May 3, 2013 I remember you, giant eucalyptus tree. You were huge when I was a kid here and it's comforting to see you haven't shrunk as I've gotten older Back there is Swedish House, my dorm from 3rd through 6th grade. It was wonderful to visit with Shekinah, another Swedish-Houser and we recalled all sorts of memories, such as playing on that huge hill, which doesn't seem that big now and playing capture-the-flag in the woods behind that have been cut down now and the crazy daily bus journey down and up from school... It's amazing how vivid the memories are from this part of my life and being able to come back reinforces these strong, old memories. It's been good to connect with old alumni, staff, my dorm-parent, my PE teacher, some ayyas (maids) who still remember me, the carpenter with whom I spent hours building things with wood, some of the cooks from the dining hall and the nurses at The Dish (dispensary). I gave a little talk on the Covered Courts in the evening, just before the Kodai Athletic Club handed out Field Day awards. I didn't want to encourage the kids to quit their job later in life, but just to follow their passion, put the effort in and it'll pay off
May 6, 2013 I reached the southern tip of India at Kanyakumari! It's all the way north from here to Kashmir I crossed into Kerala and had fun on the hilly roads with lots of twists and turns. The driving is crazy but nothing I haven't seen in other countries. It's all about anticipating whether that auto-rickshaw (tuk-tuk) is going to keep going straight or make a random u-turn. I can say that to ride in India, one needs a loud horn, good reflexes and a bucket of swear words. Use all liberally and it's good fun I rode past congested Kochi and met up with an old Kodai School friend, John Thomas, who's now a history professor. It's good to catch up and since he studied in Delhi, he's putting me in touch with contacts for points north.
Dayum, I am in Kanyakumari now. Couldn't have met either as dad is in hospital and am with him. Good luck on the long ride north!
May 7, 2013 Here's a GoPro video from my ride into Calicut yesterday. The driving is crazy on Kerala's busy roads but makes for fun riding if you can match the local pace <iframe width="800" height="450" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" src="http://in.lifestyle.yahoo.com/video/jammin-thru-india-day-7-055622376.html?format=embed&player_autoplay=false"></iframe>
May 8, 2013 A friendly stop by the Karnataka Police Force just outside Mangalore. I overtook their police van and a few minutes later, they were flashing their lights and waving me over. I thought, 'OK, here we go, first police stop in India...' but no worries, they were just curious and friendly and wanted to take some photos and then started telling about me to a passing journalist I had a good ride through northern Kerala and when not stuck behind trucks, the twisties were a thrill to ride. I reached Udipi and met up with the United Riders Udipi Bullet motorcycle club, having been connected by the Madras Bulls. The brotherhood here took fantastic care of me with tandoori chicken and McDowells Platinum Whiskey and it was good to share stories from the road
So, I'm thinking they paint lines on the roads for decoration. It was interesting seeing a 2, 3, 4, and at times 5 lane Calicut freeway. :eek1
It sure was. Good to touch base with 'home' every once in a while Oh man, we missed again. Hope your dad gets better soon. Thanks, I survived the South, now let's see the North Yeah, funny to think how much money they've wasted on those "Do not overtake" signs If there's a space on the road, someone's going to be there
May 8, 2013 I recorded my first stop by Indian police yesterday. No worries, all smiles and just curious <iframe width="800" height="450" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" src="http://in.lifestyle.yahoo.com/video/jammin-thru-india-day-8-062851914.html?format=embed&player_autoplay=false"></iframe>
May 8, 2013 I had a masala dosa in Udipi for breakfast this morning and it was super delicious with the potato filling, sambar and coconut chutney. They say the masala dosa originates from Udipi and this dosa did its ancestors proud
May 9, 2013 Oh, yeah! I've arrived in Goa Beautiful ride on small roads through old villages shrouded by coconut trees with the breeze from the ocean. Rode to Anjuna and found a small guest house right on the beach. The caretaker, Agnes, was telling me stories from before Goa got independence from the Portuguese. Anjuna is known for its trance parties and I enjoyed some chill ambient trance at a cliffside restaurant over fish curry and rice. A day off now...
