Western Wander 2013 - (May/June) 4 weeks, 8 states.

Last Sept, 2012, I did my first Western Wander. A solo tour of the a few Western states I’ve never visited. I had about 3 weeks travel a 3,600 mile loop through 7 states. I had posted this trip in a thread on the Barf Forum: http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=408540
This time, I’ll also share it on AdvRider too.

This time, I’ve got 4 weeks and will start with the Overland Expo in Flagstaff, AZ. Here’s my loose plan, starting from San Francisco. The Triumph Tiger is just about ready to go. Hitting the road in 1 week!

I was planning to pack minimally and travel lightly. But this still had to include a laptop, tablet, phone and 3 cameras. The purple journal would have sufficed back in the 20th Century. Ha.



My ever-changing setup: this time, I added the panniers and lost the rolled-duffel. I can carry a little bit more stuff and I’ll be able to leave the bike locked and secure.



This weekend, I took some time to install:

1. Hand guards
2. Larger foot for the kickstand
3. Replacement Air filter
4. Happy Trails panniers



The bike is ready for the ride out tomorrow. Since we are leaving a day early, we’ll target Big Pine on the other side the Sierras. Then ride through Death Valley the next day.

I was wondering where you were going. Now I'm even more jealous.

Looks like a great trip ! What is your ETA in Flagstaff ? I will be in that area later this week; if you are looking for interesting sites/campsites, I'm always looking for a reason to ride...

I'll be there on Thurs afternoon.
I'm attending/camping at the Overland Expo.

http://www.rawhyde-offroad.com/azadv.html
http://www.overlandexpo.com/

I'm riding down from Vegas on Saturday morning. Planning on 93 and 66 to Flagstaff. Visit any interesting bit along the way.

Cool...are you doing the full weekend at the Expo ? Are you already in Flag ? I live in Phx but looking to get out of the heat...

Yup, I'm at the Expo from Thu - Sun. I'm not sure what on the itinerary at the expo is just yet. Afterwards, I have 3 weeks of riding anywhere. PM me, I was gonna do a little exploring of AZ before going to NM.

Day 1 - Riding Out

We were able to leave a day early, so we bailed on I5 and Barstow and decided to go through Yosemite and Tioga Pass. This would let up go through Death Valley the next day.



Hwy 120, Yosemite



Then with the altitude came the snow.



Then came the rain, sleet, hail, thunder over Tioga Pass.



On 395, rain and thunder gave way to high winds.



Nice start to a trip!

Day 2 Wed. Going Thru Death Valley

I woke up early in Big Pine, to go for a run down Hwy 168 to the Death Valley Rd junction. I just want to see what the road looked like, for future reference.

On this trip, we took Hwy 190 from Lone Pine all the way through. It was 104F, but as long as you where moving it wasn't bad. We stopped at Stovepipe Wells for lunch before continuing on through Furnace Creek to Nevada-side.

This travel day went by without any events like the first day. We planned our stop at the Fiesta in Henderson, thinking that it was far enough out of town, but we still caught the evening commute traffic.

A road ride should always be proper ended poolside.
















.

Day 3 - Take Route 66

We left the hotel in Henderson at 10am and headed for Kingman, on Hwy 93. If you want wind, you got wind. What is it about Lake Powell and that Hoover Dam that produces these crazy gusts? Well, they gave you adequate warning signs to stir up your anxieties. But in the end, there was only one gust that significantly pushed my bike sideways.

The cool thing about rallies is that you can meet people on the road headed the to the same destination. Sometimes on the road, you just wave. Sometimes at a stop, you get a chance to meet and talk. At Kingman, we meet Kurt, Butch and Jeremy and a couple of trucks in tow.

They let us join them on their ride, they knew of good place to stop for lunch on Route 66. This circumvented a bit of I-40 and we got to eat at Delgadillo’s in Seligman. Cool place and now I can saw I’ve been on Route 66.

After lunch, it was back to I-40 to Flagstaff and a short ride to Mormon Lake. Entered Overland Expo and we set up camp around the open arena that will be the off-road motorcycle training area. RawHyde provided dinner, then it was sleepy-time.

Day 4, 5 - RawHyde Intro to Dirt Training

I didn’t plan this trip well. My friend, Henry suggested it to me and I said yes, but I didn’t sign up for the RawHyde Level 1: Intro to Dirt Class. I was just gonna tag along for the expo then ride on my Western Wander after the weekend.

But clarity stuck on my morning jog along Mormon Lake. Out of all the organized rides and free classes, I actually wanted to take the formal Level 1 - Two day Intro to Dirt class. Heck, I may need some of these skills on my 4 week jaunt around the West. I needed it last year!

