That is what Suzuki wants you to believe. If they put them in an SV no one would buy Busa's they work that well.
That doesn't make sense. Wouldn't Suzuki want to you to buy a Suzuki not a bus a please stop trolling and stick to the subject. I need to buy a chain soon and don't want to get ripped off by a greedy corpiration
It is all a plot by the man, just go buy a chain and good luck they will get you in the end. They always do!
All engines have a power band, 2-Ts tend to have a narrower one. You can always go to an adjustable powerband though... http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=36 No dice on a chain shrinker. I'd start with a sheet-metal shrinker and start modifying. F*ck the "man" and all he tries to get out of you.
I was gonna recommend the cross-drilled brake lines. I installed them in my truck. Cut my commute time in half. No longer would a red light make me stop. Did notice slight increase in wear on my front bumper but that's to be expected. Bike will get'em next.
Do they go with his shrunk swing arm? Or have the sprokets expanded? They should make adjustable sprokets to match the chains as they ware... Need someone into recycling (or should that be rechaining )
That's why it's so important to spend the extra money to get your swingarm hardened before you put too many miles on the bike.
I never for a moment thought that I was offering comic reprieve, but hey, if checking to see if the engine bolt holes have widened or the sprocket size is slightly larger than it should be, have at it guys. As for chain stretch, that is commonly done by all manufacturers, as far as I know. And As far as I and you all should be concerned, do we really want to pay TWICE as much TWICE as often because a simple technical question "Why is a new chain of correct specification already halfway gone" not answered? We deserve an answer.
Okay, well here is my serious answer: If this is indeed a real issue (which I don't think it is, at all, no offense), I think you should be pointing the finger at the bike manufacturer(s), not the chain manufacturers. A chain is a chain. They are designed to fit thousands of different bikes. They are manufactured to a specification to be used on many motorcycles. The bike engineers would be the ones who would need to design the engine, swingarm, and sprocket(s) placement so that the swingarm adjustment would be all the way forward with a new chain. My guess is that they purposefully designed it so that a chain with the recommended number of links on stock sprockets would fall in the middle of the swingarm adjustment range. This way, if a chain manufacturer built a chain that was a little shorter or a little longer, it would still work. Go take a look at brand new bikes at your local dealer. See if they come from the factory with a chain that sits right about in the middle of the swingarm chain adjustment range. I don't know if I am correct on this, but I would guess that most new bikes do, and do so on purpose. I truly think you're looking for an answer to an issue that isn't actually an issue.
A very thoughtful answer Max, with a reasoanble analysis and proposition. The next time I am at a bike shop, I will do so. But if memory serves me right, my new '06 SV650 chain was at the start of the swing-arm mark. Which is a contributing reason for the 33,000 miles I got on that chain. It seems to me that I have a right to expect the same economy since the original specifications were not altered. And certainly not 1/3rd of the life of the stock DID chain with the standard sprocket size and good maintenance. The Emperor is looking for his clothes here partner. There is just too much deviance from an acceptable standard for something fundamental not to be wrong.
well if your swingarm is ok and the engine mount holes aren't worn.I think what you need to do is figure out if the chain is reaching its wear limit before it reaches the end of the adjustment range. A quick google search shows this if you checked your manual I would check the owners manual to verify that number but i saw it in a few places so it is probably ok and it appears to be industry standard. http://www.renthalroad.com/File/chainwheel_fitting.aspx Since a chain is not only a maintenance item that can leave you on the side of the road it is also a safety issue that can cause a wreck or broken cases I change mine as soon as I detect any binding or noticeable wear in the pins Also it seems that you are going through a chain every 3 years or so on average. At around 176 bucks for a complete chain and sprocket kit or $58 dollars a year I fail to see how you would be saving big bucks. you could probably save more by using a cheaper chain lube
Not trying to be a wiseass, chains need no more accurate a measuring device than a ruler. Pull it tight, measure center of pin to pin down the line a given number of links. There's a standard length plus or minus a tolerance for a new chain, and an acceptable wear limit for when it should be replaced. This part of the discussion is nothing new. The Black Helicopter part, however, is.
Remove a link and go for a ride. If you don't have enough slack to do this, I guess the chain was the right length.
