Valve job tips?

IIRK, it was a 14mm nut. Either way, its one of the two sizes that come on the adapter. This was the only tool, besides a standard torque wrench and socket, that I needed to torque all of the nuts.
-cp

Thanks for the info. After checking the engine parts catalogue it looks like the tool for the inner nuts is just a slimmed down 13mm socket - so I guess a standard 1/4", or maybe a 3/8" socket will fit in there. The external nut is listed as an M8, which should be a 13mm head as well (following normal metric sizing conventions).

Well, in addition to my earlier post regarding lapping shims, I thought y'all would like to know that the shims used in a Harley-Davidson V-Rod are the same 10mm dia. shims used in our KTMs, as well as the Aprilia RSV v-twins.

So, once again, lapping shims is not recommended by ANY mfg., especially when swapping them out is the easier method.

Thanks for the info!

Dave

I don't have the threaded tool to lock the crankshaft at the valve timing marks. I just used a socket on a breaker bar and zip-tied that to the frame to hold it in place. Seems to work just fine.

Hi All,

just about to get my 03 950 off to the local mechanic for a number of jobs:
- valve job
- carb adjustments
- removal of some (apparently) unecessary pollution hardware
- oil change

Much of which I am capable of doing myself, but with three cars, 3 bikes, 3 kids and two jobs in the family I don't have a lot of time.

The bike has only 12,000kms, most of them are mine from the past 12 months, since I bought it with 2,000km on the clock (seriously! the previous owner rode it a few times and parked it, and crept into a corner, shaking with fear..... whereupon I bought it at a more than reasonable price).

My local mechanic is a ducati specialist and a very fine mechanic, have known him 20+ years and trust him implicitly. I have no faith in local KTM branded mechanics or dealers. Said mechanic wants to know which other bikes (brands/models) the shims interchange with? Any clues apart from those already posted?

Thanks in advance

Aprilia apparantly, and also Harley V Rod. Basically it. The individual shims are $5 at the KTM dealer so unless there isn't a dealer who can get them, why woud you use anything else?

ktmtalk.com has them for about $3.50.

With the three that I've done, at TDC, the locking tool would engage in the indent and lock the engine, at which point the threaded tool would protrude about 1/3". I would have to conclude that if yours was going flush with the engine that you were not at TDC, or possibly you were on the other stroke...

On mine, the tool protrudes with rear cylinder at TDC, is flush with front cylinder at TDC, and disappears otherwise.

You don't have to buy a torque wrench adapter that is what the beer opener in your tool kit is really for.

What size is the bolt/threaded rod tool? Is it the same size as the bolt removed, but longer?

After seeing MotoMedic's post mentioning that Aprilia also uses 10mm shims I've done a little searching.
Yes, they are 10mm in diameter, and better still they come in 0.025mm intervals, rather than the 0.05mm interval that KTM offer theirs in. So you can get your clearances closer to ideal spec by fitting the aprilia items instead of KTM.

.025mm = .001 inch. Can't ask for much more than that. Any leads on where to get them? Other than an Aprillia dealer? Mine's the same asshat that sells BMW's and KTM's in my area.

I got this tool, and it is 12 and 14 mm. My head nuts are 13. Are the original nuts the same size as the TSB replacements?

I have used fine emery on glass to mill down many shims and never had one show any signs of wear because they do not move to create wear. What grinding allows you to do is get to the exact outer limit for maximum mileage between valve jobs as KTM recommends. Factory shims only come in 2.5 thousandth sizes, which only allow you to get in the ball park range. So I guess its just a matter of how fussy one is.

See my post above regarding Aprilia shims which come in 0.025mm intervals - I can't see why you'd need to get closer than that. If you keep a record of the sizes you're currently using, then make up a list of the sizes you're likely to need on the next check, and get them by mail order before you start work.

So weres the pics and play by play????? I thought I was ready to dive into this, but know I'm scared to death. I have the bike striped (and I had fun doing it), Its the first time I have had the carbs off (cant believe the amount of oil that gets dumped down there):huh .
I can't read to good, where's the pics. I'm a scared.

OK, I dove right in, and here is were I an at.

Front Cylinder
Intake Clearance .18 Right and Left
Exhaust Clearance .28 R & L

Rear Cylinder
Intake Clearance .12 R & L
Exhaust Clearance .23 R & L


So, what do you guy think?

The rear is on the tight side of the clearances, so I'm plan'n on move'n them to the center of the clearances.
Say: .17 and .28

The front is on the loose side of the clearances. I was think'n of leave'n it alone. What do you experts think????