Yet another 950 high fender brake line question...

I came across something interesting on this that I haven't seen anyone comment on...there is another brakeline available, from the 950 SMR, 6251301200030. It seems to come with a mounted transfer tube already, which would be a great. Anyone tried this, or know the lengths of the line segments?

Remember . . . You need some slack for when you whack open the throttle which takes the weight off the front forks etc. Plus, you can have a bigger loop below (bottom of the fork) going to the brake caliper. The loop is no higher than the speedo cable:

Just saw this... I have an 06 950s and found that the stock low fender cross-over line is a very good length for the lower hoses. I made a tube like Pyndon and then ordered a custom upper hose.

Find someone who converted their system some other way and get the used line for cheap.

From the mobile...

Measuring the running distance from the reservoir to caliper, including enough distance for full suspension travel, I figured that 45-46" would be the perfect length brake line with out bunching up by the gauges. This was including my 1.75" Rox risers and the Renthal RC High bars.

If you choose to go with the right side brake line set up- I found 3 different part numbers for the ADV front brake lines. The lengths range from 1320mm(52") to 1249mm (49") In 2004 the parts fiche lists two different brake line lengths: 1284mm ( 50") for the Adv S model and 1249mm (49") for the Adv model. I just ordered the 49" to try so I will report back how this fits, and if my measurements were accurate.

This is the part# for the 49" OEM brake line:
60013012100 BRAKE HOSE FRONT ADV. 03 97.89 15% 83.21 $83.21

Keep us posted!!!

Thanks for the info...btw, where did you find fiche with the lengths listed? I've been looking all over, and only found a few that said how long they were.

Hi mcmann,

I was looking at your ultra cut down low fender posts from a few months back - I was thinking of doing a hybrid setup like that until I got all the parts figured out. Did it work OK for you? I would think having a small part of the fender going over the tire would shave off really thick mud, but not be wide enough to jam the tire. Was that the case?

Found most of it on KTM950.info, and on Munn Racing's website. Yeah not all model years have the length listed in the parts description.

This is what I have summed up: (Prices listed are MSRP that I found on Munnracing.com)before their discount.

60013012100: 1249mm(49") Brake Hose Front ADV 03 $97.89
60013012000: 1284mm(50") Brake Hose Front ADV-S 03 $92.99
60013012200:50" Brake Hose Front ADV S 05 $89.79 NOTE: (length not listed in my 06 ADV-S USA parts manual. I measured from banjo fitting to banjo fitting and get 50")
6014201000: 1320mm Brake Hose Left 06 $74.39
6011301200033: This is the new style line(s) on the 2011+ R models Brake Hose from 2011 ADV-R $136.39

As the years progress, the prices of each subsequent brake line part code goes down. Looking at the part number succession makes me wonder what the difference is between to 03 S hose & the 05-S- if they are both the same length, what changed? Is the diameter of the hose larger, different vendor ???

No issues so far . . . No different than running a fork brace (2.5" wide on top). It provides additional support for the lower fork guards . . . Which my brake lines are mounted to. You definitely need to eliminate the cross-over brake line:

Only 2.5" OEM fender remaining:


I have not ran into the real sticky mud yet . . .

OK thanks...I decided to go ahead and give it a shot. In case others are debating the same thing, I'll post some pictures here; It's an expensive piece of plastic to take a dremel to so maybe this will help some people decide.

So for me the reason for doing this is just the mud issue: the very first part of this video clip shows my front wheel locking up in some not too deep but sticky mud. Rest of the vid doesn't really relate, but it does show where we ride, so you can see there is lots of mud.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ZHMnwZtqTMo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Now, I don't really like the look of the high fender on this bike, but it's a necessity. Also I like keeping body work stock, or at least looking like it came from the factory, if you know what I mean. So with the fork guards not fitting quite right, no lockdown clip on the left guard, things like that made me think about the hybrid. The main problem I've had with the hybrid is the cut off low fender doesn't look quite right, at least not with the high fender I chose, which is smaller than most people use. The high/low set up looks great on the Supermoto, and so I wanted to get that look. After trying many things on Photoshop, I think I hit on a good way to cut it. By leaving a very small forward lip on the fender, cut at the same angle as the high fender, it seems to give it a designed-this-way look.





This trim will cut about half the mud packing area, and next I'm going to trim that back (as I've seen others do) to reduce this further. Then the plan is to actually cut slots in the part of the low fender that is left, to allow any mud that does get in there to exit.

It probably makes more sense to take it off altogether, but I like the fact that I can keep the brake lines and fork guards stock, all you have to buy is the fender, and I do like the way it looks. I'll post more shots as I trim more away.

And thanks for the info ABuck99; I agree the Munn site seems the most complete. And I'll probably eventually do the proper high fender anyway in the long run. I've got two low fenders - the one I'm cutting up is my busted one.

Quick update - took the new setup out down the same road as before, it had dried up some but the short low fender seems to work well, no build up. But doing this has made me realize I really don't want that cross-over brake line so close to the tire. I'm going to get the second line but keep the stock low fender as a fork guard, probably wind up with a setup like yours mcmann, cutting the rear off as well.

In case anyone is interested, it rained again so I made another trip to the same stretch of mud that locked up the front wheel before to see how it performed.



No problems this time, the space between the tire and fender stayed clear...



...and the upper fender worked well to catch the spraying mud from the shortened lower. You can see how the mud collected up at the front of the top fender; even though it is short, this was enough to keep any from coming back on me while riding.



So I'd say this setup works pretty well, and certainly is easy and cheap.

I know the brake line question is about a 950. what I did on my 990 left the brake lines unchanged. Would that approach work on a 950? I can switch between high/low fender setup very easily (although I have only done that once in the last 3 years).

Yeah, that bracket for the fork guards would work on the 950 as well; the spacing of the bolt holes is a bit different than on the 990 I think, but since you are drilling them yourself anyway it doesn't matter.

It's not this kind of mud that'll lock it up..

IMO with this setup you have the weakness from both the high and low fender - as you still have the cross-over line + easy to lock up (with a kind of mud) low fender and the reduced airflow (if this counts anyway) with the high fender. Ofcourse if you're just only after the looks and you're happy with it..

Thank you for the incredibly polite yet honest opinion Sumi! I have in fact been thinking this is just a bad idea after all - as you say the worst of both worlds. Gotta commit...and will order the parts shortly. ABuck99, would like to know how the 49" line works out!