Trying to change out the handlebars and am having some problems with the throttle tube. The two damn Phillips heads that hold it onto the bar will not budge. I've put pb blaster on them to no avail, am I missing something?
I called Yoshimura just now. There will be a complete exhaust system (muffler & header) and a slip-on only (muffler). They are using the RS4 duplex chamber setup with packing material. Mid 90s db range, not EPA compliant. Available in 6 weeks or so - just after the New Year. They will take your name for pre-orders - 800-634-9166.
Agreed. I just got mine. Yikes! Looks like a high school kids welding project. Another question. Any need for the fi controller if you just want a slip on?
You don't have to. But the controller is well worth it for the performance you will gain combined with the slip-on.
Some mods... Still got handlebars sitting since I can't get my stock throttle tube off... Stupid phillips screws Untitled by Guerillah, on Flickr
I dropped off my new 2013 CRF250L at Flatland Racing today. They will be developing accessories using my bike as the pattern. In the next two weeks they'll have skid plates & radiator guards. Next will be a rear rack. Around Christmas they'll borrow my bike again, then most likely disc brake guards will follow. They seem like great guys, all are experienced riders. They gave me the grand tour of their manufacturing & retail facilities. The owner told me they have been in business for 20 years. All of their accessories look like quality stuff, I look forward to getting my bike back with the new farkles.
Thanks! I like them, definitely free'd up some weight, difference isn't hugely noticeable but can surely be felt (as far as power). It was popping a bit after install of just the exhaust components. Once I added the fuel controller is when it opened up. I also did the airbox mods and filter mod that can be seen on bestdualsports.com . The 13 tooth front socket was also a big boost to the gearing, tons of fun in the dirt at this point. I need some better tires than stock though as they kind of suck in the sand.
Guerilla, an impact driver will get those screws out, it converts the downward hammer tap into turning motion while at the same time insuring that the bit stays in the screw. This one is "brand C": http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...P&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=32-196072104-2
Hey Guerilla, I second this post above, that is the exact tool I used to get mine off. i was shocked as to how tight those suckers were in there.
follow up about the HBD mirrors on the HBD handguards.. yes there is a little doubling at night. when you see the headlights in the mirrors you will see the main headlight with two faint headlights on each side.. not really that bad though. totally tolerable.. I have seen some other people throw some stick on mirrors over them but i don't see the need
I bought a similar but more compact impact that uses normal 1/4" hex bits from Harbor Freight.very inexpensive...plenty stout to do what you need....however the sears one is robust enough for bigger jobs....BUT if you haven't buggered the screw head, take your phillips, put it in the "+", and smack it a couple times with a hammer....50% of the time that will shock the threads enough come unstuck.....replace them with socket head screws
Thanks guys! I will give it a try today with an impact and the correct bit, luckily I didn't damage the heads.
Yup...Balkan Boy is correct...they are not EXACTLY phillips...and the "+" is more shallow....for quick and dirty, you can grind (file) off the tip of the phillips to make sure you have a good bite in the +.....but trying a couple of smacks won't hurt...because if the bond is broken, it'll be loose enough that you don't bugger the +