Hmm, well, I thought that if synthetic oil didn't have any friction modifiers in it then it wouldn't muck with the clutch. I suppose I have it wrong. I have been using mobil one 15-50 on my XR400 for years, no clutch slipping... But that's the only multiplate wet clutch I've had in a while, aside from the V-Strom I used to own. I am well behind the curve when it comes to new oil and what the Dakar requires. I've got to read up. thanks for the information. I'd hate to have to dump the oil again (and make yet another messy spot on the drive) just because of a shitey oil decision.
There is quite a bit of misinformation out there re oils and misundertanding especially discoloration of detergent oils with some thinking it is signs of over heating, some oil pro's will explain the Semi Synthetics handle excess heat better than full synthetic Re the GS there were some owners who could not solve clutch slip even with Semi Synth and moved to Rekluse, BMW obviously knew of the problem and changed the dual spark to increase pressure per plate. Here in Oz we have extreme heat and my 02 has been through 46c + for extended periods Castrol ActiveX 4T as used by BMW has taken it without problems so the only thing full synthetic would do is eat $
Well, I'm not an oil pro, but I don't think there's much debate the semi-synthetic or synthetic oils take heat better than straight dino oil. I spent a couple of nights years ago reading all I ever want to read about oils and two occasions in which I sent oil, one dino and one synthetic, in for analysis. I don't plan on doing that ever again, either. But I did read your like where it explains that my early Dakar is only rated for semi-synthetic oil and I will follow instructions. I bought the oil for the last oil change at the BMW shop-- if I read your post correctly this is rebranded Castrol ActiveX 4T? I think I can find that down at my local. My mate rides an 1150 one year off from mine and dumps his (Mobil One, again) oil every 5,000km. I know that oil is good for a lot longer than that. Yeah, it looks dirty. I tried to explain to him that he's replacing good oil with more good oil that just looks prettier. But he has the extra dosh and the time so I let him be happy and only take the piss out of him once in a while. Thanks for the info. If it's Castrol ActiveX 4T you recommend I'll certainly use it.
Yes it is Castrol ActiveX 4T, Have spoken with the Castrol Techo's here about it in detail a while back and they confirmed it One of the other Dakar dual spark owners here is also a pro BM car tech and he uses it in his, he cant see a good reason to spend more $
the questions never end haha,I'm intalling new ngk irridiums and they came without the little screw in cap at the top of the plug,I've never installed a plug like that into my dirt bike or car,should I get the little screw on caps? jut to be clear the new plugs only have a threaded end at the top.thx guys
Not sure what you mean by screw on cap, but I just stuck the wire on like normal and never had a problem.
You received an incomplete package for each plug. Those thread are supposed to hold the tip which does thread down onto it, and then the plug wire clips down onto that part. Are you sure the little caps weren't in the paper package? Too late now, I imagine.
I use the same style of plugs in my Dakar, Mazda pickup, and Toyota pickup and Ive never once seen those caps you speak of. All of them have that threaded post but have never seen anything to go over them. Other than the wires themselves.
Well, I retract part of my statement then, lol. Only experienced with street bike and auto plugs, and the only time I saw those threads bare was when I was trying to back one out with my fingers and realized they actually would come off.
So, finally got around to changing the oil on my Dakar, bought it last year and not sure when it was last done. Probably should have done it earlier, I know. Two unpleasant surprises. One, the oil drain plug is tight, way beyond spec, and it had already been slightly rounded off by the PO. Ain't coming out, no sir. At this point I could probably pound a smaller socket on it and reef it out, I guess, unless somebody has a better idea. And I need a new drain plug, 'cause that one ain't going back in. Dammit. Two, air filter was in sorta sideways and half folded. No telling how long it's been that way, or how much dust the engine (37K) has eaten. Worse, the filter was soaked in oil. Not just a little bit. Airbox drain may have been a little plugged; I soaked up a fair amount of oil with a couple paper towels and then blew out the hose, now goop comes out. I'd have to say things have been that way for a while looking at the residue around the vent line at the rear of the airbox. SO: 1) Is there anything better than the standard BMW drain plug? I know they're magnetic. 2) Where the hell did all the oil come from? This has me worried. Bike is not using oil appreciably. No smoke and runs great. 3) Unless the PO jammed the filter in sideways, what could cause it to suck in like that? Being oil soaked? How did that much oil get to the air filter? I guess, for now, I'll pump the tank out and put a new oil filter in it. 1911fan
The later version OEM sump plug has a hex socket. So you use an allenkey to remove it. You will have to buy a new one any way. I get the impression you are not the tinkering type.
More a time thing than anything else; used to wrench for money. Just annoyed that someone reefed on a plug with a specific torque setting. Good torque wrenches aren't that expensive. I have four, or five? Six? 1911fan
2 and 3.... oil gets in the air box if the bike is laid over it's a pretty well known issue with the F650gs'... I know it took me about 15 min of cleaning to get all the oil out when I changed the air filter and found the same thing (oil soaked filter sitting in the box)... I'm gonna check the filter again this next weekend when I change the oil, and I know the bike has been over twice (both quick drops but on the left side so oil shouldn't have gotten in the air box.. and see how it's holding up. good luck to ya
Swap the stock filter out for a good foam/oil filter like the Unifilter, paper filters are useless in high dust situations
I put in a Dimple magnetic plug (M24X2.0X14) in my 2003. From here: http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/bmwmotorcycles.php. So far so good.
No way that was from excessive internal pressure...the o ring would have failed before the metal. Even cast Al would have a tensile strength (about 21000 psi) much greater than an oil pump can produce, unless there was some pre existing condition. To me it looks like the cap flange wasn't flush to the case when the bolt was tightened, or to say it another way the cap wasn't properly seated.
How much force are you using? You should hear and maybe feel the occasional rub from the pads as the front wheel spins. There are other factors that affect free spin like bearing seals and condition.