Stephanie at breakfast was able to fit me in at the last moment, bring the class to 16 students for 4 instructors. That’s square!

I made a good choice. I spent my time Friday and Saturday, in class, practicing all the drills for off-pavement riding. Getting to control my bike with clutch and brakes. Learned to intentionally skid the rear tire and balance the bike while standing on the pegs. Learned techniques foreign to my Triumph Daytona 675 street style. :). The classes ended with a ride down some forest logging trails that were conveniently in the area.

The class was great. The students in the class formed a sense of team as we learned, rode and ate together. It’s was a cool collective experience. After finishing the class, I felt my level of anxiety about off-pavement replaced with a small bit of confidence and eagerness. Now to practice these skills and then maybe next year hit their level 2 training.

The other part of the Expo was the 4-wheel part. After class, I was able to browse the rest of the Expo. Some of those stuff was nuts, but there were some camping/survival product that was applicable to motorcycle adventuring. Got a solar charger from Goal Zero and some apparel that ironically that was based in San Francisco. I never knew what was in my own city.

Day 6 - Sunday, the Expo wraps up

The Expo was wrapping up and Henry took off after breakfast for home. This was now the beginning of my Western Wander. I had just spent 2 great days with other motorcyclists, got some training and a new Klim Badlands jacket! The gravity from the Klim tent was just too great, thanks Mark. Now began my solo trip.

My attention turned to my pre-ride issue, my old Scorpion Trail front tire. I had tried to get a Heidenau front to match the rear before I left on this trip, but couldn’t get the tire in time. I had plenty on the old front to get me here and had hoped to source one at the Expo.

Scott from GoAZ was right there with my solution, a Heidenau front 19”, instock and GoAZ service was open 7 days a week! Motorcycle service on a Monday! My journey would have to start with a quick visit to Phoenix, then I would be ready for adventure.

Setting up camp always seemed to go faster than the breakdown. This was a new configuration for me with the new panniers and camping equipment. This would get faster with experience and when I jettisoned some dead weight I had packed.

I rode back up to Flagstaff, then made the turn on Hwy 17 toward Phoenix. I left after 1pm so, I made it to Camp Verde. Actually, I was tired and I have an unwritten policy against riding at dusk or night. Hotel and laundry was the recipe for this late day.

Day 7 - GoAZ

Phoenix turned out to be a pleasant detour, GoAZ is this 3 building/showroom supermall for motorcycles. It’s the motorcycle emporium that Go Daddy built. There’s Triumph, Ducati, KTM, BMW, etc dealerships in a blocksize complex. Scott gave me a tour as the service guys were able to squeeze my bike in for that new front tire and an oil change.

There was the showrooms, service area, test track and garage that storage new uncrate motos and an armada of used ones. This place was like the “Mall of America” of motorcycles. And it was great that they serviced my bike by 1pm and I was able to start my wander with confidence in a fresh tire. Thanks GoAZ!

From Scottsdale, I headed North-east on Hwy 87. Even at this point, my itinerary was fluid. I took advice to camp at Canyon De Chelly at the the NE corner of Arizona. This scraped my plans for El Morro in New Mexico. But still left the Petrified Forest on the agenda.

Since I left in the afternoon for Scottsdale, I chose Payson as a good inbetween point to Canyon De Chelly. I found a mostly vacant campsite and made camp for the night. I had the Moon and a campfire, my friends for the evening.

Nice!

Day 8 - Petrified Forest National Monument

I fueled up in Holbrook. They had their Route 66 plumage on full display. That’s cool, I dig the Kitschy-Americana. Nostalgia for an era I never experienced first hand, but who doesn’t enjoy a giant dinosaur monument in the parking lot? I’ll have to do another trip where I travel the length of Route 66.

Less than an hour away was Petrified Forest NP. This was gonna be a drive experience, I entered from the South entrance and got back on I-40 at the North entrance. Only a quick viewing at the visitor center and the rest of the park I experienced at a 30 mph pace. No hiking for close examination. The scenery itself was spectacular. I was destined for Canyon De Chelly and didn’t want to arrive too late in the day.

North on 191 is the Navajo Nation and the straightest road I’ve ever ridden. It rolled in elevation, thank goodness! Not the most exciting ride. Not much to stop for and no Verizon signal either. But I respected the speed limit and eventually got to my destination.

Canyon De Chelly is a national park, but it’s in partnership with the Indians. People actually live in the Canyon floor and closed to traffic. But you can have a guide tour from a local that will take you into the canyon. The park was free and the spacious campground was just $20 for an RV size spot.