May 10, 2013 Here's an interview I did for http://WheelsUnplugged.com by Navroze Contractor, who's an award-winning cinematographer and photographer and now writes for automotive magazines. The interview details how I got into motorcycles, how I got fleeced by Egyptian customs and why travel on two wheels http://www.wheelsunplugged.com/features/jay-kannaiyan-epic-ride-home/1548
May 10, 2013 A sleepy cat amongst the fruits in Chapora, probably eying some breakfast from the fish market across the road... I went for a nice walk in the morning with Sagar, an old teacher from Kodai School who's also staying with my classmate, Arjun's parents in nearby Vagator. We walked to the fishing pier and took a morning dip where the waters of the Chapora River flow into the Indian Ocean. After some fresh chikoo (zapota) juice, I enjoyed another day off in the company of sadhus. Baba Ramji has been educating me on the foundations of Hinduism with sidetracks to cover Siddhartha and Mahavira.
May 12, 2013 Sublime ride out of Goa into southern Maharashtra. Good roads, lite traffic and nice curves on the hilly NH-17. All the signs are in Hindi now; a sign that I'm in North India. Left the highway and got back to the coast near Ratnagiri and staying with the family that runs GaneshAgroTourism.com. It's a farm-house on a 40 acre Alphonso Mango farm with a hill-view of the ocean. I got in contact with them as my father supplies them with organic fertilizer. Enjoying the clear night sky here. I'm 16 degrees north and can see the Southern Cross and Polaris, the North Star. From here to the largest city in India tomorrow...
May 13, 2013 Got questions on traveling, motorcycling, photography, being a digital nomad, what it takes to get up and leave, how to sustain a long duration journey and more? Then join me for a Live Chat on Yahoo! India Travel on Monday, May 13th at 2:30 pm IST (9:00 am GMT). Ask or tweet your queries using the #JamminIndia hashtag. Click here for the facebook event.
Great reporting as usual Jay. I hope you will give serious thought to writing a series of Motorcycle adventure guide books. Not Ride Reports or a Novel, but a "Do This" "Don't do That" "Go Here" "Take This Road" guide for motorcycle travelers. Any interest in this at all? You've learned so much ... be nice to share that with other, future motorcycle travelers. I'd love to own a "Jay's Adventure India" book. You could do one for each continent you've traveled. With your good advice, calm approach and clear writing style ... and with your India book in hand, I might just have the confidence to tackle such a formidable ride. I've NEVER seen such a guide out there beyond Greg Frasier's books, which don't work all that well for me. I'd be first in line to buy one. Don't think I'm alone. I've read and reviewed dozens of guide books. Most are either for Back Packers, package tourists or High End short timers. Few for riders. Anyway, just an idea ... I know you've got lots on your plate, but perhaps it would interest you in future?
Hey Grifter, I've thought about that and let's see... I would need to travel all those places again and probably a bit more to be thorough, oh man, that's going to take years I definitely want to share all the tips that I've learned and the knowledge that others have shared with me with future travelers and I'll see how much gets put into my book about this journey.
May 13, 2013 I got to Bombay last night and nursed sanDRina with a leaking carburetor to Arunoday Singh's place in Juhu. He's an old Kodai School friend and after studying acting in the US and the UK, he's started his career as a Bollywood actor. sanDRina's carburetor started acting up in the last few days. Her float bowl was over-flowing and she was running very rich (too much fuel in the fuel-air mixture). I couldn't get her to idle at the stop lights through Bombay's traffic. Bharat from the Madras Bulls put me in touch with a local Bullet rider and he told me that Anthony (pictured) was the best bike mechanic in Bombay. Anthony stripped the carb down and found that the o-ring in the float needle valve was past its due date and was letting fuel flow past into the bowl. That little o-ring served me well over these past few years and it was sent to o-ring heaven A new o-ring was installed and voila, no more over-flowing float bowl but now sanDRina was running too lean at idle, since she was used to all that extra fuel coming in past the old o-ring, so Anthony put in a bigger pilot jet and now sanDRina's growling like a tiger Anthony also adjusted my loose shift lever with an interesting technique of widening the upper end of the bolt hole so that it would pinch tighter. I can see why he's revered by the bikers in Bombay. He comes from the Trichur district in Kerala and has been a mechanic here for 35 years, initially working on old British bikes and then due to a lack of parts, switched to working on Royal Enfield Bullets. Good to get greasy and meet the local mechanic
Jay, are you running a stock carb in SanDRina? Mine is giving me grief as well, and I was going to hit up thumpertalk and try to figure out where I should be looking to solve a fuel issue at 3/4 or more throttle it surges at times and may cut out when rolling off throttle. I can just imagine how that hits you in the gut as you look at how far you have to go with a misbehaving bike.