Radian: that white GR has a short build thread on Dotheton.com. I know the owner is from Europe somewhere......... Radian and VTwin: there is a bolt on adjustable brake lever for the GS500 master cylinder. The guys on the GSTwins could probably rattle off the part #, but I could search for it if you'd like? Edit: here's the thread discussing brake levers: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52698.msg604843#msg604843 Great scoots too - both of you.
Big Rich, That makes an interesting option. VTwin noted that the front brake light switch is different, so I'd have to figure that out, or switch the GS500 MC (although I hate the cheesy assembly Suzuki used on the GR and the early GS's, so that switch wouldn't be the worst thing.) I'll definitely keep this option in mind. The one thing I'd LOVE to change (well, it is really two things--related) is the big V shape to the side panels and the front of the seat. I just think that part of the bike doesn't fit the character of the front half of the bike. Perhaps I'm just acclimated to the style of the Brit twins that the front half of the GR copies so well. Looks like the design team got interrupted half way through and forgot what they were doing. Or the original team was fired and the back half was designed by the sport bike team. It is very angular while the tank is very swoopy. It is just too big and draws the eye too much. Trying to decide if, when I paint the bike, I can visually hide the V shape of the side panels with the proper paint scheme. Either I have to change the panel look, or I have to figure out a more angular tank that will fit the bike. Or--just suck it up and ride the bike. (Feeling very good that I can FINALLY worry about the cosmetics rather than mechanical issues. Been a long time getting to that point. I've learned a lot on the journey and I like that part of having an old bike.)
Aside from the miniscule capacity and the wide front end, I actually like the stock tank. I've tried a couple different tanks to the GR frame, and nothing is a bolt on swap yet........ I know what you mean about the side covers too. When I bought the "stock" GR, the PO had cracked the one mounting peg off and used some kind of bolt to hold it in the frame. I think it was a piece of all thread with an acorn nut on each end? Wish I could remember......... If you do start swapping around the cosmetic bits, let me know. I'll be happy to offer any help I can.
Thanks Big Rich, I think my first shot will to paint the bike and lose the Tempter name badge. Toying with how I change the lower front edge of the seat and change out the side panel. Something more like this
Well, you can do what everyone else does - take a good side-shot photo with a digital camera, import it into your computer and use MS Paint to experiment with different looks. The advantage you have is that your tank bottom is already flat and your tank doesn't have any downward "swoops" on the tail end like many '80s tanks. Try "painting" your tank white and your side panels black. It might be too much black, but you could add a Suzuki "S" emblem in place of the "Tempter" name plate. Unless you remove the "sissy bar" and go with a different seat/tail it will probably never look like a W650 (or Bonneville), but it is surprising what different paint can do. Also look at the "deluxe" GR650 with the two-tone paint scheme (and cast wheels) for ideas.
In my first round of alterations to my GR, I got some of those LED bolts in amber (I think from JCWhitney?) and put them in the original Tempter badge holes. I just had them jumped into the running light wires under the seat. Really, any tank badge could be made to work fairly easily. If you wanted to get a more bubble shaped side cover though, a sheet of black ABS plastic with some different side covers snapped to it could be made to work as well. The black ABS would use the original frame / tank mounts, and a color matched side cover might look good.
Good ideas, gents. I'll definitely consider all options as I get time. Was thinking I could make a frame using the existing side panel attachment points and attach a new style side panel to the frame. The grab bar may go. It is already in bad shape since I had to cut a homemade sissybar off. It was made out of square aluminum bar stock welded to the grab bar with an H-D backpad attached. Cycle World, back in '83, reported good success in reshaping the seat by cutting the back down by an inch for a flatter look. I cut it off and started trying to sand the bar back to a good finish. Cycle World, back in '83, reported good success in reshaping the seat by cutting the back down by an inch for a flatter look.
Might I recommend the GS1000 Endurance seat from Airtech? I guarantee it fits and has the side panels already molded in! http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/hammer.htm
Looks rather familiar, Big Rich. Where have I seen that before? Would sure change the look the bike, but maybe not quite what I'm going for.
Yep, the one and the same. I've gotten myself onto a couple different forums now so I don't spend time on the GR specific one anymore. That, and I am down to one titled / running GR and there isn't much from the stock bike left. But Radian, keep the old wheels turning on your sidecover idea - I'm sure you'll come up with a good replacement. And any decent upholsterer can help with the seat. There is a ton of foam under that vinyl (except at the front edge of the step) so it should be easy to shape to what you want.
Thanks Pablo83! I looked for it yesterday after Big Rich mentioned it, but didn't spot it. Your link was very useful.
There certainly was on the one I sat on last year - and most of it as soft as a marshmallow. I sank almost all the way down to the seat pan. If your seat is like this, then you should also get some better foam and re-shape from that versus just re-shaping the OEM foam. You can get high-density closed-cell foam (doesn't absorb moisture) either from a distributor or from an exercise mat, open-cell foam, carpet padding, laminate floor underlayment - lots of options. See http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/ and http://www.sargentcycle.com/cspfu.htm for general guidance and this product - http://www.supracor.com/ as Spencer's uses it in their seat rebuilds.
Thanks, Zap. Some good info. Think I may need to invest in another seat pan so I don't mess my stock seat up. Not terribly confident I'll get it right the first time through. I know my history. :)
Got my new brake switch on and went for a ride. Lot of severe weather last night (tornado warnings, massive amounts of lightning and rain) and the payoff was a beautiful day today. Big fluffy clouds, temps in the low '70's. Bike is just running great. What a fun way to spend 90 minutes...just wandering wherever I wanted to go. No pictures today; this one was just for the sheer joy of riding an old bike I have been working on for 14 months to get to the "reliable" stage. Only thing I know of that needs fixed is the gas gauge. Quit working about a week ago and it can just wait. I want to ride for a change. That old parallel twin is just fun to ride. Easy turn in, lots of torque, upright riding stance. Check, check and check. Hope you had as much fun riding today as I did.
RR, you can always get this. I was going to graft it to my old seat pan. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812470
I used a Suzuki OEM 16-tooth sprocket from mid-80's dirt bike as per the advice below: "How can I reduce vibration at highway speeds? Exchange the factory 15 tooth countershaft sprocket with a 16 tooth (Suzuki part number 27511-37200). The last time I purchased one it cost about $16. Note that this sprocket was originally used on a mid-eighties Suzuki motocross model and is designed for #520 chain, rather than the GR650's standard #530 chain. That means it is slightly thinner than the original sprocket. My experience has shown no problems with excessive wear when used with the #530 chain. Since the sprocket is thinner than standard, you will need to add a washer between the sprocket and lock washer when installing. If you don't, the sprocket will remain loose on the countershaft splines even after you torque the sprocket nut. With the new 16/38 gearing, expect 4700 RPM at 65 MPH verses slightly over 5000 with the stock 15/38 sprockets - with no noticeable loss in performance or problems clutching off from a stop light. At 65-70 MPH, you will be below the point were engine vibration and valve train noise becomes an issue." http://tcmcstuff.tripod.com/GR650FAQ.htm Worked on my bike, but I think I paid about $6.00 more.
