Tried several sized pullers but stator would not come off. Found out that a special threaded bolt pulling tool is required. ($19.99 on eBay) Pulled pistons and marked each....
From the look of the pictures the oil that is in the engine is oxidized, normal when things sit for years. You do need to have torn down, cleaned and renewed just to get the old gummy oil and gas mix out of there, and nice clean stuff. Oils now are much better, you will have nice long life as long as you ride it regular. Wait until you see the fork oil!!! And the wheel bearings, steering bearings, and swingarm bearings. Rod
Just use a metal pin and a bolt with threads matching the hole to pull that rotor. BMW tries to sell that crap for way more than it's worth too. When I bought my charging kit for my r90, it came with a small metal dowel and a standard bolt. All it does is push that dowel against the bottom of the hole while the bolt threads into the rotor and pushes against the dowel to pop the rotor off the cone of the crank. If you're broke, think like a broke man I know I always do!
Leaking crank seals allow air to be SUCKED in, leaning the air/fuel mixture. Catastrophic engine failure is the result.
Thanks x 1000 everyone for all the excellent information! It helps me more than you realize. Will try to make a bolt/pin to pull that rotor. Then put that $25 on a case of beer. Johnny Cash, you can ride anything I own....(I'm divorced).
My body/paint man had Dupont scan/shoot one of my side covers to come up with paint codes. One chrome, two blues, one clear, wait a week, apply decals, wait a day, and one more clear coat.
Bottom engine case was a bitch to clean. I used same rods/pistons, installing new rings and wrist pin circlips.