Even with a 500lb rating you wouldn't trust it huh? That sucks. I want something inexpensive yet sturdy. Lol I know I know you get what you pay for. I'm sure my truck can handle 500 lbs. My 26' toy hauler has to have a heavier tongue weight than that. Samsung Galaxy S3
I ended up slicing the old piece to accomodate the new thicker gauge wires from the upgraded stator and slopped it up with black RTV gasket maker. Once I get her hooked up and running I'll see if the seals hold. Thanks for the tip!
I think he was referring to the hitch mounted on the car, not the carrier. There is usually two different weight measurements. One is tongue weight and one is hauling weight, not sure of the exact terms. All that matters is the tongue weight. I think anything that's decent can handle 1,000 lbs.
Your gonna want at least a class III hitch. you have to add the additional leverage to the weight of the bike because it is at least 12" from the actual hitch Class III Trailer Hitch Receivers: Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles 2" x 2" receiver hitch opening Rated up to 6,000 lbs <acronym class="tooltip" title="The weight of the trailer fully loaded in its actual towing condition">GTW</acronym> with 600 lbs <acronym class="tooltip" title="The downward force exerted on the hitch ball by the trailer coupler">TW</acronym> Allows for more gear to be carried or towed Works with all Class III accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter Ball mounts are sold separately. Will work with hitch balls with 1" diameter shank NOTE: Most manufacturers call any hitch with a 2" x 2" opening a Class III hitch It is not uncommon to see a 2" hitch rated at 3,500 lbs GTW called a Class III hitch Available in square and round tube designs. Class II Trailer Hitch Receivers: Designed for light-duty towing Are rated up to 3,500 lbs <acronym class="tooltip" title="The weight of the trailer fully loaded in its actual towing condition">GTW</acronym> and 350 lbs <acronym class="tooltip" title="The downward force exerted on the hitch ball by the trailer coupler">TW</acronym> 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver hitch opening Will work with Class I and Class II accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers Requires a Manufacturer-recommended, hitch specific drawbar or ball mount to tow a trailer A 1/2" pin must be used to secure the ball mount in place. Drawbars may be included with hitch or sold separately Available in square and round tube designs. Will work with hitch balls with 3/4" diameter shank
Anyone have experience disassembling the swingarm? Its already off the bike and the center collar etc are off. Having trouble with 1. Getting the Pivot Thrust Bushing off. Do I need a puller or something? And does it need pressed back in? 2. The needle bearing! Do the individual needles come off like they do in the Linkage? I know you need a puller and press to get the whole bearing unit out, but just trying to do a simple cleanup. HELPPP!!!
I did the carb mod a lil over a month ago and kept the stock jets in from the fcr 40mm. It ran fine but was pretty lean. Jus threw the FMF exhaust on and made a huge difference and seems to be running way better as my top end came to life. mind you I still haven't opened the air box nor even tweaked the carb. I'm at sea level so can someone chime in and give me an idea where I should proceed with this carb. It would be greatly appreciated
I use Cod liver oil. I can run my bike thru the deepest water crossings and never worry about water entering the engine. In fact it thrives with water in the engine. Sure about that?
I guess it changed its mind? <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/0tepf2z1cQE" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
Big deal. A big fat engine from a big fat company that took a big fat bail out. I have the mighty Ford Triton 5.4L SOHC three valve.
Lost compression. The cylinder is out of round. Going to put a spare motor in tomorrow. ^^ how many miles on the motor?
Thought I'd lighten up all the technical chat going on on this thread with a nice pic of my XR in the veld, where it belongs. [/IMG]
The needles are loose inside a sleeve (cage). The bushing and bearings are pressed in. You can remove these parts without a puller but probably will not be able to salvage the bearings. You can drive out the bushings and add grease to the bearings, but depending on year, and mileage you may find things dry and in need of replacing. The special tool is great but the job of replacing the bearings can be done without it.
