https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/s/sionide28_neutralpins_zpsc818d0dd.jpg I just noticed the link in your sig - your rebuild thread in October is part of what helped me decide to get a DRZ and rebuild it (as oppose to just getting a brand new bike). If you hadn't started your thread I probably wouldn't know jack about those pins. Funny how that works.
Really? Alright, I thought those were oil holes... So, I put them in the holes, they just sit in there? No springs or anything? Theres no magnetic pull from the engine or the other piece...
I can't believe yours just fell out - I was holding my engine sideways and shaking it to get them out before I was told by someone to use a magnet, then they came right out. Anyways - hope all goes well with the rest of your build. Edit: I think there are springs - when you put them in and depress them they should pop up a little less than a quarter inch to keep tension against the cap.
Well, I distinctly remember them falling out...so what does that black hockey puck thing do? Im thinking something may be broken if they just fell out... Thanks, just ordering parts now, almost have everything, just need intake cam, head, left radiator, right radiator sensor, primary gear for the clutch, clutch plates and im going to throw on a fmf power bomb header...thats it.
The cap? It just holds the contacts to run the switch. I'll be home in like an hour and a half and then I can take pics of all parts and the order they go in. I just checked every microfiche I can find on the DRZ and nothing shows those contacts/springs/cover or mentions neutral indicator at all. Damn. As mentioned I'll put up what I can when I get home.
Ok, so I was wrong about them having any magnetic anything holding them in place - guess mine were just stuck However they are spring loaded. https://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider-p.../sionide28_2013-01-2120172025_zpsd0d07dc9.jpg Will post spring dimensions shortly - have a question about which microfiche shows these on TT, hopefully someone responds. Ok - they are about a half inch long (uncompressed) 11.5mm and just under 3/8ths in. (4.5mm) wide. Wish I could be more help...
mmm Sounds like a timing chain stretched to me... I wouldn't worry about the head until the valves are needing reshimmed every oil change.
Anyone know where I can find a coolant overflow tank for my 2001 DRZ? I hear turkey basters work, any tips on that will get me by till I find the real thing would also be helpful. Cheers!! BKWags
Use a turkey baster and don't look back. Mine has worked great for years. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Nope, sounds like a tight valve. A timing chain that is stretched makes a rattle noise as idle comes down... Like when you adjust a mcct. A tight valve will tick constantly. I've had my can chain loosen up a couple times over the years.... Once with a acct and a couple times since the mcct and new chain. It has never sounded like that. When my valves got tight tight many years ago it sounded exactly like that. I also had the starting problems that he mentions. Bike would run fine when warm but cold I would kill my battery at times trying to get it started. Edit: oh and... The two main weak parts of a DRZ in my eyes are the valves and the oiling system. I don't take chances with either. I use the best oil possible and of a valve gets tight I rebuild the head. I'll only shim it once on the initial rebuild, check them at 3,000 miles and never look back. I also make sure to run very clean air filters at all times to help make sure I don't have to rebuild a head again. Its worked so far. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
I took the DRZ on a ride on Sunday. It was mostly washes & various terrains. Here's one of my vids. http://youtu.be/eSQRXwD_AVY
I want to get a Seat Concepts seat for my DRZ 400E, but am not sure whether to get the standard height seat, or the low seat and whether to specify standard or hard foam. I have short legs, 30" inseam and weigh about 220lbs. I want to use the bike for desert trips in Oz. I have a few questions:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> Is the standard height seat more comfy than the low seat? <o></o> I am thinking either standard height standard foam or lower with hard foam might be the go; anyone any experience or thoughts about this? Can I specify gripper for the sides as well? Is this a good idea? Cheers, Adrian
A few months ago I purchased a 2004 for $2000 8600 miles, pretty much stock except bars and case savers.
Got a low/standard foam for my S last summer. The low seat, being wider, feels like it's about the same height as the stock seat but much more comfy. The standard foam works for me. I'm about 165lb/30" inseam.
What exactly do you mean by "rebuild the head"? New valves/springs/guides/seals, or actual machine work? Reason being, I've got about 9k miles on my '05 SM, and am shimming the valves for the first time. I'm going from 285s on the intake side to 280s, and from 308s on the exhaust side to 305 for the left and 300 for the right, based on my calculations. I thought about upgrading to stainless valves and new springs/retainers at this point, but not sure if I could get away with just lapping in the new valves, or if something more extensive might be needed, seat-wise. I've had no starting/idling/running issues with it so far, just trying to be a little pro-active. Thoughts?
Why are you shimming the valves, are they out of spec or are you just trying to get them into a better spot? I set mine where I want them and never touch them again. Thats why I check them after the head rebuild at 3k and then just keave them until they get tight then rebuild. And yes by rebuild replace all the parts. Honestly id just send the head out to eddie and have him order the parts / do the machine work. From what I understand there are two options. ... stock 2 piece valves with stock Springs, retainers etc. And then ron hamp 1 piece valves with aftermarket spribgs etc. The seat needs to be machined cause the valves have a coating on them. You can't lap the valves or you'll take that coating off. If it were me is do one piece valves on a supermoto and 2 piece on a of road bike. The 2 piece are not as expensive and I hope that the sand will wear them out before a weld breaks. On a street used bike id assume the valves would last much longer snd id be afraid the valve could come apart at some point. Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using tapatalk 2
getsome kibble whites and ditch the 2 piece stock valves...$30 ish a piece and theyll last forever, you can use the stock springs, but for $100 you can get a kibblewhite spring set. $220 gets you a bomb proof head, set it and forget it.
The valves are within spec, but on the tight side. I'm looking at replacing the enire valvetrain with a Kibblewhite stainless valve/spring/Ti retainer set, which I imagine (hope) can just be lapped to the seat (shouldn't be any funky coating on the stainless, right?). Though it's an SM, it sees a lot more dirt that tarmack, so I like the added reliability of the one-piece valves. Guess I'll start shopping! Thanks!
