BAH... y'all are a randy bunch hey creep, if you have the gumption and time, throw up some pics and stuff about your tools and work. lots of us have no idea what goes into your craft and I for one would find it interesting. no trade secrets or full DIY methods, just a sampler of sorts.
Interesting... that might take awhile though, so it will have to wait till the weekend. Short version is... I make the port surfaces "compliant" with the direction of air flow, blend and smooth-blend and smooth. This takes 4 to 6 hours of cutting and sanding with a 20K rpm hand-held porting head, depending on the flaws I find. I remove the obvious impediments (or at least obvious to me) while making every attempt to remove as little material as possible... this is done in an effort to keep port air velocity high for a good useable broad torque curve. Before all this, I inspect the head and guides for serviceability and correct any dimensional issues. Sometimes, a head can need so much work that it is more cost effective to replace the casting with a new or low mile used replacement. I don't try to achieve a mirror finish... it is a waste of my time and the customers money. A 320-400 grit finish is more than adequate for the air to proceed happily along its desired path. This is followed with a 3 or 4 angle valve seat re-cutting with particular attention paid to and seat widths and location. I use hand-turned carbide cutters... one angle at a time. Narrow and wide seats both have advantages and disadvantages... the trick is to compromise to best advantage for intended usage. A head that you want to last a few years will be cut differently from one used in competition. I also consider stem protrusion while cutting seats, as this has a bearing on total available travel and spring pressure. Spring pressure is based on peak RPM and valve weight. Pressure must be sufficient to control valve movements up to and including red line, but not much more than that (unless it's a competition engine, then my rule of thumb is 25% in excess of red line) as excessive pressure will wear out valve train components prematurely. Final measurements, minor touch ups and final assembly. Oh, and 3 to 4 cleaning stages. That's it in a nut shell... thanks for asking.
I never thought I'd do this but I just ordered the LC4 racing cam (951170). Hopefully there's still one laying around somewhere. I read the manual pages about the removal and install of the cam and it's less complicated than I expected, so I'm going to jump in. Ordered bearings, circlips, o-ring, washers too. Keep in mind my bike is 1999. Will I be somewhat underwhelmed with the improvement, providing 951170 still exists, in comparison to a hi-flow equipped motor? Oh.. I forgot to ask. The ktm part # for three-bond sealant was insanely priced. What's a good sealant for the valve cover and water pump?
I don't know what the numbers are for that cam, but chances are it is upper mid-range to redline oriented. Without doing anything else, you probably won't see too dramatic of an improvement. Everything has to match the intended application, from the airbox to the tail pipe to get the most from a cam. Performance cams, especially "bolt-in" cams, are no "free lunch"... if you gain a few HP on top, you may loose 6 ft. lbs. of torque in the midrange to get it. Because the intake valve closes later to improve the charge volume at high RPM, the corrected compression is reduced so... bye bye low end and mid range. You may have to install a higher compression piston to get it back. What the hell, I guess we'll find out, huh? I have not seen a pre â03 head to compare it to a High Flow, so I canât answer that question. The only obvious things are the size of the exhaust valves, along with the port and combustion chamber changes to accommodate them. Yamabond 4 is probably going to be what you want, or Three-bond brand equivalent. Best of good luck with this one, Creep
Hopefully. I'm still a bit worried that this part may be unavailable, and I don't want to get any of the more aggressive cams. I think I'm ok with low end loss. It's quite the peppy down there. Hopefully I won't notice a decrease in mid range as that's kinda what I want. Well, wait a min, is 5-6k mid range? I want more higher speed roll-on power if I can get it. That's really a blast! I checked my odo and it's approaching 10k. I figure it's now or never if I'm going to do something like this.
Potatoho, I posted 3 replies I recieved from Sommer KTM in Germany here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75608&page=3&pp=15&highlight=sommer Note they did not see the benefits of a racing cam without high flow headers (Akrapovics or probably the KTM Ti supermoto headers). Maybe the SXC dual pipe setup would do it Just another piece of the pie that creeper stated.
is that stuff Thixotropic like the Permabond stuff? http://www.homershams.co.nz/a_P_A136.htm http://www.homershams.co.nz/a_P_HH190.htm http://www.homershams.co.nz/a_L_515.htm Just curious about this stuff - no gasket for better "load transmission"?
