I'm asking $150 for a carb with six hours on it ($450 new). Hit a rock and cracked the engine case and fried the motor. I've got the rest of the bike to part out as well as a Cycle Racks rack. I'm extremely negotiable on price at this point. I want somebody to get some use from what's left of the bike. PM me if you want/need anything. I need to get this thing out of my garage.
I bought the OEM kit from my dealer. It was $30 or so. Here is one for a bit less so I'd shop around. http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043003f8700209bc78a9c1/front-master-cylinder Item #2
Llamas, Grreatdog is giving you some good info. I don't think the XT shocks ever had any rebound damping. That's why they need to be rebuilt and revalved before they're of any use. Adding a remote reservoir can help. Give it 200 psi and you can use the stock spring.
Hey folks, I do a lot of highway riding and I found that above 90 kph things got buzzy, and cruising at 100 kph and above was uncomfortable. At 100 the engine was turning over at ~5800 rpm. I then removed the standard 55 tooth rear sprocket and installed a 52. Much better! I can cruise comfortably at 100 now with the engine turning over at 5400. The difference starting from a stop is negligable so it's fine for what i do offroad too. Hope it helps, Captain Caution.
Could someone post a pic of the way the main wiring harness attaches to the frame. Putting mine together from boxes of parts and the shop manual doesnt show it. edit: nevermind, P.O. jacked up the harness so I cut all the wrapping off and re-wrapped it correctly.
Hello XT350 friends I've had this XT 350 for a couple of years - I've had some maintenance done by my local bike shop - but it is still pretty tricky to kickstart - especially when it's warm. I'm in San Jose, CA - anyone recommend a shop or a mechanic to help me sort this problem?
If your engines healthy with good compression, your valves are set correctly, the automatic compression release is set correctly, and your carb is all clean and good with a bone stock airbox, it should be a one kick bike warm. I would eyeball how the airfilter looks, and then maybe the carb innerds after that if all else looks good. Mine is one kick start with over 13k miles. Whats your start proceedure when warm ? Nice 350 by the way !
Sounds like great advice - if I understood a word of it! It's a 1999 - it's got 1500 miles, never been off road and hasn't got a scratch on it - looks like new:) I love it cos it reminds me of a DT 125 I had when I was a kid in England. I'll just take it to the shop and let them cahrge me another $600 for god knows what.... Cheers!
It's the jetting and Pilot screw. The California version is jetted even leaner than the 49 state bikes. You may not find a shop that will mess with either due to emission laws. I would start with adjusting the pilot screw. In order to get to it, you have to drill out the little brass cap on the bottom of the primary carb. There is a pic and better instructions in this thread. Also a ton of other info. With proper carb adjustments, the bike goes from one of the worst starters to one of the best.
Just a heads up guys, if you are going to do much off road riding with high water, you should probably relocate your crank vent. the line runs to the bottom of the airbox, at a lower point than the airbox drain. While it is past the air filter, gritty water can get past it pretty easily. I managed to lose compression in mine after getting a small amount of river water in the airbox. Pulling everything apart conclusively showed that a bunch of small dirt particles had gotten in via the vent and scored the lower parts of the cylinder bore. A good fix would be to relocate it to the top of the airbox along the side somewhere, and cap off the original hole.
In an exciting turn of events, after pulling apart my engine due to the low compression, I discovered that my cylinder bore was 86.5mm. Normally not a big deal, right? Just bored a size over at some point. Well, the piston is still 86mm. Just to check myself before buying parts, I checked the ring gap of the old rings. Spec: 0.25 to 0.4 mm. Mine: 2.28 mm :huh. No wonder it was low on compression.
I've been working on my 91 XT 350 for 3 years now, I've finally gotten it next to mint operating condition, witch it ran great when I got it with 2000 miles, has 9500 now. Anyways I've got definite answers for Jets that go in the secondary carburetor, jets for the primary and a definite bolt on and go 520 chain conversion with all top notch steel sprockets, I've rode 3500 miles on my 520 chain and the chain is tight & still on its 3rd tightening, I ride it everyday for about 6 or 7 months a year, its my primary wheels. I also just bought a handful of swap in parts for the secondary main jets, and I have a couple 128 and 130 main jets for the primary carb, so far I've put a 130 in the main carb with a new dg pipe and stock air box n filter, also when I cleaned my stock pilot jet it ran perfect with the fuel screw set at 2 turns out. I have 120 jets for the secondary main carb, I'm gonna throw one of them in there as I feel this bike will still take more fuel. Anyways lets revive yamaha XT 350 performance forums and tech swapping ideas, Like I said I have jets for both carbs and Jt sprockets steel 520 sprockets and 520 chains that bolt right on don't even have to take a link out of the chain. I'm running 15/40 sprockets which is 2.66 gearing and it pulls really well through top end, harder n faster than it pulled with stock gearing because the chain is stronger and with really good jetting, i'm at 800 ft altitude. The chain I use is 8500 pound tensile strength vs oem chain that is 4000 lb tensile strength, you do the match on that. When you notice that 428 chains are what they use on go carts and yz 80's you know something is wrong with that on the xzt 350. Stock gearing is 2.89. Now if I hold it I can get 30 mph in first gear and its faster all around because the motor is really strong the gearing was just too short from factory. It runs about 4300 rpm at 55 mph and is a real nice street cruiser now, also the clean pilot and bigger main jet has drastically cooled the bike. I rode today 10 miles and its 90 degrees here. normally that thing is too freakin hot, it felt so much better, big time, it felt like a normal atv or bike, warm but not so damn hot you know its about overheated. Also with more fuel through the jets it hands down accelerates faster to top speed of about 80 mph than it did with stock gearing, stock gears you gotta shift too much, and believe you me it feels like a faster bike with longer gears because it pulls them just as hard except instead of shifiting 4 or 5 times to 50 mph you may only shift 3 times. 3500 rpm at 35 mph in 5th gear, 3100 or 3000rpm at 35 mph in 6th gear. I've got the parts and have been selling them at really good price just to get the "good" parts into the hands of the guys who need them. Hit me up, I'm Dan email me- lanaalumpy@yahoo.com, also see my ebay listing!!! thumpertalk members mention thumpertalk you'll get a discount just cuz I know you're around the threads and could maybe help me with something one day. Last but definitely foremost!! Praise the Lord, through Him, all things are possible, and I am truly blessed by the Lord Himself
The reason the XT is geared short is so that you can use it as a trail bike. Stock final drive ratio is something 2.89:1 iirc, and I've taken mine down to 2.81:1 when I did the conversion just to keep it around 6k revs on the highway. typical rule of thumb is you want to stay below 80% of max rpm if it's for long periods of time, so that puts me about right. If anything, it's a little too long for technical trail riding.
