Matt, how soon would you need it? I can custom make one, or have one set up that way by my guys the next time I make a production run in the next month. Jim
probably After the Remix. no rush. I have some measuring to do, if it works I might need Two. but I'm not sure yet.
electric starter is now installed! the new battery is the perfect size for the limited space i have under the seat....; side by side with the old baja kit battery.
I used to have them made with a connector for this type of overcharge protection: (I don't sell these myself) http://www.all-battery.com/protectioncircuitmodulefor3cellslifepo4batterypack-2.aspx ...but frankly there has been no need for them as used as a starter battery. What kind of application are you planning? If your bike has a steady 14.8 V output during running you won't hurt the battery. If there was a lot of demand for the plug I could have it added back in, but it ads another $15 to the battery packs. Jim
it will be a starting battery for my bike, it runs a consistent 16-18 volts and nothing i have done or read changes it.
Have you thought about changing to a different voltage regulator or even putting one right between the battery and the rest of the bike/stock regulator?
sure i thought about it, and i'd do a mosfet if i could but apparently mine is a super duper special black ground wire reg/rec and it needs to be replaced with the same. i'm pretty good with electrical and have done much reading but i think i need to rewind and change the whole charging circuit? i dunno for sure, i dont fry lead batteries, my current one is 1.5 yrs old and i am replacing it because it broke this past w/e mechanically, not electrically.
There are regulator/rectifiers (R/R) and just regulators out there. if you don't want to mess with changing your current charging system. and a New R/R does not fix it. try picking up a small stand alone 12v regulator. they have some cheap 4 wire ones from china. just carry an extra one with you in the tool kit encase it fails. lol. there is no problem running 18v dc into a R/R either. it will will just ignore the diodes in side that "rectify" it and regulate the voltage down to it's set output. That said, you don't actually Want 12v output. you want 13.2-14.5v output. Most bikes regulate to about 14.2v. If your bike does not have a starter, it has a single wire running into the postoperative side of the battery. if you put a small 12v regulator on this wire between the bike and the battery positive, and a second wire that bypasses the regulator with a hi amp diode in it, A 5amp diode should work fine, set to block the 18v system voltage, but allowing battery voltage to flow back to the bike. (if system votlage is lower than battery voltage) you will have 14.2v at the battery charging it, no mater What system voltage is on the bike while it is running. Here is a cheap one that would work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Regu...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2307405968 or you could buy one for a modern sport bike or something. I plan on doing something similar for my KE100 and DT175. I will rewire my stator to put out 12+v (if it isn't already.) install a battery from here, install 12v lights and a 12v R/R. Then take a small 6v (7.2v) R/R similar to the 12v I linked to. this will be set between system voltage and the ignition system. Should kick start really well with 7.2v available from the system voltage even before it starts running. Plus, i can do all the cool stuff with my lights and charge my cell phone or a GPS. (and my light bulbs will be available Anywhere. lol)
Do you post to Australia?I have a klr650 kick start only,but has a 1.3amp electric waterpump.What would be the smallest battery i could use?Cheers Peter
herrhelmet Placed an order for my Dakar. With the BMW electrics how long could the battery remain hoked up before the voltage gets too low, (obviously I would disconnect for extended periods, eg; winter) but could you leave it for say a week or two? Longer? Is it alright to top off with a trickle charge every few days if its not getting ridden?
We post regularly to Australia... As long as your charging system works and you only have stock lighting you could get by with the 2.3 Ah.
If its just the digital clock and no alarm, etc. you can leave it without a charger for weeks. If you are going to have a charger connector that sticks out of the bike, check the voltage after a few days and if it/s around 13.3 it should hold that for some time.
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I wonder how this will work on a Buell Ulysses,as the fan comes on after shutdown,around 30 to 60 seconds on high and maybe 2 minutes on low.Will it be able to hold charge and start the bike after?......
We installed a 6.9Ah on a Buell Firebolt. Same type of fan. Battery has no problem with 2 minutes of fan running. It fit in the space in front of the old battery box. We still have them in stock, but the Ballistic 12 cell is the same set up so we may discontinue the Sycl 12 cell 6.9, ... the Ballistic is just slightly larger than the Sycl because of the plastic case.
The 6.9 is the one I'm looking at,with the hard case.My biggest concern is reliability,as i use this bike for long trips cross country. My plan is to actually move the battery inside the airbox so I can open up the battery tray under the seat to help the hot air escape after the fan.