Holy moley Meat.... I've heard of thixotropism applied to catsup, but not Loctite....what's the application? The groundlings need to know....
I cried too. Thixotropic: The viscosity decreases as the shear rate increases. :huh there shouldn't be any shear stress in this application so that works right? it's just the thumper paint shaker that makes me wonder why this stuff doesn't liquefy and seep out? "Permabond A136 Ready Gasket / Flange sealant An anaerobic material designed for making âformed in situâ gaskets between metal surfaces. It is capable of replacing a wide range of âconventionalâ gaskets thereby offering potential for reduced stock holdings. By allowing surface to surface contact load transmission can be improved. As the product does not shrink, creep or relax after curing no bolt retightening is required. Its excellent chemical resistance allows its use with a wide variety of gases and liquids." Shear Strength (MPa) 12 Maybe its not thixo after it cures... "Permabond HH190 Anaerobic Gasket Maker An anaerobic curing flange sealant that can replace, or be used as a dressing for, conventional pre-cut gaskets. Since the HH190 is a flowable paste, it conforms to the shape of the flange. The consistency allows metal to metal contact of the flanges while filling the areas where no contact exists because if irregularities. HH190 results in uniform stress distribution and eliminates the need for re-torquing because of stress relaxation of the flange bolts. It provides instant seal depending on the gap and flange width and ultimate seal up to 5000 psi. Because of the flexible nature of the cured polymer, HH190 has good vibration and shock resistance. HH190 provides convenience of assembly and is easy to dis-assemble as well." Shear Strength (MPa) 12 VS. Loctite 515 Shear Strength (N/mm2) 6 anyone got the conversion for millipascals to newtons per mm2? This gets beyond me... the Permabond might be stronger but i dunno how to choose one over the other. seems like the HH190 is for filling the gaps where the standard gasket can mate with the surfaces adequately, but it also can replace gaskets. Why use a gasket anymore? the anaerobic bit worries me; what happens if it gets oxygen? up to 5000psi once fully cured sounds good! did notice that all of these are only good to 150 celsius (300 farenheit)... is that good enough?
Mebbe dis mo'betta: http://www.homershams.co.nz/a_P_MH199.htm http://www.homershams.co.nz/a_P_MH196.htm "Permabond MH196 High Temperature Anaerobic Gasketmaker Permabond MH196 is an anaerobic material designed for making formed 'in situ' gaskets between metal surfaces. Remains Flexible for impact and vibration resistance. " Colour Red Viscosity (mPa.s) 150,000 (Thixotropic) Density 1.1 Handling Time 10-20 mins Working Strength 1 hour Full Strength 24 hours Shear Strength (MPa) 18-13 Torque Strength (Nm) Breakaway: 7-10 Prevail: 12-18 Gap Fill (mm) 0.5 Temp Range -55/200 °C stop?
So what you're saying is that if you have a thixotropic anaerobic paste, formed in situ with the stress relaxation of the flange bolts, then you will not shrink or creep until the convenience of the assembly has a reduced capacity for stock holding. Yea, that's the ticket....now I got it
yeah, i work with punchcards... or did ya forget? chris, you lost me at the second sentence So what you're saying is that if you have a thixotropic anaerobic paste yeah... formed in situ with the stress relaxation of the flange bolts, in situ, yeah but flange bolts add stress so i dont find this relaxing... then you will not shrink or creep until the convenience of the assembly has a reduced capacity for stock holding. no shrinkage or creeping - funny how those go together
951170 is unavailable. So I'm left with Tornado G1, which is very similar, other than costing TWICE as much. Or I can go with the MSP3 rallye cam and springs and wind up around the same cost as 951170, except with perhaps too much cam. There are other cam options too, including getting mine welded up by webcam.
I can't do it! That's too much money for the same thing. And the rallye cam is sure to break me in half. So I'll keep looking for a 951170, or check if megacyclecam will make one, or buy a stocker and get it welded up by webcam.
