DR650SE Index Topic #12- ENGINE/CHAINS & SPROCKETS

Regarding the verticle 'axle' for the clutch, here, or whatever it is that the arm teeth engage with and the arm bolts to, I installed mine ... "wrong" ("?") where the clutch handle wouldn't spring back.

I was really dreading taking the cover off again (already fileld it with good oil, etc.), but after disconneting the clutch cable / arm and foling with the axle a bit, then hooking the arm back up - I now had a fully working clutch handle.

So... is it made to be installed in nearly any rotational placement, but then to engage the splines inside the cover after a rotation or so?

Nope, turn it anticlockwise with your fingers and slip the arm on then.

I love English, spoken elsewhere.

effort to boost my post count

stock piston with dished top:


JE 10.5:1 "high compression" flat top piston:


kit:


kit available from Procycle, Keintech, and other sources. Not all "kits" are put together the same (which and type of gaskets that are included).

I was asked to get a weight on the engine. Came up with 107.5lbs on my digital bathroom scale (with oil). I don't usually choose to believe that scale as it's always telling me I am carrying extra lbs.

How I do it:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20354112&postcount=371

Thanks to Regina Chain:

The chain will be tightest when the three pivots line up in a straight line

The countershaft, the swingarm shaft and the rear axle. If you can compress your suspension to that point and verify there is still a bit of slack you'll know you have it right. Then release the suspension and see what it needs to be when the suspension is unloaded and make a mental note or take measurements



1 First of all, the chain must be placed at its maximum tension condition. This condition will occur whenever the engine and wheel sprockets are at the maximum distance from each other.

To obtain this, it is generally necessary to load the back wheel (for example placing a person on the motorcycle) until the centers of the engine sprocket, the swingarm pivot and the rear wheel axle have been positioned on the same axis. The swinging arm will be parallel to the ground.

http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_an...how_to05.shtml

More pics and info, thanks to TrophyHunter:
http://www.dualsportmoto.com/boards/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=43

So my 97 DR650se simply would not shift down into 3rd gear, so I immediately took it in. Just to keep the story straight, from the time the bike had the issue to the time I dropped it off was no more then 10 miles. I didn't break 35 mph in second gear.
First the shop told me they were needing to inspect the transmission since the problem didn't present itself easily, so I gave permission to open the engine and do a proper inspection with an estimate of 500 + dollars. Next I get a call two weeks later and the shop tells me its going to need a long list of parts to rebuild the transmission and it would cost 2400 dollars to fix. WOW!
I payed $380 dollars and took my disassemble engine and the rest of her home to start doing some research.
It has been 3 weeks and I finally have the time to do my own inspection of the transmission that they explained to me as being messed up.
What I cant figure out is the gears they wanted me to replace seem in great condition, yet my experience with gears are bicycle gears and it is easy to tell when it is time to replace them. Actually all the parts the shop suggested I needed to replace seem good. WTF.
Here I sit thinking the worst with this situation especially since the problem seemed so small. I need some help and I will start by going back to the shop and ask them to convince me that the parts are damaged.
My first question is....IF a shop needed to replace the 4th drive gear on my bike, what kind of damage on the gear could I expect to see?
Here are all the parts they said I needed to replace:
4th drive gear
bushing 4/5
5th drive gear
3rd pinion circlip
1st driven gear
3rd pinion circlip
3rd driven gear
3rd/4th dr bush
4th driven gear
5th driven gear
Fork, gear shift fork (1,2,3)
Shaft gear shift x 2
Cam gear shift
plate gear shift
Kev High pref. clutch Disc set
...
This is most of the transmission and routine parts for the rebuild like gaskets and plugs.

Ill check the shop tomorrow.

After talking to the technician about my transmission problem mentioned before, he educated me about the damage he was able to notice that was likely causing the shifting issues. He explained that there wasn't any single part that was the issue, but rather the combination of many parts showing significant wear and tear that was likely the problem. I decided to buy a new 2013 bike and move on. Therefore my 97 650 is for sale on Craigslist. In time I hope to sell it for $1000. I will be looking for a used engine in the meantime in case it doesn't sell.
I need a used 97 DR650 engine to get this bike running again. PLEASE HELP!

Any 96 to present engine will work.

if any engine will do, then would I need to have some metal fabrication work done to the frame to make it fit? Has anyone done this to their DR 650? The shop told me a new year would need fab work on the frame to work.

1996-2013 is identical. No fab work at all...

Anyone know of a good contact in Northern California?
I would love to talk to someone knowledgeable with this issue of mine and get this bike running again soon. Fortunately I have a new bike to ride, so my motivation is simply to rebuild this bike with a newer engine, and get this bike sold to someone in need of a great ride.

Your shop are wrong ... any DR650 motor from '96 to 2013 will fit perfectly in any DR frame frame from ALL those years.

I'm in San Rafael. Best course to find another engine is probably buying a crashed DR ... or find an older one cheap. Engines alone rarely come up.
But I would be searching Craig's List nationwide and try to find one. But shipping a motor cross country are NOT CHEAP!

About two months ago a guy had a fairly beat up early DR650 for sale right here in San Rafael for $1200. So, once in a while good deals come along.
I don't have the skill to rebuild a DR motor and I don't know anyone who does outside of an actual shop. If a shop does it, figure 8 to 10 hours of labor ... at somewhere around $75 to $90 per hour.

A crashed bike might be your best bet. Something with a crunched frame but where the engine is still OK. Good luck in your search.

I will be searching for a crashed bike or craigslist. I have clarity that I will not be rebuilding the engine. SO far I have not heard any great stories about doing so, especially with the number of parts that need to be replaced. I am in the dark with that one!

If you've ever wanted to ditch those clutch cables in favor of clutching hydraulically, 2laneblacktop has put up a thread detailing the swap:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873137

Find a better shop.

Better yet, get a service manual from www.procycle.us, and a set of sockets, and swap the motors yourself.

Parts swapping is parts swapping. I would be fairly comfortable swapping motors -- in a sense it's not so different from changing tires.

But an outright rebuild, or, the installation of one of the big valve heads or the big bore kit from Procycle would be different.

How difficult is the build, and what special tools are needed, for those chores?

CCT Info (Cam Chain Tensioner)

Don't do this project when you're in a hurry, even though the gasket is small, it's a PITA to remove; mine was fused to the cylinder. And you really don't want to gouge the gasket surface. You'll need to remove the oil lines and exhaust header so there's room to work.

Before reinstalling the CCT, the plunger needs to be retracted. There's a retract screw, under the screw on the left end. Turn it CW to retract the plunger, it should latch. If it doesn't latch, just hold the plunger screw as you tighten the two CCT bolts. The plunger will NOT retract when pushed straight in; you have to keep the pressure off the plunger as you tighten the CCT.

If it latched retracted, once it's installed, turn the retract screw (opposite of retract) to release the plunger. Do NOT forget this.
The screwdriver will spin in your fingers as the plunger extends.

The retract screw lives in here:

Hello all,
was wondering if someone had a picture of their new stock front sprocket installed with a circlip (procycle version) and what bolts they chose to put on. Thank you!!

Hi. Bolts aren't used if you opt to use the circlip. Slip on the sprocket and secure it with the circlip.

The OEM retaining plate isn't used either if you use the circlip.