It was nice and cool in the covering of Cottonwood trees. It was sparse with people too, maybe because it was Tuesday? I rode along the South Rim and took a few pictures, before I settled into camp for a lazy evening. Quiet.

This thread has a Tiger. I'm in.

Day 9 - 4 Corners

At this point, I wanted to slow things down and start staying in a spot for more than just a day; start spending some time of the bike. But I felt another compulsion to leave Arizona, I’ve been in the State for about a week.

I took 191 North to hook up with Hwy 160 to get to 4 Corners then eventually Mesa Verde National Park. I was vacillating between visit Shiprock first or not. “Let’s see how the day progresses.”

On a hand visitor’s guide to the Navajo Nation, they had printed an Indian Hwy 35 that shortcutted 191 to 160. “Hmmm, let’s take that it’s a Highway and printed on this map!”
On a poorly marked turnoff, I took that road. A signed warned “Unpaved after 7 miles” :)
Great I thought:
1. I can use some of the skills I’ve just learned.
2. It’s early enough in the day if something happens
3. They call it a highway; it’s probably just dirt and unpaved, I can handle that
4. I’m up for a little adventure







At point B on the Google map, the pavement ended. I was coasting along fine. The road was bumpy but not bad enough, that I wasn’t cruising along in 2nd gear. I felt good for several miles as I passed by the occasional ranch/house. I was riding on my pegs like I had trained in class. Then I hit my first patch of sand. I maintained my throttle and let the handle bar weave back and forth. Uncomfortable but not bad.

Then I crested a turn into a downward wash. I saw that this was deeper and longer patch then the one I went through before. I applied the same technique of keeping up the throttle and gingerly steering the bike. But I didn’t know what path was shallower or deeper. The bike on its own slowly veered to the left. Then in slow motion, toppled into the sand.



No harm, but a little bend to the clutch lever. I switched off the ignition, removed my gloves and helmet and assessed the situation:

1. I’m fine, the bike looks fine
2. I had to remove some gear for the rear seat to lift the bike
3. Lift the bike with my legs
4. There’s a house nearby, I could ask for help if needed
5. How many of these sand washes can I expect?

I removed the bags for the rear, lifted the bike. Power walked it down to the bare patch. Then walked back to the gear and walked that back down. Then I placed the gear back on the bike and person. I drank some water then proceeded down the road. Until the next crest and wash, this time, I was determine to ride it through but came up with the same result.



I repeated the same processes as last time: remove, lift, walk, replace, drink. When a truck was come down the same wash. I flagged him down to ask about the road and how many more sand washes to expect. He said not many once I pass the blue Community house and take a left at the next 4 way intersection. That should lead me on the under construction road to Hwy 160. He said to follow him for a far as he was going and watch the path he takes through. He said even cars had trouble with the sand.

Thanks Jimmy! But my trouble are deeper, I have no training in the sand! I noted to myself, next class: riding in sand! :) I followed him until he needed to turn off. He reassured me the directions and waved good bye!

I made it a little farther and I could see the blue community house he was talking about, so the left turn off wasn’t far and I was gonna be outta here soon. Not quite there, I suffered my third fall in a sand wash! This time, I can feel it closer to Noon and I was getting a lot more tired. I repeated my now well rehearsed routine: gear off, bike lift with legs, power walk, replace gear and outta water! I’m sucking on my water line and nothing...

But not far was the blue Community House, so I rode over and carried an empty canteen over. I waved to some ladies sitting at a bench, then explained my situation. They were so nice and filled my canteen and said to take as much time as I need in the shade. They also confirmed Jimmy’s directions, 2 miles to the 4 way intersection and the under construction road.



I took my time, spoke with the locals and got my strength and spirit back. I never felt that the situation was close to danger with the proximity of houses and people around. But I did question how I got myself into a situation where I was tackling challenges above my skill level and doing it alone. I did have my Spot on! sup



After my rest, the ride out to Hwy 160 was fine and uneventful. Just a bumpy unpaved hard dirt road. I like bumpy unpaved hard dirt roads. :) Now it was Mission: 4 Corners. It was a short uneventful ride there. And my attention now turned to “Fry Bread.” I’ve only heard about it, but now I’ve had a taste. It lived up to its legend. Tasty!







Indian Hwy 35 had taken it out on me, plus why did I have to run 4 miles up and back on the Canyon De Chelly rim road this morning?! I sought a hotel room in town and will leave Mesa Verde for the next day. My answer was the Aneth Hotel in Cortez! Ran by a nice couple, the room costed me a bargain, $40.

Looks like a great time!

Enjoy your ride! Don't skip Arches National Park in Moab! I'd take Hwy 28 up from Moab along the Colorado then West on I-70. Adds a little mileage but you get a lot more!