4 Questions: How long should KLR 650 clutch last? Serious Q. How long will clutch last if you do 10-12 wheelies on the 32 mile trek home after work everyday? Is clutch easy to replace? Serious Q. Does this manual(CDROM) look like a good deal? Serious Q. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Service-Parts-Manual-KLR650-84-06-KLR-650-600-500_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34238QQitemZ8067319344QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I have access to digital printing equipment, but, anyone could print one out on a printer, 2 sided etc. Some observances. If you have a 12 pack in your sack on the back, prolly best to open the first one over the sink. Oh yeah and Icehouse tastes really bad after having been shaken by wheelies and is warm after 32 miles and 10-12 wheelies. Just thought you would like to know.
I managed to cook mine at about 20k or so through abuse. I replaced it with an EBC kit. <----DON"T DO THIS. The springs are way too stiff. Stick with OEM. Thanks CA Stu
Adjust the cable with some slack and don't ride the clutch and keep good oil in it (clean-I am not starting an argument on type or brand). Wheelies aren't that hard on a clutch, feathering the clutch on the trail is. Use a cooler as a topcase.
Hey B12teuton I was going to post the same thing you said... I have never used the cluth to pop a whellie yet on my 640e. And even in third gear at 80km/h .
I got 60,000 out of mine! Doesn't realy matter how mant wheelies you do. Its more on oil changes and abuse of the clutch I have been running the ebc kit for about 14,000 miles now.. Works fine, still use 2 fingers on the clutch. But for some strange reason my left arm is larger than my right?:huh
I put in the EBC Dirt Racer clutch plates and springs. Lever effort is significantly more than OEM. I wish I would have stayed OEM on this item. I attributed this to the fact that the same kit is used for the KX 500. I've got springs for a 60+hp 2 stroke in my 36hp 4 stroke... Thanks CA Stu
I got the same kit. Hate the clutch pull. I have got a set of springs a friend gave me out of a zx9 or something. Says its a good alternitive spring for a kLR. Too lazy to install them though. That, and the girls like my "popeye" arm!
I've read conflicting reports on the EBC DRC clutch. Some say the springs are not the right size and the clutch will seize up when the engine warms up, is that true? I already bought the kit and am waiting to put it in my bike. I don't care if the clutch level is significantly harder to pull, as long as the springs that came with the clutch will work and it wont seize that's good enough for me.
I've had 4 KLR600/650's over the years. Refresh my memory...isn't the KLR clutch basically the same as the OEM Z1-900 roadbike from back in the day? Kawasaki is generally known for tough clutches during and after the development period of the KLR, and I don't think the KLR is outside this practice. I rode my KLR's like they were dirt bikes in many situations and fanned the clutch like crazy in sandy stream beds and steep climbs not really suited to the bike's design. The only clutch I had to replace was one of the KLR's that the carb float stuck while the bike was on the side stand. The crankcase and tranny oil filled up with gas. I went a mile before the spark plug fouled, and I discovered what was going on. The bike had no damage other than the clutch plates were swelled and useless due to their lengthy gas bath. I installed new friction plates, and the bike is still out there running around in the hands of a friend.
I have just over 50k miles on my bike and the clutch was just starting to slip. I'm replacing the friction plates, metal plates and springs.
Mine is over 41K...and has never seen motorcycle oil. Mobil Delvac 1300 15w40 & Mobil 1 15w50 automotive synthetic...needs a new clutch cable, though.
Now I'm getting really confused. It seems a lot of people are saying the EBC Dirt Racer Clutch won't work in an '08 KLR.
The stock clutch will last twice as long as plastic mountain dew bottles in your local landfill. if you dont drive like a dick
Last year at 45k miles on an 08 it began to slip. Took it out and measured it. The friction plates still had about 1/3 measurable wear thickness left. The stock springs, however, were close to min length. I believe that the spring length and their softness was the main contributor to the slipping at full throttle. One steel plate had a small purple spot that indicated some heat. I could have got away with just replacing the springs,but since it was open, I replaced them. Replaced them all with stock friction plates (kept the steel plates as they were nice and checked out flat and no indication of wear) and 'Cary's' suggested springs (Actually shorter than stock but thicker coils) from E Mike. No noticable extra level tension. It works great now.
My problem is I went ahead and bought a clutch kit from Bike Bandit that was listed for the KLR. I had the friction plates soaking in oil when I was reading up on the EBC DRC kit and found the conflicting reports.