Experience with AdvDesigns FuzeBlock

http://www.advdesigns.com/fuzeblock.html
I have a deposit down on a 2012 GSA and one of the first things that will need to be set up is my gerbings gear. This looks nice for wiring but was wondering if anyone has first-hand experience with it.

I need to ask them what the total allowed amperage is.

Also, any suggestion for a good place to mount it?

Thanks,

-Ian

I had one on my VFR800, and have nothing but praise for the design and execution. I put it under the seat and ran gloves, jacket, Zumo 550 and an extra plug (use to be determined).

It went when I sold the VFR and I regret being in so much of a hurry to delive rto the buyer as I meant to keep the fuzeblock.

John

I have a 2012 GS and mounted my FuzeBlock just above the battery against the tank where the manual is supposed to go. I removed the manual holder. You just have to make sure the height adjustment crossbar on the seat doesn't crush it.

I can't comment on the capacity but I have my Power Commander+Autotune running off it as well my Denali lights and PIAA 1100 LED lights with a GPS soon coming.

bigbadandugly

If my memory is correct the total is 30 amps for the Fuzeblock and 10 amps for an individual circuit. The ability to choose between switched or always connected to the power is great. I did not mount mine under the seat, I found space up front on the left side.

Check out this thread for how I mounted it: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812460

There is a switched connector up under the beak for a GPS that I am using to switch the Fuzeblock. The connector that mates to it is about $15 at the dealer.

I don't have any experience with the FuzeBlock but if you want an alternative since it appears to be backordered (again) I'd heartily recommend the Eastern Beaver PC-8. It can be ordered with 30A or 50A harness and a diode already soldered in to protect the Canbus system. I've intalled this on two bikes now, including my current '12 GSA and it's a fantastic unit.

I'm running the FuzeBlock on my wife's 650GS twin and the Centech on my 1200GSA. Both are very good products. If I were to do it over again I'd put the FuzeBlock on the 1200GSA. The design of the FuzeBlock is a bit cleaner.

This goes without saying but I'm going to say it anyway; be sure to bring extra fuses in various amperage ratings. You can buy a couple of variety packs for cheap. We were in Capital Reef NP and I had fuses but not low enough amperage to use.

RobStar

I've got one accessory hub under the tool tray, upside down glued to it.

The second sits under the tank just forward and above the air intake, in the centre of the bike...

I have an 1150GS, so no comment on where to mount it. A previous poster is correct: 30A total and 10A for one circuit. It's an excellent product.

The manufacturer's site is here: www.fuzeblocks.com.

You might want to check this one out too


http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules

ADV Vendor

Thanks, also for install locations and pointers to alternatives. If it's 30A/10A then it may not work for me -- heated clothing. Will check those out when I get a chance. I'm on a trip and internet is spotty (man, I didn't much I had come to rely on it!). Trip is good but looking forward to getting back and finding my new bike waiting for me

-Ian

What heated gear do you have? I run my Tourmaster Synergy jacket through my Fuzeblock and don't have any problems. The jacket draws 7 amps.

Gerbings. They use a 15A fuse, and jacket+pants draw up to ~13.5A.

So far I'm liking the PC-8 but still looking.

-Ian

Love mine. Hasn't blown any fuses yet.

I want circuit breakers!!!!

I'm sick of worrying that I have enough of THE RIGHT fuses with me in the event I'm tracing a short!

Yeah, that would be a problem. I like the solid-state unit mentioned above. The 15A circuit would take care of you.

Wire one outlet socket (for your 13amp heated gear) off two fused circuits in parallel (7.5amp or 10amp fuse in each circuit). If you have enough free circuits its an easy way to have a 15amp outlet.

I bought a fuze lock for my r1200gs. Just trying to work out if I should tap into the diagnostic socket or beak gps outlet for the ignition wire. They seem a good product for bikes!

2011 install on GSA. Works perfect, I only have my gps and tank bag wired but planning in Gerblings.


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Just put my FZ1 yesterday. The spaghetti factory is gone . Wired to diag socket through a 2amp fuse. Works just fine. Recommend cutting the leads to the BMW socket under the seat and wire to FZ1. Now I can run anything up to 10a out of it including my battery charger. I also run my electric vest connector out of the FZ1 like most folks but have taken a spare power connector and put an SAE plug on it. I can use it for any SAE type device. Life without CanBus is great

Not to sound dense, but what's the advantage to using some sort of distribution block versus just wiring directly to the battery? I have no need for switched power that I can see, and everything I have wired in has it's own fuse. It just seems like you're adding another failure point.

Functionally - nothing. If all you need is 1 or 2 unswitched leads then going directly to the battery is fine. Getting more than 1 or 2 ring terminals on the battery posts is a PITA, and results in a huge tangle of wires, so a fuse block helps tidy things up, along with providing switched power.