Hey guys, been out on the trails quite a bit recently and really enjoying the XL, the only downside has been the couple of times I've dropped it :eek1 It starts first kick normally, but, if it goes down it just doesn't want to start for a long time. I've tried the full procedure kicking with decomp etc, but, it just doesn't start....last time I was there for about 20 - 30 mins trying and getting knackered before it fired and then was too knackered to really enjoy the ride. Have you guys got any top tips for starting it after a drop? Apart from not dropping it or getting fitter I'm planning to ride it to Morocco in October, so, need to try and sort it before I hit that heat and sand. Alternatively may have to try and add electric start too, but, that sounds costly....
I haven't dropped mine enough to have proven advice on that question... but maybe close the petcock, drain the float bowls, kick it a few times with manual decomp, open the petcock again. Might help...
Usually its cuz the bowls overflow into the head when in its down. The engine being hot doesn't help any either. Let it cool for about ten minutes, turn off the gas, and kick the bad mixture out of the cylinder a few (10-12) times, turn gas back on, kick one more time and you're off!! Don't ask me how I know this I had one dude swear there is something wrong with my bike cuz it would not start after I face planted at the dunes. No, it's just a turd
Has anybody laced up an 18" wheel to the rear? Any problems? The bike just does not look proportional with a 17" back there.
Not a good idea if you like your tire selection. The 17" and 21" combo have many options because lots of small adv and dual sport bikes run those sizes. The 18" and 21" combo is more of a straight dirt bike arrangement so you're down to buying mostly knobbys.
There was a time when 17" selections were limited, but not now. 21" has grown quite a bit too lately.
My procedure when that happens- shut gas off, flip the kill switch to off, pull decomp, hold throttle wide open and kick through a few times (make sure kill switch is off when you kick with the throttle open!) flip kill switch back to on and do normal starting drill. It usually starts first kick for me after that, after it starts I turn the gas back on.
I bought a very nice complete 86 rocker box off of ebay. It looks like somebody wirebrushed the rocker faces and I cant tell for sure if the chrome plating has been compromised. How much is it to get the rockers done and who does it?
I have more experience with this then I would like. I just turn the gas off pull the decomp lever and kick leisurely until it starts. It will most times go fairly soon. Turn gas back on and ride away. If you kick for a long time before it starts turn the gas back on.
Cheers guys, hoping I don't drop it anytime soon, but, will give your suggestions a go next time :) may even just lay it down to see if it works for me
My plan is to get these rockers done and get my old cam hardwelded and reground as a mild stage one. Save everything for when I ever get around to doing a timing chain after another 10,000 miles.
Changed my clutch basket and primary gears to 650L ratio today to see what it is like. Was 4750 RPM in fifth, now 4350 RPM's at 65MPH Not much difference otherwise, still 1st and second throttle roll on wheelies. About the same as changing one tooth on C/S as far as I can tell. Although numerically it calculates differently. it feels like it widened the trans ratios a bit. More on that when I drop the final ratio close to where overall ratio was for comparison. Changed my clutch springs back to stock, (the real reason for going in there) feels sooo much better at the lever, no slippage detected at all.
Today I got my aftermarket CDI and put it on. I thought while I was in there I would check the stator ignition wire for resistance. Manual says it should be 300-500 ohms. I have over 100. Since it is an aftermarket stator and seems to work good should I be worried? I would hate to fry the new CDI. My pulse generator should be here Thursday so I am not firing it up again until it is done.
check out this skid plate? how does the ancillary plate attach? or is that a whole different lager skidplate? does anyone have one of these and you could post a closeup of the attach between the tow pieces? thanks
Gots a new problem today :dogThe yamaha is almost done so I went ripping aroung on the xl for a bit this am to come back home to an oil leak :eek1 Not a happy camper not just got one almost fixed and now the baby has to go down, My question is the oil seems to be comming from bening the front sproket, can I pull the sproket and slam a new seal in or do I need to split cases and get a bearing for it along with the seal the sproket has almost 1/4 turn of play in it now but does not feel like it has any up and down movement to it
Counter shaft seal is easy to replace. Stab it with an ice pick and pry it out. Be sure to clean the counter shaft prior to removing the bad seal as when you install the new seal you don't want to drive any crap in to the engine. Look at how the seal sits before you remove it and be sure to set the new seal at the same depth. It can go in quite a ways and rub on the bearing inside if your not careful. Oil up the new seal before you install it.
