Thought I'd let everyone know I put my 1997 DR-350 in the flea market. It's in the OKC area. PM me if anyone's interested. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20075725#post20075725
It is common for the idle fuel jet to get partially clogged, then the natural compensation is to turn the idle speed screw. This gives a higher rpm but has it idleing partly on the mid range circuit. Sometimes, but not always, indicated by a slow drop off to idle, or pulsing.
I think stock is 1500.....however, agree you should also look at the O rings as they seem to be troublesome.
I've been thinking about getting a dual-sport for a while now; I currently have 2 street bikes. I've been thinking that a 350 would be the right balance of decent power and light weight. I found a 1999 DR350 on Craigslist just a few miles from me. The bike has 1500 miles on it; original tires; chain is kind of rusty; and it hasn't had the break-in valve check performed; but otherwise looks new. I went & looked at it & rode it - it runs good. It comes with a rack, tank & tailbag. The owner wanted $2700, but I got him down to $2500. What'dya think? Is this a decent deal?
So guys, did someone presidentially-engineer my bike or do all the factory throttle tubes have the grips formed directly onto them? went out lastnight to install a new set of grips and i started on the throttle side first...the thing is like PERMANTNENTLY on there...i cant even seem to find a seem or nothing?!
2500 seems abit steep to me but hey im cheep payed 400 for mine but also am still working some bugs out
what sizes of this tire http://www.bikebandit.com/shinko-244-motorcycle-tire?b=1634026 should i run on my dr350 im not sure how to convert metric to standard
Yup, They're made on there. I got a new Motion Pro throttle tube off Ebay for about $10, free shipping. And use the old one for a spare. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b30662a5&vxp=mtr Actually, wanted to use a Vista Cruise, and it wasn't worth messin around with the old one ( old, screwed up hand). Had a friend turn down the lip/grip stop, on his lathe for smooth operation and made a little brass cup to hold the Vista Cruise. Works great.
"whittled" old grip off. Then used an electric sander with 80 grit paper to smooth it out. Wasn't too bad.
If it is an e-start street model it is worth it. The pirce paid on a motorcycle is really nothing compared to the amount of money you dump into over the years. So you might as well start with the "best" year.
3.00/21 for the front 4.6 / 18 for the rear. 110 / 90 /18. Means 110mm (4.3 inches). The 90 means that 90% of the width is the height. 100 would mean that the tire is a perfect tube. Last number is the rim size. These are just estimates though. Every manufacture makes their tires slightly different in size. I have these sizes for the 244 works good. Friend has gone through 5 sets on his dr350. This is really the only size to get.
Thanks for the replies. Yeah, it is an electric start, street legal, clean title. Do the '99s have any particular weakness I should know about?
THe reason the 99SE is the best year are because of their forks. They should be the cartirdge forks that looks like not this
I used 3.25x21 and 5.10x18 Kenda k270 last time. They fit fine,seem to be wearing good, and look good. But, I'm not sure I like the traction properties. Rode some Texas Hill Country slick a$$ed limestone dirt rodes a couple of weeks ago, and slid right through a couple of thoes right angle down hill turns.Or maybe my declining dirt skills suck.
We put the size recommended as stock in the manual (4.10x18) on the wife's DR back wheel, and it's too small. Definitely will go with the 5.10 next time.
I paid $2K with pretty much the same setup back in March with a better chain, I'd say it's a tad high but if it is in like new condition it's definitely an option. Mine had 5K miles but was flawless, it didn't look like it ever went down, original turn signals and all.
