Well, it's not terrible, just seeping, Luckily. No puddles under the bike or anything like that. I'll bookmark this link and will buy the seals if it becomes a major issue. For now it seems "ok" since I tightened it up a bit and changed to a thicker oil. Gonna do the baby powder trick tomorrow, too! Appreciate everyone's help and quick answers.
Hi all! The dealer looked in the service manual and Suzuki says to replace the cylinder if it is scratched or otherwise damaged , so that tells me it is a plated cylinder . So , do I reuse the rings or install new rings and hope they seat? The used rings have almost no wear and are at the "tight" spot of the specs . My intuition tells me just to put it back the way it was , not sure the new rings will seat against an un-honed cylinder wall. Goon310......I would not use 20-50 in this motor unless I was in Death Valley . 10-40 gives better flow through the engine , especially the bearings .
Well, it's been running fine with 20-50 in it. This isn't a new bike, and it has been rode hard. I won't get into a big argument about oil, everyone has their prefference. But I don't really believe in a true conventiol 10-40, most 10-40 has thinner in it to get it that way. We shall see.
Well I need someone to tell me the trick of getting the feeler gauges in those inspection holes to check the valves. Thanks, joe and also how many marks are on the flywheel? I only see 1
Disregard my last posts. I guess there are 2 marks. A lot easier to adjust/check when the your actually at tdc. I also learned that the flywheel is wet. On all my other bikes this meant the crank seal needed replacement. Someday I'll catch up with technology. Thanks. Joe
One mark, but you can see it on compression (when the valves are closed) OR during overlap. So it should be "actually at tdc ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE". As for the feeler gauges, try to find ones with narrower, tapered ends, and bend the one you need about 45 degrees, 3/4" from the end. It will slip in much easier that way. It's nesrly impossible to do with the standard width feeler gauges.
So I did it again and now I have rattlesnakes in the motor instead of squirrels. Tapping like crazy. Any insight here? Pic of the flywheel mark? I might just pull the whole cover tomorrow so I can see the cam and cam sprocket while I rotate the motor. Lobes down and piston up marks on flwheel and cover aligning should be tdc. Think I need a can of patience before I touch another wrench. Thanks. Joe
I don't have a picture of the mark, but I think it's just a hashmark on the flywheel. Watch the motion of the valves as you slowly turn the motor counter-clockwise. Shortly after the intake valve closes, the hashmark should come around. Make sure the spark plug is out so the engine's easy to turn.
Much better. Squirrels are back. Took a bent feeler to get in there for me feel comfortable with the settings. Thanks again for the help. Ive got one more question. What is your favorite online parts store and why? Cheap is good but service and getting the proper parts is more important to me.
I usually just order from Bikebandit. Shopping around a little probably could get you lower prices, but I'm lazy.
There is a Suzuki OEM part number (12140-19B10-050) for a 0.5mm oversize piston/ring set, which leads me to believe that the cylinder is machinable, and the dealer is full of the well-known article. Probably has a cylinder on the shelf he wants to get rid of...
Hi all ! Talked to Suzuki USA and they don't know if the cylinder is serviceable or not . Called a different local dealer and they don't know either . Hard to believe I'm the first person to ever put a set of rings in a DR200 . If it is iron I would hone and use new rings , if not I will just put it back together . Being they make a .5 mm larger piston makes me believe it's iron , looking at it I see no sleeve and it looks all aluminum . My gaskets won't be here until tomorrow so if I can't find out for sure I will just reassemble it .
They do know, but did not realize it... Just check here: http://www.suzukicycles.com/Product%20Lines/Cycles/Products/DR200SE/2013/DR200SE.aspx#Features For this statement: <table id="FeaturesTable" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="" width="30px"> </td><td class="FeaturesData">Suzuki Composite Electrochemical Material (SCEM)-plated cylinder for durability, lightweight and superior heat transfer </td></tr></tbody></table>
Was trying to learn something here myself and came across this... All of the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers caution against using any type of hone in a plated cylinder. Its not that its an impossible task, its just because its a difficult thing to do correctly. Here are some basic rules for honing light scratches, burnt oil, and minor aluminum scuffs on nickel-plated cylinders. 1) Use a ball-hone with a diameter that is 10% smaller than the cylinder bore size, 240-360 grit, and made of aluminum-oxide material. 2) Never ever use a three-shoe stone hone because they will chip the port edges. 3) Coat the cylinder and ball-hone in oil before honing the cylinder. 4) Chuck the ball-hone in a drill and put the hone in the cylinder completely before turning. 5) Run the drill at a slow speed and stroke the hone back and forth in the bore for about ten strokes. Cylinders that are nickel-plated are very hard (83 Rockwell C Scale) so you cant remove any metal with a ball-hone. I usually hone a cylinder every time I change the piston assembly. Ball-honing polishes down high spots and sharp port edges without damaging the plating. Ball-honing will insure that the piston and rings have a smooth cross-hatched surface to mate with. Kawasaki cylinders use a different bore material and plating method. The tungsten material is very thin and vulnerable. For those cylinders I suggest using a piece of Scotch-Brite to hand strip the cylinder bore of burnt oil. Whenever you hone a cylinder you should clean the cylinder in mineral spirits solvent and then hot soapy water. Spray the cylinder with penetrating oil to displace the water left over from cleaning. Post #8 of this thread on Dirtriders "Suzuki cylinders...to hone or not to hone" http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=63608
Don't think 10% UNDERSIZE is viable; don't know who Eric (on Dirtrider) is, and don't accept his authority on this subject, although the sheep over there seem to quote him like a God. OK, here's the deal, from http://www.aera.org/engine-professional/nikasil®-and-alusil/: Don't understand why Suzuki offers a 0.5mm (.020") oversize, unless they think a re-coating of the cylinder wall is viable (and a vendor accessible). Sounds like big bucks to me, likely a lot more than a new cylinder, so draw your own conclusion. My DR is for sale, BTW, if anyone in Thailand has a hankering. Edit: this: http://kustom-kraft.com/NEWNIKASIL.html is a link to a complete re-bore/re-coat/new piston service for small motors (like ours). Go figure...
Hi all ! US Suzuki called me back this morning and said the cylinder is not serviceable . So, would you guys put new rings in and hope they seat or just use the old ones? The old ones are at .006" for the top ring and .007" for the second one . Still don't have my service book so don't really know if they are in spec . Thx again you guys for all the great info.......brad
