Hey Swan, one thing to look out for with these tanks is the moulded in mounting nuts.... they are square brass buttons that are moulded into the plastic. If you can, get one of the mounting bolts and screw it into each of the holes in turn and see if there is any movement as they get loose over time, loose = leaks ! ( Maybe just a product of over land bikes here in OZ that have done hundreds of klms of corrugation's?)
Anyone here have an extra xr600 crankshaft they want to sell? That is probably in spec? We have 2 and one of them the new wrist pin from the piston kit definitely rattles around in the con rod when jiggled. The other one has some movement but not as much. I don't think there should be any human detectable movement there, but haven't had a pro with a micrometer check it out. This is for a 1996 xr600 my brother and I are building for him. The second crank, if usable, is from a 1985 xr600, that shouldn't pose any problems, right?
I just got this TODAY from KUSH and after much thought and advice I figured it best to NOT modify this already drilled and sized sprocket and get the undrilled version and have it modified to fit my 88 XR600. Pictures on request, it's still wrapped in bubble wrap! I'll let it go for $100 shipped. Here is the link to the manufacturer. http://www.kushsprockets.com/sprockets These are the years it will fit: 91-00 XR600 93-09 XR650L
thanks Royal to fit it I would need the caliper mount as well,as the slide configuration is different. I think the ad was incorrect
So my xr600r is weeping oil out the kickstart seal. What all is involved in replacing this?Remove the kickstart lever, remove the case, pop the oil one out, tap in the new one with a socket , throw it back together? Where's the best place I can buy the correct oil seal for my 94 ?
Pull the kick lever. Stab the seal with an ice pick and pry it out. Either order the Honda seal or go to a bearing house and get Oil Seal (20 X32 X6) 91202-KJ9-003
Thanks for the advice on my rear shockie build up lads.. she's finished off and looking SCHMICKO ! I waited until a test ride before posting just in case the thing drop its guts. The new springs front and rear are a h.u.g.e improvement, the front end was a complete mess to ride before the springs went in, I used 7 weight oil. The rear is awesome, really transformed the bike, so much better in the bush now... .....I put bolts thru the mounts, placed it in a vice on the floor to operate through the stroke, to get the air bubbles to the top...this is also a good way to wreck your back..:eek1. I used a spirit level to square the mounts up before bolting it in. Rode along a dry river as far as I could go during the test ride. You can just see the pig there on the right, only made it about 1 klm before going got too tough.
Ok team, I am definitely missing this oil plug in the end of the countershaft, that I posted about yesterday. Since it looks like it is impossible to source one, and Steve said it is important to have, I am thinking I will just try and find something similar to maintain oil pressure/flow in the countershaft. But I'm not entirely sure where the plug sits...between the idler gear oil hole and shaft hole? or in front of both of them, completeing blocking the shaft? See my sweet diagram for more info. If any of you have a spare countershaft sitting around, or some good photos when you did a rebuild please post them up (and if you have an old shaft with a spare plug, pm me ). Cool, good chat. John
I just finished typing a PM and now I see this post. The plug goes where the green mark is. Just inside the end of the shaft. My shaft has 6 stake marks around the hole to retain the plug. It would not go where the blue mark is as it would starve the outer most gear of oil.
Ahh sorry about that Steve. I ended up having another 15 minutes before a conference so I whipped up the diagram for fun. Using your measurements (thanks!) I bought a 10mm diameter welsch plug and ground it down till it was about 4mm high. Bought some Permatex weld stuff (like JB Weld) and plugged it all in, making sure it didn't block the first oil hole. I would like to say that this has been a success. So if this every happens to anyone else on the net, just get a 10mm plug and stick it in! Thanks again Steve, John
I think you should solder a plug in there instead of glueing. Are you willing to risk damage and another teardown?
So, I can purchase a new caliper from local shop for $200. Will be sending the new one back Sent from my phone using Tapatalk
