Will try and soak the parts in WD40, or something like that, then strip most of the chromed parts of the paint. Would like to hear more about the electrolysis, is it something that you have tried?
yeah, I've been using electrolysis for years, I love it. if you have a bit of patience, here is a write-up on the procedure that goes into a little of technical detail of what is happening- it is focused on tool restoration, but you can ignore that, http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php basically you need a battery charger, a large plastic tub, some washing soda (bath salts, sodium carbonate), some scrap steel, and you are ready to go. Gotta run now (time to cook dinner), but feel free ask questions if you want.
The paint doesn't need to be removed... so long as you don't mind the paint being removed Just chuck it in there. I actually use it deliberately to help remove paint on things I want to repaint. It won't removed it all, but it does pretty well on some paints. what I'm saying is that the process has the tendency to remove paint, just as it can sometimes remove a bit of chrome. Now it is not as simple as this- if the chrome or paint is in great condition and there is no rust pitting or damage then I have found it is unlikely to be removed (but you woulndn't want to bank on it). I'll send you another link by PM.
Electroplating is cool but all the chemical stuff you need, a good company here in northern Germany is OTR Oberflächentechnik Gmbh not too far away from you, http://www.otr-gmbh.de. Normal electroplating is cheap, (Zinc plating and then colred in blue = silver, yellow or black costs about 1,50 a kg of screws and bolts without tax! Maximum load is 31 kg! Not worth the hassle and the extra cost you will have to get rid of the chemical stuff again. Chroming is something different, the plated surfaces have to be perfect, then they will be cleaned again, then a layer of copper and then first a layer of chrome after the treatment follows the polishing, therefor very expensive. If you give the guys of OTR any parts with paint they will charge you extra! The only part I would always rechrome are stanchions if they are bend, show corrosion and are not available as spares anymore. But you don't have any on your model. Align and hardchrome the stanchions is about three times as expensive an normal chrome, cost per fork stanchion pair around 220,00 without tax in Germany http://www.wissinghartchrom.de, in technical matter worth the money. As already stated I personal would first clean up every part, get rid of any technical issue and then reassamble the bike, I think this will show best result for this type of motorcycle.
If you want it to be the most looked at bike any time you stop, DO NOT TOUCH IT!!!!!!!!!!! Fix the mechanicals but leave the outside alone. Set it next to a 20,000 euro bike and everyone will be looking at your ride. Great Bike!!!!!!!!!!!!.....Al
Wie schon viele gesagt haben "laB die MZ wie sie ist". Mechanisch bring sie auf SchuB und dann hab spaB mit ihr. Einer der Insassen hier hat recht, wenn deine MZ neben einer neuen Maschiene steht wird die neue Maschiene kaum auffallen. Mechanisch auf SchuB bringen, mit WD-40 reinigen und einmal im Monat nachpolieren mit WD-40. Auserdem, mit der MZ wirst du die "wilden" Weiber finden nicht die altaeglichen!
I am not going to do anything major if that is what you got the impression of :) But the rearshocks are actually from the front, so it sits higher, which again makes the chain rub on the engine. I want to correct that. Also, it's funny to try new stuff. My priorities is ofcourse to get it running good, then a centerstand and then new tyres before I go to the vehicle inspection.
Die mechanischen Probleme muessen natuerlich als erstes repariert werden. Wenn TUeV bei euch so streng ist als wie er in Deutschland war, dann muB der Ofen natuerlich total in SchuB sein. Auserdem, die Federung ist so ziemlich das Wichtigste nach dem Motor. Du darfst nicht vergessen das dieser Ofen nicht mehr gebaut wird. Also auf gut Deutsch, der Wert geht rauf. Jetzt sind die Preise sehr tief aber in 10 zu 20 Jahren wird die MZ einen Haufen wert sein. Deine MZ errinert mich and manche Triumph Motorraeder aus den spaeten 50ziger Jahren. Die hatten auch so Verkleidungen und waren haeslich. Zur der Zeit konte man sie fuer fast Nichts kaufen. Heute, bringen sie ueber $20,000 rein. Viel spaB mit deinem Fund!!
Great bike,please leave the Patina. The headlight doesn't turn with the front wheel,right? I'd like to see how that steering works & a picture of the speedometer gauge. The ladies seem to love the ES as well.
Sweet! I'd just steel wool the chrome then clear-coat it. Maybe hi-temp on the mufflers. My first dirt bike was a 125cc DKW(deek). Be aware that leading link front-ends favor high-sides.
HAHA my fiance thought it was and i quote *ADORABLE its like a bulldog. its so cute and ugly i just want to give it a good home and a hug*
Oh, MY! Now that is well......odd. I had a MZ 125SM and it was stellar looking, one of the most beautiful bikes ever. I do love the ODD looks of that one as well! Tell me, did the one you trade look like that too? I'd LOVE to have a running rider like that! Here's my MZ. Just a tad different looking!
naa, the old es/2's only go into a slight steady wobble if pushed hard... as you're familiar with the es, you know the score... definitely have a look at the swing arm axles and make sure they're well oiled as long as you can still disassemble them. also the magnesium thingy holding the front together corrodes like mad from the inside. possibly you can swop the wrong (longer) shocks for the correct rear items... unfortunately it won't be easy to find a rear light with the fitting rubbermanifold. i guess the people at mz-forum.com can offer help here. good luck and godspeed, max +:) btw: anyone in britain has a superelastic-chassis stacked in a forgotten corner???