, I would use the Renthal Kevlar tapered grips for better longevity and more anatomical shape. I slipped them over the stock grips using compressed air and secured them with safety wire. The heated grips still put out a reasonable amount of heat - just not as much as before, given the layer of rubber insulation you end up adding. EDIT: Just wanted to give Gangplank the credit for coming up with the grip idea in case nobody follows the link to his thread.
I'm confused :huh Wouldn't this mod make the throttle even more sensitive since it make the drum larger so the cable is actually pulled farther with less turn of the throttle?
If this is the only mod done, then there is relatively LESS throttle input for the same twist of the throttle. I can try to explain. Let's assume that your throttle hand twists the throttle enough to pull 1cm of throttle cable. That means that 1cm of throttle cable will move off the throttle cam which for the sake of discussion will move the throttle 20 degrees. If you make the throttle cam larger by increasing its diameter with a piece of 14 guage wire/epoxy/tin foil you increase its circumference. Thus, 1cm of movement of the throttle cable on the now bigger cam will result in less than 20 degrees of throttle movement because the 1cm of throttle pull is being effected on a larger effective circumference. Therefore the same amount of throttle input engages LESS throttle at the throttle pin by twisting it less than it would with the previous smaller cam.
Yes. It is diminished somewhat but I've only found it to matter when it's below 5 degrees Centigrade and raining or if you're bootin' it on the highway at near zero temps. So, for 99% of riding, there is enough heat. If you're off-road, there's so much moving back and forth that your hands don't stay still for long and thus don't really get cold. If you find there's not enough heat, it's an easy change to reverse. Also, FYI the heated grips really kick in over 4,000 RPM's so sometimes it's just a matter of dropping down a gear.
Yep. I started the thread about that. I have been running them for 7000 miles. Heated grips work. Take a bit longer to heat up but work just fine.
Anyone have a link to which Renthal grips they used or does it not matter? Looking more to reduce hand fatigue and increase comfort.
I used the renthal soft compound diamond pattern. They worked well. Reduced hand fatigue & improved control. 7000 miles & showing a little wear. Next I'll try a firmer compound. See the link above for details.