Pensacola area riders

Hey shout out to Vic when are you leading another group thru Blackwater? I wanna do that again and bring college boy (my 21 year old son) that's here for the summer

One of my all time faves! Like a roller coaster with rocks. I'll never forget catching Mark Hillburn (same class) who was three rows in front of me before the first check.

Crazy Jim Cook and his buddies decided it would be fun to route us across a rock face about 40 miles in. I watched Mark fall down the hill and thought, OK, he's done. Bastard got back up and diced with me till the end. Still beat him though.

Glad you had fun Vic.

I left you a vm.

Hey GDUB;
Before you spend your hard earned $$$ on a "revalve", etc., make sure you have got your sag set right and the click adjustments front and rear set to factory specs., compression and rebound. It is highly unlikely you need a "revalve". The click adjustments are very sensitive on the newer USD forks. I have made great improvement to my 2012 Husaberg forks by carefully tracking adjustments. Just start moving in the desired direction-- probably less compression and less rebound damping. If you reduce compression damping, decrease rebound damping the same, to start. Especially if there is a section where you particularly notice harshness, take a break, make the adjustment, and ride that section again.

If that doesn't make the forks smooth (plush) enough for you, and it still has the stock fork seals, upgrade to the best fork seals you can find (like SKF) to eliminate stiction. It would probably be worthwhile to confirm your weight is matched to the fork springs, especially if you bought the bike used, but if the suspension is set up correctly, the forks should work pretty well for riders between 155 and 200 lbs. without a lot of adjustment.

I did have to change my fork springs--I bought my bike used-- it had heavier springs than I needed for my weight--165 lbs. R&R did the spring install, but I do all my own suspension work now...

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks Skid. I set sag before I ever rode the bike and also had it resprong for my weight. I tried the 3 stock KTM settings. Thinking maybe I should have left the stock springs. To me the bike just does not corner well. Thought about getting a ride lower link and backing the clickers way back and to see what happens. Harsh ness at the track seemed fine but at hard labor creek it was rough. I know that place is rough just thought/hoped it would soak up the bumps/roots better.
Hey do you do your own suspension work do you have the vacuum pump gauge thing that KTM says you need for doing WP forks. Or is that BS anyways just wondering. Thanks again.

So about three weeks ago - based on recommendation of Glen at KTM World- I sent my 500 cylinder and head to Millennium Technologies in WI. I have called them several times to see how they are progressing. So far they are still waiting on a "valve".... which I can get overnight BTW.

I should have used someone closer. I believe Mad Max had better luck with his guy in GA. Anyway... that's the story there. Im a little pissed. AND they are not cheap...

We will see how this works out.

Yep

Yep, have all the tools to perform all the maintenance/rebuild for those forks. Sounds like we had the same complaint--harshness over roots/small sharp bumps, etc. It was great on the big hits. Small to medium stutter bumps at speed were aggravating and tiring. Roots were physically painful to hit.

I have seen situations where the technician, not being as familiar with the bladder forks, doesn't put any air in them. While they WILL operate w/out air, it is not designed to work that way. That is one of the reasons I bought the tools. I can do simple stuff like changing oil, or adjusting air in the bladder, fork seals, etc.

Once you decide where you want to take the bike for a repair/tune up/rebuild, then ALL the adjustments after that are a logistics/time issue loading and delivering the bike back to the shop-- that part I didn't like. Plus, I can make minor or experimental changes myself on a rainy day or evening w/ very little downtime.

Not saying you need to buy tools and do your own work, but I would definitely make sure you have done what you can before taking it to the local shop. It will make it much easier for the repair facility, and easier for you to dial it in when you get it back. My experience was that for these forks, it wasn't just bolt on and go... I was ready to trade mine for the older style which are easier to adjust but not as good overall for aggressive riding, until I decided I should man up and fix the damn things!

If you wanna borrow the hypodermic needle to refill/adjust the bladder, LMK. I use my mountain bike shock/fork air pump with the KTM needle and it works great...

PS, since you are down that way near PapaWheelie (Steve), if you get a chance to ride with him, he has a pretty good handle on dialing in those forks... Might could give you some advice on adjustments...

Man Vic I kind of fill some of the pain. I bought a complete light kit from Doctor Endro back on Apr 18th and still have not seen my lights. They would not e-mail me back or call me back. I had to threaten to can the credit card people to protest payment and write bad reviews (which I probably will still do) to get them to call me back. They blamed it on the back ordered parts and every thing else. Still no reason not to call or email me. They also said they now have everything. I told them the have until the end of the week before I call the cc people. So I guess we will see.
For everyone else I would not order form doctor endro!!!!

Just order direct from sicass...

Yea after I had ordered OG told me about Sicass!! We well see what happens if I would have ordered from Sicass sure I would have had my lights weeks ago. FML!!

Sicass is pretty good. The people there are good and if you have a problem they will take care of it. Pricey but worth it. I have bought dualsport wiring harness kits for all my bikes from them.

Sicass +1, Pricey but worth it.

Just a heads up for the local folks. I'm thinning the fleet a little and will have one of my DR350's up for sale in the next few days.

Still debating which one to keep, but I'm leaning toward selling the '94 electric start model (this is the one I rode at Perry Mountain in April) and keeping the '93 kicker.

Price on either one will be $1500 and it's not a fire sale, so I'm not in a rush. It looks like a busy week at work, but I'll put an ad together for the flea market in a few days and get some pix up.....

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Hey Skid. R&R said when I had the springs installed I also should have had them revale/shim it for my weight as well. They said more than likely that's my problem they also said that they have had a lot of Newer KTMs come in. The price is $350 for Forks and Shock. Thinking I might do it What do u think?

That is a good price for both. I don't particularly like working on shocks. Plus, you had mentioned that you weren't happy with the cornering, so that could very likely be shock set up--which can make the front end push or tuck depending on the problem. Go for it. --Definitely consider changing the fork seals if they are stock while it is in there... Bob at R&R is good people and will make sure it is right.

Sweet thanks. Now maybe I can go fast like u in the turns and switch backs.
I also have been looking at some anti vibe stuff ie fasst bars and I saw OG's BRP set up, looks pretty good with the steering damper. I have read and talked to some many people who rave about the Fasst bars but the are not cheap. R&R said they could get the BRP set up with a Scotts for a really good price.

Also if anyone orders from BTOsports.com. thankyou will also get you 10% off not sure how long it will last I have used it a few times this year and i just used it about an hour ago.

No one is as fast as me in the turns and switch backs! Until I crash. Usually preceded by a filmworthy skiiiiiiid.

Fast bars are pretty cool--will reduce fatigue and I have seen them on some pretty stellar riders bikes. Why don't I have them???

I opted for the flex grip on the clutch side--recommended by Bob at R&R, but, like the steering dampener, the flexxbar is the topline solution to hitting gnarly stuff and not absorbing the punishment. But, I like being punished. Just ask OG. (Bring a ball gag and at least a 6' real leather whip...)

Insane...
Uhmmm not on my bucket list..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRqqsNYpbLM