I went to the IMS show in Seattle today. I found myself hanging around the Kawasaki displays more than any other. I actualy was talking up the C14 to folks that came by and sat on the two they had there. One guy said "You should be getting paid." Funny. I was also looking at the Buells, and some sales guy came up, and was talking to me about one I happened to be looking at. "Oh, it's got this and this, and that and that.. What kind of bike are you riding now?" "Connie." He walked off without saying another word. Obviously he knew the Connie was a superior bike, and there wasn't much point in bragging about an inferior one.
Here's one from today.... gotta say she's rock steady with 50mph gusting winds, had to find a sheltered area to enjoy a cig... still shining after 15 months!!!
it fits through the gate with ease and you enjoy your view from the hill sides I suppose BTW that is me on the bike in 2nd its a slow 600 you guys crack me up my apology to the guy who started the thread.
Come on, one of you'z guy'z has to have put enough mile on one of these 14's to require plugs and a valve adjustment........what's the dealer price of these services! Bruce
http://forum.concours.org/index.php?topic=47800.0 http://forum.concours.org/index.php?topic=48672.0 and the maintenance video for the do it yourselfers... http://www.angelridevideos.com/
When I was considering buying a C14, I did some research on this to check the cost and see if it was something I'd want to do myself. I came across this picture over on concours.org from someone that was doing the valve job himself, and was not having fun. I decided to call the dealer's service manager. The service manager said it would be 5 hours at $80/hour and the interval is every 15K miles.
That doesn't look much worse than my BMW RT. In all honesty it took longer to take the plastic off that first time than it did to check/adjust the valves. I was taking my time and making sure I didn't miss a screw etc. and break something. Subsequent jobs went much faster but it still took just as long to remove all the plastic as it did to do the actual work. That's just a fact of life of faired bikes and if you have a dealer do your servicing, then you're gonna pay someone $80/hr to remove said fairings. That's one of the reasons I buy a service manual and prefer to do the work myself. Also one of the reasons why I prefer naked bikes, they allow you to just get to work. But seeing a pile of plastic like that on the floor, shouldn't discourage anyone from trying this or from buying the bike if they really like it. Just count on an extra hour or two spent every 15,000mi, no big deal. I thought the oil change procedure on Jodie's BMW F650 was ridiculously complicated the first time I did it. Mainly because it was the first dry sump bike we had ever owned. All our other bikes were drain plug with spin on filter and 10 minute jobs. But after my second time with the F650 it only took another 15 minutes to do an oil change. Big deal, every 10,000kms. So many people like to complain about the valve adjust interval on BMW boxers, but sheesh, it's a 15-20 minute job and could be done on the side of the road if necessary. Our bikes are machines and machines need maintenance. If the bike makes you smile, then doing the maintenance isn't a big deal, it's all part of the experience.
I do all my own maintenance. I am at close to 14000 miles for my first year with the C-14, so it is just about time to adjust the valves. Plus this will give me something to do on the days when the roads are two icey. I rode on Sunday, cold just above freezing, light mist of rain, and strong winds, but hey still got in about 70 miles. I thought it was going to turn to freezing rain before I got home. One thing the C-14 does pretty well is protect you from the elements. Was thinking of doing an extended ride the week end before Christmas, I will just have to wait and see what the road conditions are. They can change hourly in Michigan. I don't mind the cold, or even a patch or two of ice and snow, its when its miles of snow or ice and you have to ride at a crawl with 4x4 SUV and trucks blowing buy that takes the fun out of the ride.
Just to get it moving again, a little happy snap from today's pseudo-summer ride.... left Sydney in a cool 20C and arrived in the Blue Mountains in much cooler 9.5C with drizzle and light rain... (nokia pic, not the best quality) Stopped to get some wet gear on and a local pulled up to check out the bike, then stopped a little later on for a cig and the cops pulled up and only wanted a look at it as well... such a show off
Today I got another 200 miles in on the Georgia Tag-O-Rama. Got the tag at Burtons Ferry. Nice ride; clocked 21,230 miles in 8 months of riding this bike...Good Times!
i just did my valves, it was an involved process, but really not all that bad in retrospect. the next one will go much quicker and smoother. this one was about 11 or so hours total, next time will probably be closer to 5, maybe 6.
good job, TJ!! I have a long way to go. I bought my C14 ABS about 2 weeks ago and rode only 200+ miles.
