Oz/ Kiwi Ktm 690 Riders Thread

Been a bit busy trying to sort out my rear shock.

I've decided to try a bit of revalving myself for the first time. Idea is to swap a few shims around, fill with oil, pump the piston up to 200psi with compressed air. If it feels good, I'll get it nitrogen charged.

So I had to make an adaptor for a bicycle Presta valve as the nitrogen filling hole is too close to the petrol tank.



Fits nice and snug. Hope it doesn't leak



The lower shock bearing is prone to seizure. When this happens, the shock shaft wears the lower shaft bearing causing leakage.

These bearings are expensive from KTM. The aftermarket ones don't seem to be as wide as the genuine so I decided to help the original out with some lube instead.

The bearing is a spherical type and has a bronze liner.

The outer part is mild steel so was easily drillable



Then drilled a fine hole through the alloy clevis





The idea is shoot a shot of WD40 down there every so often and maybe plug it up with a bit of silicone each time.

I'd recommend the least that should be done is undoing the lower bolt every so often and try to get some WD behind the rubber washers

Nice work

Don't you find WD dries out too fast and doesn't lubricate?

you have gone that far, why not tap a thread & put a grease nipple in.

No, not really Cruz. It's not kerosine as some used to think. It's fish oil and we all know how slippery them critters are

Besides, the bronze is probably oil impregnated.

The WD is really to help prevent corrosion and get rid of moisture.

I thought about that Shaun but was thinking that the inner part of the bearing might need a channel to direct the grease which it doesn't have.

So figured WD would have a better chance of getting in there

On Sat when i was playing with the fuel pump, i loosened the top tank bolts slightly to make it easier for the tank to pivot upwards. This morning i noticed that the welded nut on the inside of the frame had spun. High quality welds....NOT.


Not a problem, as i wanted to get rid of the nuts anyway. I got off my lazy arse & fixed my lathe ( no need for the tank bolts thanks Mudguts ) i intend to machine off the thread of the original bolt, Redrill & tap an 8mm thread in the end & put a bolt through from the inside.
Back to the tank saga. Anyone fitting the Safari tank to a '13 model 690, through the instructions away. There is not one piece of hardware i have not modified. Top tank bracket now sits on top of seat locator not under it. Even after putting the bracket on top i had to slot the tank holes slots about 4mm further up, & put a 5mm alloy spacer between the tank & bracket. The lower rear bolt that goes through the engine, i took 5mm off the right hand side to bring the right side in a bit. The lower front brackets look nothing like the original as the whole tank needed to move to the left. I now have about 6mm clearance between tank & left fork instead of the fork hitting the tank on full lock. I had to slightly modify the temp sensor to allow the tank to move to the left.

Every thing is sitting pretty central at the moment.



Fitted filter between front & rear tank here.

Nice job !

I also had to slot the front tank mount but managed to keep it under the seat tab.

Funny you had to machine your tank mounts that go through the motor. I'm going to have to add washers to spread the tank so that it doesn't hit the front seat mounts.

I may regret machining that when i get my seat back from cumfy seats Aust. Everything is fixable. Now for the fairing.

I had another autoshutdown at the weekend, it was a very hot day and I was cruising about 90km when I had a couple of misfires which gradually increased until it autoshutdown.
Pulled over and swapped out my inline filter checked fuel pump running and fuel pressure, then pulled off the front right tank to get to the spark plug. Pulled the plug and checked for spark and all was OK, checked the coil connections then put the plug back in and it started first time. Put it all back together and it ran the rest of the day without a hitch.
Radiator water level was all good this time.
May have got a bit warm and shutdown due water temp or maybe a vapour lock :huh.
Need to get the codes read but figure I might as well get myself a cable and the computer program.
Anyone point me in the right direction, I have a laptop but no Ipad, so need the cable and whatever software works.
Andy

There's your problem right there

Sounds like fuel pump once again although you'd have to wonder if it has anything to do with that fuel filter you're running. It may get hot and fuel vaporises in there?

But it sounds like classic fuel pump failure to me otherwise the bike would be stopping at lights everytime the fan came on...imo

Brand spanker fuel pump just fitted and it was running fine and producing good pressure and the bike wouldn't start, it was only once cooled down that it started first go with no hesitation. I think the temp shutdown has a timer or something before it will allow restart. Would love to know more about the ECU logic in these things to finally understand whats going on. I reckon once we know that we will have cracked the code.
Andy

The manual shows an ambient air temp sensor, not sure if its used for fuel mixture, shutdown safety, or maybe both or other

G,day El Ponkin did the f1 light come on and flash a code when the bike shut down mine had a missfire that got gradually got worse f1 light then flashed a code saying the coil was the problem put new coil on now all good mine has similar kays as yours cheers Phill

No code flashed and no FI Light,
The ambient air sensor is in the airbox and puts an FI light on if the connector gets screwed up.

I had the FI flash and it was the ambient air temp sensor didn't affect the running of the motor made it home + 1 other ride
Found broken wires repaired them and all ok.

So what's the ambient air temp sensors job, is it to adjust fuel mixture accordingly ?

Can't see it being allowed to shut the motor down Andy.
What if you were overtaking a semi and it decided to shut down? What then eh? What then I ask...?

I'll post you my cable if you like but you're gonna have to look up Tune Ecu and download the programs yourself.

Should be a walk in the park for you. I'll gather up the links for you if you like.

Andy maybe make up a set of jumper leads from the injector and coil plug so you can check to see if there is power going to both of them next time the bike cuts out that way you can eliminate the ecu shutting the bike down if its still trying to activate the injector and coil.

Massive dick might be right (for a change ) with his vapour lock theory.

Going to get the OBD II and KTM Cable and I have already downloaded "tune ecu" program which can access ECU fault history as well as checking sensors.
So just have to wait for the cables to arrive and then hook in, should be interesting learning this stuff.
Andy