V649HP-Kawasaki's new gravel runner

I have relatives over in Fort Worth and after they've been in the UK for a couple of days I can more or less understand them. I think watching The Simpsons and Family Guy have really helped too.

A mate who went with me to Morocco a few years ago has done the Trans America Trail this year and his tales have really got me thinking. I've a trip planned for Morocco again in 2012 so the TAT may have to wait a year or so as I can't afford the divorce:eek1.

Do you know why divorces cost so much.......... because they're worth it.

I ain't religious but A f**king Men! I am the center of my universe.

ride gravel for as many miles as the recent trip, and then the total miles accumulated on your sprockets and chain, you know that you're going to need replacements. with a fresh O ring or X ring chain, 15,000 miles is easy for both on pavement, and it's not unusual to get in excess of 20,000 out of a set. these trips are different.

the culprit here is the long miles on gravel roads. toss in mud and calcium chloride, and you probably won't make it home on the chain you start with, sprockets might be toast too. lube three times a day, doesn't seem to make a difference.

old on top, new on bottom...



worn out rear...



worn out front...



i use the stock Versys/ER6 gearing on these builds, the best ratio for the combination of gravel and pavement that i run.

as for the chain, there's a little story there, and i'll mention it in the report.

While were talking shop.Do you know the Versys fork length from the axle bolt center to the top of the fork tube?I need a slightly larger front end for a trike build.

here ya go, although there may be better choices. nothing wrong with the Versys forks, but they're somewhat scarce on the used market.

Thanks for the measurement and info.I was modifying and running Katana 600/750 front ends.I am looking at other options that give me dual disc brakes up front,and something just a little longer than the stock GS5 stock forks.

Versys aluminum swingarm FOR SALE here

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=734909


Ninja build, street bike/track bike, paint or powdercoat for your custom Versys.

I picked up an R1 rear shock and a pair of DRZ forks on Ebay UK this week for £115 shipped (Less than $200).
The search for a Vstrom front wheel continues but I've a few other ideas for a single disc, cast front wheel so that I can run tubeless tyres-will know more by next weekend.
Once all the bits are here I will get modifying my Versys ready for my ride to Morocco next year

Thanks for all the info so far JD

you should have purchased the DL1000 wheel on EbayUS last week, sold for only $130 plus shipping, maybe $100 to ship to your door. less than 150GBP anyway for what the seller said was a straight wheel, no runout when checked on the wheel stand. i was surprised it sold so cheap.

i continue to think that the huge 49mm DRZ forks are a viable way to go with these builds. long travel, fully adjustable, durable, and you avoid the steering stop/clearance issues of other setups by using the Versys clamps. the suspension will serve you very well in Morocco. i did finally use all the travel in the forks, and the top of the low fender mount clicked on the underside of the bottom clamp, no damage. i was halfway over the bars when it happened.

the aluminum sleeves you need to fit the 49mm inners to the 52mm Versys lower clamp should be inexpensive to machine, only $25 here in the States including material. the sleeves are slotted and aligned with the clamp to insure concentric clamping pressure, set in place with Loctite cylinder sleeve formula. don't forget the lip on the top side of the sleeve, it makes the sleeve self aligning, and trims out the top. the top clamp gets a full circumference .5mm +/- shim less 5mm in length which should be roll formed to about the 50mm diameter prior to assembly, easy to do. my 49mm fork tubes project 20-25mm above the top clamp, and handling is excellent. you can adjust this as you prefer.

this photo is from yesterday, riding the V649HP on what we call Jeep trails in the States, little graded gravel, mostly rutted rocky two track, plenty of mud and small water crossings. the DRZ/R1 combo is what makes this bike go.



the high ground clearance on the rat kept the bike above the rocks, never touched the gravel guard. standard OEM gearing is fine for this, i never got out of second gear for miles.

make sure to do all the rest of the things that make the bike so survivable. SWMotech guards, hand guards, folding shifter, folding brake lever, and so on. i'm very glad i fitted the big Fastway SS footrests also. these can be found cheap in the US on the used market, don't know about UK.

the only damage to the bike yesterday was the loss of the right driving light. you see, in the States we this peculiar specie of tree that will unexpectedly jump out in the road and run slam into your bike. i'm going to mail the light back to ADVMonster and claim manufacturing defect, so don't let the cat outta the bag about that tree. luckily, the ADVMonster dude won't see this post, he's too busy building his new rat bike.

we're going to need some photos of that Morocco bound UK rat when you finish the build, that's the ADV rule.

any questions, just ask.

Cheers JD.

I did contact the US seller of the DL wheel asking for a rough shipping price but never got a reply so didn't bother bidding-I've got another couple of options but just need to check bearing/spindle/forks etc before taking the plunge.
I'm busy buying parts and doing research before I start stripping the beast down and I've a mate in our club that is a machinist for a race engine builder so may have to call in a few favours. There will be a few photo's taken during the build although I may delete the ones of me throwing spanners down the workshop Lol.

Here it is on a very wet weekends riding


Just did a few cosmetic mods prior to my first adventure rideout as I wasn't convinced how suitable the bike was for the job I have for it. Now I'm happy with the base bike I will mod it to suit.


17" Avon Distanzias become a muddy hoop and are not upto the job


And when going downhill on leaf strewn damp muddy rocks it was only going to end one way


I love the way the bike handles motorways, is light to pick up and has a peach of an engine. Get the suspension and tyres sorted for offroad and it'll be just the job.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/bar/2627290529.html

Another 650R crash bike for sale cheap. Sounds like he is willing to talk. Starting price is $1200.

Have fun and do a write up!

your new setup is going to do much better on those roads. remember, the bike's going to be tall.

don't forget the photos.

i'd like to overhear how a salesman presents the ER6/Ninja 650R as a "beginner bike" to some 18yo dweeb. "it's 70 horses sonny, but it's a safe 70 horses".

so many of these bikes are low mile wrecks. one i bought had been down each of the first three times it was ridden. then it got parked, the guy was afraid of it.

good for guys looking for project bikes or parts, not so good for all those rookie riders.

OK, thanks JD!
It's a bit, uhmm, different though. Is it possible to REDUCE the travel of these forks down to say 4.5-5', by using longer spacers? (and obviously stiffer springs to suit the weight).
Sounds like just the thing for a tall old UJM.......GSXR showa;s are 3" too short.

Nothing to do with 649HPs, sorry!

I just picked up the parts to start my build...

YZ450 Front end, new oil pan to mod, R1 shock. Just need to find a rear wheel.

Can't wait to start on this build!

you can reduce travel, but if you're only looking for 5", a different fork might be a better choice.

so...don't wait, you have enough parts to work with now. fitting the rear wheel is a separate activity.

regarding the R1 shock, the stainless bushing on the needle bearing end is very hard and needs to be bored at a shop. the other end has a bushing that can be drilled, but extra care is required to make sure that a uniform wall thickness is maintained. you can ruin that bushing quite easily. the best way is to construct a temporary fixture to hold the shock in the proper position while the bushing ID is drilled. use cutting oil, you don't want heat.

Thanks for the advice. Luckily I have access to a shop with a mill/lathe/welding equipment. I checked yesterday, no 12mm reamer but maybe a 12mm drillbit could be used if done carefully. I plan to start this weekend. I should have the shock, forks, and oil pan by then. The rear wheel will have to wait until I find something a bit more budget friendly. $600 for a wheel is hard to stomache, though I need to remember I'll have 2 wheels, fairings, forks, and a rear shock to sell from the Ninja.

put a mic or digital caliper on the bolt, it's not a true 12mm. if you have a good index set, you'll find the correct bit. be careful.