Thanks, that's a big help. Mainly I was wondering about ergos; I've got bar backs and dropped pegs on my RT (I'm 6'0").
that was all time except for driving in a 50 mile radius gathering up the shims i needed. my areas supply of them is lacking. ater checking the clearance, going ahead and pulling the cams is not hard or time consuming. total time including getting shims would be more like 36-40 hours! it would do you well to start asking around and seeing who has a good selection in your area. you may be able to bug your dealer into ordering a refill shim kit before you need them. anything in the 2.20 to 2.40 range seems to be what we need. also, maximize your opportunity to take one shim and move it to another valve. i was able to do that for seven of my valves...those remaining nine proved to be more challenging to locate! the shims are 9.48 diameter btw, not 7.48...a non kawi dealer will not know that answer to that question. bring your calipers to the dealer with you and measure any shim you pick up...dont rely on the stamped size markings
You can buy shim kits from companies like HotCams in either 7.48 or 9.48 mm OD. Thery only come in incrrements of .05mm where the Kawasaki shims come in increments of .025mm. You can still get each valve within the spec with the .05mm increment shims, just not in the middle of the spec sometimes. It depends on how fussy you are. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390022254141&ru=http://motors.search.ebay.com:80/390022254141_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1
This bike is on my short list to replace my 07DL650ABS and would like to get your feedback on the following: 1. Two up 2. Reliability to date 3. Cost of ownership (maintenance, frequency, etc.) 4. Any known issues to be on the look out for or must have farkles 5. Commuter (to/from work in the city - Detroit) capabilities 6. Overall Comfort 7. Handling characteristics 8. Gas Mileage & type Ride style 95% street with the balance hard packed camping/fire trails. Me: 6'1" 190lbs. 32" inseam; Her: 5'5" 140lbs. THANKS
The link provided will help, lots of useful info onthe GTR/C14 there: my opinions on your list however: 1. Two up: no idea, single and loving it 2. Reliability to date: I have only 26,000km, so far nothing rattled off, failed beyond the standard (recall) issues (glovebox; bag locks) although I've also had loose header nuts as have many others....I have a great service/dealer...tyres, mine have averaged around 6-10K km each set (with fronts retaining some more life...) 3. Cost of ownership (maintenance, frequency, etc.) no more, infact somewhat less cost of servicing than my previous BMW... 4. Any known issues to be on the look out for or must have farkles: the exhaust header nuts seem to be the most common issue, some folk have had warped discs; farkles, many... bar risers, peg lowers, good range of racks around, also good range of touring screens too.. 5. Commuter (to/from work in the city - Detroit) capabilities: it does get warm if you're sitting forever in jams, it's a little wide to split, but performs fine in traffic, very tractable and light to ride at low speed.. 6. Overall Comfort: I thought the factory gel seat would be great, till I found it rock hard, since enjoying the standard seat with the airhawk-seat cushion for longer rides...I have bar-risers and peg lowers, for me its now brilliant for all day.. 7. Handling characteristics: jeckel and hyde, but with good manners...can hold boring legal speeds with ease and comfort... give it a twist and it becomes a phenomenal fun rocket, smooth launch into the 200+kmh as quick as your happy grin turns to laughter 8. Gas Mileage & type: it sucks the fuel when you twist, but most get around the 40(us) mpg+, not the most eco but...the performance outways the adequate economy... Ride style 95% street with the balance hard packed camping/fire trails.: I didn't like it in dirt, didn't seem happy/secure and I couldnt imagine it on its side and my weakling frame tying to pick it up in between bouts of tears Me: 6'1" 190lbs. 32" inseam; Her: 5'5" 140lbs. You'll be fine, I'm only 5'6"ish and about 125lbs.... Test ride one longer than around the block, they're quite fun