X-Challenge - Accessories/Farkles

Found a bash plate, thanks

I worked on some other bike projects but got back to the tank 2 weeks ago. I got the siphon to work eventually, but I had to seal the keyhole of the gas cap. It seems air was leaking in there an breaking the syphon. At times there is also a small gas weep around the gas cap, indicating my gas tank stays full and therefore siphoning. It looks like I may need a new gas cap, but BMW wants nearly a $100 for one, Anybody found an alternate replacement. I don't care if it is locking or not.

KP

Touratech sell a replacement but it is no cheaper.

You can take the cap apart: Put it upside down on a bench, push the inner piece down against the spring and slide out the retaining pin. This will release the lock barrel. You can then replace the O ring that seals the barrel.

The weep around the gas cap will also cause a problem. You need to source a small piece of 2mm thick Viton rubber sheet. I googled it, found a supplier and emailed them, they were able to send me an offcut. Taking measurements from the original seal I drew 2 circles with a pair of compasses and cut it out with a Stanley knife. The supplier I used wont be much good as I'm in the UK.

Good luck

I saw that Touratech cap, but, maybe it is just me, that $160 seemed just a tad outrageous. I had the barrel apart, but did not notice the oring. I will do that again and get a replacement o-ring. I will see if I can hunt down some viton sheeting. Thanks!!

Update: found that sneaky little oring and got a new one. Also ordered some viton sheet. Since we live in the great country with its super high tech measurement system I could not find a metric thickness except in a huge quantity / price. But I did find a 6" x 6" x 3/32" sheet, just a bit thicker at 2.38 mm, but that may make the seal a little tighter.

I did find out the syphoning / sealing had worked reasonably well. When I took the gas cap off a lot of gasoline came out, it was filled well above the fill level. Good deal!

Probably just a dumb question, is the xmoto seat interchangeable with an xchallenge seat?

It is... When I bought mine, it had the XMoto seat installed... Same pan, different color cover...

Anyone use one?

National Deflector DX, removable. Works great for the highway.

Look what I received this morning

Replace Touratech 20mm riser bolts with stainless steel "hardware/bolt store" ones, they tend to rust and bend very easily.

Thanks for the tip!

Nice!

Como hiciste para importar todo eso? Hasta donde yo sabia es un quilombo pasar cosas for aduana ...

Any details you could share?
What material?
Where did you find the fuel cap and weld in nipple for it?
Dim's?

Thank you.
Sean

No seras oficial de Aduana o de AFIP no??

Trabajo para una compañía que representa acá en Arg a una empresa americana con headquarters en Houston.

Básicamente compro en TT USA, me lo hago enviar a Houston y cuando voy para allá o viene alguien para acá entra en equipaje de mano, que podes entrar hasta USD 300 legalmente.

En este caso, me encontre en Peru con una persona que venia de USA, me lo entrego y yo lo pase.

Con las cosas voluminosas es mas complicado.. pero tampoco es imposible, sabes como es el tema aca.. jejej


lo mismo hice con esto::d

bueno es legal asi que no importa si aduana ve esto je. Si, se como es por eso preguntaba ... aca es mas simple

I am selling a Remus slip on exhaust.

details
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892686

make me an offer - I am not going to use it and it will just sit in my basement and gather dust.

I also have pics -

Jeff

I think I finally got the syphoning to the TT tank to work reliably. The vent flange was not sealing reliably enough despite a new gasket. Sometimes it sealed and sometimes it did not. I was hesitant to tighten the screws too much, since they go in the plastic of the tank. Well, it seems some of these screw holes were pretty much stripped. I added some black RTV to the gasket surface and now things finally seem to work fine. Anybody find some oversize screws of the same type to use?

I added a clear fuel filter in the line to the XC tank. I can see if the syphon is working.

Checklist:
- TT tank (bought it used from Norway) works, riding range now acceptable
- TT bash plate installed (bought it used from Norway)
- Hotrod Welding rack installed
- Wolfman Rocky Mountain bags bought and installed and used for my first weekend ride.
- Horn replaced and it quit working, need to go back to Napa
- Fan-On LED installed
- Air shock replaced with Hyperpro
- Hyperliights installed
- Toolkit assembled
- Small Seahorse box installed on rack for around town riding
- SparkBright Voltage LED monitor installed, cheap way to check your charging system
- Got my riding spare parts
- Installed center stand (SW-Motech), not so easy to get it on the center - stand when the bike is loaded.
- MRA windshield
- Heated gear wiring installed

Left to do:
- Seat Concepts seat redo
- I have been looking at a vaportech, anybody used it on an XC with std dashboard?
- I need to install some other front fender. Last weekends ride with some mild mud crudded up parts of the radiator quickly.

The bike is just about ready for some long trips this summer and for another big one next summer, still working on my 2014 options.

KP

received my TT tank today




90% installed, still got to route the fuel lines to the vent on the stock tank..










I think i'll add some vinyl graphics to the tank.. it looks too white.. I'm thinking something like this (sorry for my lack of pic editing skills)

I recommend replacing the fuel line that comes with the tank with something better. I have only had my tank for about 12 mo this and am having to replace the line because of cracking already.

Just my 2 cents.

Well I've had a slight issue with my BMW GX. Basically, long story short I ordered some switchgear from Highwaydirtbikes. Sadly I'm living in Cambodia and they went missing in the post to which they very decently refunded my money but cut off contact. I can hardly blame them for not wanting to deal with me again but it's a problem. It's a problem because I own several other bikes and have had to scavenge the switchgear. I have used a chinese kill-switch. Wow, just wow. It's wired backwards and the switches fell out in one day. So I got to to thinking and my dad is a retired engineer and he's building me a whole new set of switches. Let me give a rough description. On the left you have a maximum of 50mm width and on the right, about 30mm if you removed both pods. So we've come up with 25mm pods, I'll use two on one side and one on the other. Straight off, I'm changing the way my indicators work. I prefer the BMW push button so I'm using a hybrid of that and the Harley Davidson method, ie, click left to go left and push the same button again to cancel. Each pod has two switches, I'm sourcing a hazardproof IP67 switch, water and dustproof and I'm adding a custom top clamp for the remaining functions. So, my dad is planning to offer these for sale if they work out well enough. They'll fit any bikes with a 22mm bar, be turned by hand from solid billet aluminum and fitted with either push to make or latching switches in black, red or blue. They can be used to add switches or replace the horrible standard gear with something pretty. The clamps will have space for 3 more of the same type of switch, ideal for adding spotlights or interrupters. Here are some preliminary drawings, the prototypes should be fitted in about 4 weeks.
Cheers. PM me if you're interested.