How'd I miss this one ??? :huh This is the first I've heard of the powder-coated FPC ................
I had thought the higher voltage was tied to the new P/N, but ......... I switched to beer at about 4pm ........... don't count on me for anything other than a grin ...
Another unannounced little "improvement" over the original. Sorry for the hijack but all's fair when it comes to Spandau's hijinks with parts. I'll start a thread with my "stalling problem solved" experience.
dood, a cottage industry has sprung up around the fuel pump controller issue which first appeared in the 1200GS.. inmate burnszilla (among others) makes and sells a fuel pump controller bypass cable so when it craps out, you can plug that cable in, and power it off the accessory socket and ride on... pour more sugar in my kool-aid please, it needs it!
You are a sucker if you pay for a Burns cable and the suggested heavy duty battery pigtail. Take a look at the stock wiring, it handles the current fine and is by no means thick or heavy duty, at all. First, the stock wiring is easily spliced into to make a bypass that will work with your ignition, the Burns cable does not, you have to unplug it to stop the pump. Second, with your old controller you can build your own bypass cable for a future spare. One supplier is hardly a "cottage industry", it is only one supplier. Koolaid won't get you home. Using a good bypass workaround will get you home. Take a look at how many controllers have failed. The old silver colored ones. Learn the bypass or send money. Your choice.
There's more than one person making that bypass cable.. I've seen at least 2 others. For people who don't have the time or the ability to make their own, it's a good option. I never bought one.. I just bought a Japanese bike instead I got tired of trying to keep up with the latest issues, I just want to ride a reliable bike that supposedly has "no character". My kool-aid's gone sour.
Ok, I hear you and understand the "character" bit. I haven' t seen other cable offerings, but it proves the old saying about there being a sucker born ever minute and two to take him.
I was fortunate enough to find a "donor" FPC from which to swipe the plug, and have made my own bypass cable that goes from the gerbing jack at the side of my seat into the fuel pump. The new news to me was that BMW had finally come up with a re-designed FPC .... well if not re-designed, at least one that doesn't have that crappy raw aluminum finish that shows burn marks so easily ....
Thanks Wayne, I'm anxiously awaiting my Mosfet RR's arrival. For the last year I've been charging at about 13.1-12.9 at 5000 RPM. Idle seems to charge around 13.3 I've been wanting to add aux lights but reluctant because of that. Hopefully now with a fully operation charging system I can breathe easy. J
go a head and add your aux lights now. It will make no difference to your existing rr or the stator. the nature of BMWs design is that the stator generates 100% of the power it is able all the time. (why it gets so hot) and the RR shunts the power not needed to ground. It appears that the newer version shunts at a hight voltage than earlier one. It is not clear to me that this helps or hurt stator over heating. (unknown internal RR design switching/shunting on voltage or more sophisticate voltage/current sense is unknown to me)
Does anyone know the power output of Rick's or Electrosport's stators? Or any other reason to prefer one over the other? I have enough heated gear that a few extra Watts wouldn't hurt.
Ages ago someone asked re identifying connectors and I could not find them in catalogues I had Today I found a catalogue of all Bosch connectors <cite>www.mecs.nl/documentatie/Connectors 2007-2008.pdf Looks like it has everything including the BMS </cite>
The Electrosport design was (according to Electrosport) done with modifications to specifically address the faults in the OEM design - allowing theirs to run cooler. I have no reason to think they are lying about it, but I've not seen or tested their units, so can't say for sure. All l can say is that I feed them the details on the faults of the OEM design and they were appreciative. I can't comment on Rick's design as I don't know anything about it..........
Under the heading of answers were in the obvious place and I didnt find it before, they have a web site for connectors http://www.bosch-connectors.com Still laughing at how obvious it is and that it did not come up in searches previously
Thanks, JR. To answer my own question: I got in touch with both Rick's and Electrosport. Rick's reports that their stator is a straight OEM replacement, with no expectation of higher output or durability. Electrosport claims 15% higher output (they downplay this, but to me it sounds like a big deal -- one more piece of heated gear!) and that their version runs cooler than OEM due to higher-quality copper.
Lets face it Ricks and Electrosport make what I would call an emergency back up stator. The quaity is not acceptable for long term satisfaction for our BMW F800s. If the stator does not have a high temp epoxy dip it will not last. The main reason we need an epoxy is to control the vibrating stresses induced into the stator from the magnetic field which leads to premature wire breaks. But the epoxy also needs to be able to with stand the 220 degrees that the BMW stator gets up to due to poor cooling from the engine oil in this engine compartment.