2013 F800GS Charcoal Canister

Search feature in this website is not so friendly:
Charcoal
Charcoal Canister
Fuel Canister
Fuel System
Used these queries, nothing came up, yet I know there are posts on the topic.

Specifically, the 2013 F800GS Charcoal Filter/Canister modification or removal. I found the earlier model mods, but the placement of the canister is different and harder to remove on the 2K13 model.

Please post the information on the mod or point me to the right post!

the search function on this site must be broken lately.......


for the 13 and newer...good luck. it's all part of a plastic box, the only way I could see how to take it out is when the engine is removed, or maybe if the entire airbox and throttle bodies are removed.

I quit while I was ahead in that one. You could just disconnect the lines and bypass it though.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=950980&highlight=charcoal+cannister

I pushed, pulled, twisted, shoved, pried, argued, and bled on my 2013 charcoal can.
gave up after 2 hours, that puzzle piece would not UN-fit.

I got the same result and have simply modified it (thanks for the link)...I was hoping to use the space for a stash can, nothing dubious, for extra parts n pieces.

Whats the canister made from, alloy or plastic? What about cutting it into pieces, then removing them?

Mine seems to be plastic, I would love to carve it into bite sized pieces, small enough to fit through the frame rails gaps... YOU first, document with pictures, PLEASE

yeah, you first!!!

How about mr 20 fingers, My vote is that he, with the extra fingers should lead the way, 2013 Charcoal-Canister-ectomy.
Take lotsa pics, okay ?

Canister removal is now kind of a fad thing that began with genuine problems with activated charcoal being drawn back into the fuel system in early BMW emissions control systems. The charcoal was such a hassle that owners, including me, were removing the canisters because BMW wasn't doing anything to fix it. But 15 years later, canister removal has become one of those urban legend "must-do" mods that refuses to die even though the charcoal problems were sorted many models ago.

My '07 R1200R and my '09 F800GS have never had the problems with the canister that my '02 R1150R did.

Leave it be and we'll all breathe easier.

Fred

Thanks, but no thanks...even with 20Fingers, no going to be cutting up my canister anytime soon. Fred makes a valid argument, over time the engineers have to accept feedback. I disconnected and plugged the line to the one way valve and routed the tank breather tube under the seats rear-most storage area. I put an inline micro (5/16) fuel filer on the end so it can trap fuel on a major dump but breath when under normal use. I did this due to some random stalling issues, if this mod stops the stalling issue, I am going to leave the mod in place. If is does not, the system is going back to stock, through the canister.

The only argument I have with leaving the canister in play is that laying the bike over on its side, falling is part of dirt riding on these bikes, the canister can fill; once filled, then what? In a saturated state, will the bike run properly and how does one clean out the extra fuel? We all agree that getting to and removing/replacing the canister is near impossible (and, dangerous to cut up if flooded) without some major wrenching. So, flooding it is not something I want to deal with, and as long as I am riding dirt, the potential to drop the bike in a place I am not able to recover it quickly, creates a risk I want to eliminate. So, as a precautionary step, the modification is going to, most likely, stay as long as I own this bike. interestingly noted in my research of this issue is the fact that the canister is not a standard piece of equipment on all bikes and more oriented to USA bikes. If the canister was as common as an air filter or O2 sensor, I might not be as interested in modifying it.

I left mine in place too, but disconnected the hoses, like you did.

The charcoal canister has two chambers. The bottom one is filled with activated carbon pellets. Fuel fumes are drawn into to the top chamber and then routed to the bottom one to be cleansed. It is then drawn up through the engine via a hose with a one way valve on it. Liquids were allowed to drip out of a bottom drain hose.

The 2009 F800s would draw water up the drain hose when the valving was opened to purge the bottom chamber of fumes. There is a Recall on those bikes to install a vacuum break in the drain tube.

If you get water or gas from over filling the fuel tank into the bottom chamber, that liquid will break down the pellets.

Best case is they will cease to clean emissions. Worst case is it can result in water or gas contaminated with charcoal sludge to get into your fuel delivery system.

In my case, indication of trouble with the canister on my 2010 F800Gs was the onset of 'vacuum-breaking' sound when opening the fuel tank cap. Unlike other reports scattered through the forum, I never had any issues with the motor dying. After a few months of breaking a vacuum every time the tank was opened, the fuel gauge started indicating improperly, showing more fuel than actual based on odometer multiplied by onboard computer average MPG mental calculation.

I took the bike in with one week left on warranty to have the fuel gage problem dealt with. BMW dealer removed the canister (at my expense, which I approved) using what he said was BMW-approved procedure, instantly fixed both problems. The canister was full of water, probably from when I dropped the bike in a water puddle out in the woods, resulting in it lying horizontal, half submerged. Interesting, the air filter was dry at the end of that episode, and I rode the bike back out no problem.

I just removed the Charcoal Canister and ABS this weekend from my 2013 800GS. Yes, it was a huge pain to do:

• Unbolt all the brake lines to the ABS as well as the plug
• I had to take the top bolt off the rear shock and move it out of the way rearward
• At this point you can pull the CC out from the top
• The plastic casing that holds it all together will NOT come out in one piece. It must be put in there when the motor is out. I had to cut it into four pieces as shown in picture
• The ABS is bolted to the casing as well so it stays attached until you cut it out.

You can of course leave the ABS in there and just remove the CC.


From the pics you can see this dropped about 3.8 lbs. But I bet if you add in the extra brake lines (to go back and forth from ABS) and ABS sensors and wires we are talking close to 5 lbs off. Not a lot but there is one benefit I did not see until I did this: you can relocate the battery into the same spot. Lower Center of Gravity.

Well Done Sir,
Its a fantastic description and now a temptation! Although moving the battery seems useful enough, what about re-wiring issues? Also, the empty battery chamber could be used for something cool, mobile communications pod?

Thanks so much for posting this MOD & great work!

wow.

So you can actually get the canister out without destroying all that plastic? I was looking at it and couldn't figure out how.

I love the ABS... At least on the wet streets of DC and MD, saved my ass for sure. But keep in mind if you relocate are you adding more weight for wire? Or even increasing elemental exposure? I am curious.

Did you reiinstall the abs with scraps from original bracket?

No, did not reinstall the ABS. Never planned to. Just not a big fan. More a fan of less is more. My goal is to have a simpler bike that is easier to work on.

Have an ABS unit for for sale if any interest

Fin,

Were you able to pull the canister without destroying that plastic?

Man, you know, now that you ask that I think i did have to remove one little tab from the backside of the plastic bracket to get the CC out. Cannot remember the order now 100%, sorry.

You're fired, take the weekend off