I looked for threads re this, but having not located any, here goes the question: I changed my 990A oil yesterday for the first time. Everything went routinely until filling the oil tank. It's supposed to take 3L, but at about 2.5L the tank overflowed and was totally full. I realize the engine takes some of it, but even after running it for a few seconds (20?) the level in the tank didn't go down much. Is there a better process for adding the oil so it doesn't overflow like that? S
The whole bike should take 3L, not the oil tank only. That's why they say in the (for example users) manual to put 2.5liters of oil into the oil tank, run the bike until up to operating temp. (4bars) then adjust oil level until the level reaches the max mark on the dipstick (approx. 0.5 liters).
Who reads instruction manuals? Good to know it can be run with only 2L in. That was what I was afraid to do. Thanks.
Behold: The Wal-Mart Funnel: It wedges in place, no muss, no fuss and about $50 cheaper than the drain hose set up. I don't get why so many want to make this really complicated...
I'm not sure 2L would be enough.. But the oil tank has a capacity of approx. 2.5-2.7l and the sump has another approx. 0.5 liters. So when you put 2.5 liter in the oil tank and run the engine up to 4 bars, about ~0.5 liter of the oil from the oil tank will "go" in the sump. That's why you have to add another 0.5l after, to get the level up to the MAX mark on the dipstick, and have about 3L in the whole system. But you can't add 3L of oil into the OIL tank itself - in one step, as normaly if the engine is not running it won't drain into the sump and the capacity of the OIL tank is only about 2.5-2.7L, so it will overflow -> that's why you have to run the engine for a while, to transfer some oil from the tank to the sump.
Check out the form a funnel. A little spendy, but really cool. Basically a sheet of flexible lead sealed in Nitrile rubber. Reading on their website suggests that they now make it out of aluminum. I think I got it from Napa. http://www.formafunnel.com/
I remove the large aluminium piece that the tank, sumpguard and engine bars bolt to. Then the oil drops vertical into my drain bowl. Undo the two screws for the regulator and tie it aside when the screen is cleaned, a few dribbles on the regulator bracket are soon wiped up...... or let the oil dribble on the regulator and connectors to help offset corrosion
Funnel doesn't work as easy if you have tank guards. I installed quick valve ( for about 20$ shipped). I found coupon online. Just changed oil yesterday and it took about 10 minutes to completely drain. here is guide http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange Garage/Oil Change/Quick Drain Oil Valve/Quick drain oil valve.html
I did just that the first time I did an oil change- then the drain bolt promptly slipped out of my fingers and into the funnel, making the perfect stopper. Messiest oil change I've ever done. Then the wind kicked up so nothing would drip into the pan :eek1 Next time will be better!
But yes, like the others have said. Follow the manual, and all will be ok. I just changed my oil myself for the first time yesterday. My only snag was filling up the oil to max while I had the bike on the side stand...
I use aluminum foil. You can find it at pretty much any grocery or convenience store on the planet. Also works good for keeping things clean when you drain the screens and the oil filter cavity.
PRetty sure. Drained oil tank, drained sump (crankcase), removed/replaced replacable filter, cleaned screen on brake side of engine. Is there any other oil lurking anywhere else?
Some in the clutch basket if you really wanted to get all the old stuff out (a bunch of other spots as well if you wanted to get really picky) I usually add 2 liters, run it then add another half liter. Seems to always bring mine to full on the dipstick.
That's what I should have done, and will do next time. I filled the new filter before inserting in place of the old one. Took about 200 mls. Then, I poured about 2.5L in the tank when it overflowed, alot. I ran it until heated up and the level is right at max. So, 2L after buttoning it up, run it for a while til heated, then top her off. No more mess. Thanks.
After the last change, I installed the Scotts stainless filter. Added about 3 liters, same as always. It read full on the screw in stick, after running some miles it read over, so I removed some. Then it read low, so I added some. This continues on. Is it the Scotts filter, or is it something else?
Don't forget the oil screen in the tank. You won't get more oil, but you may see some flakes of metal, paint, gasket goo, etc. I clean this tank screen every oil change in the first 10k miles, then only when it's valve adjustment time, or once every 10k miles. Lot's of scary stuff in the first couple of oil changes.