lubing trans spline and leaking neutral switch

A. Gunk. Carb Cleaner. Kerosene. White Gas.

B Not much. But you got the new Brass style - those shouldn't be as delicate as the aluminum ones. I do it by feel, so it's hard to put a ft/lbs figure on that. I'd go light on the torque, and if it leaks, snug it up a bit more. It's easy enough to reach when the bike is all together.

C. The gearshift seal needs to be pulled out - it won't just fall out. Remember how deep it is and press the new one in about the same.

I just read through this thread for the first time. Well, I think I am the third guy who couldn't find a PN for a late model brass neutral switch? I have heard one exists but I have never seen it.

Why lube your splines? Does your clutch grab engaging or disengaging it? If not it's a waste of time. I know there are plenty of airheads out there that love the ritual of doing a job that they can actually do. That is if they don't over lube the splines and F up the clutch or not tighten down the drive shaft bolts tight enough so that the bolts come loose and F up a bunch of stuff. Lubing those splines does not make the splines last longer and chances are the bike needs attention elsewhere that it actually needs. Grabby clutch? Lube your splines. Otherwise, give your bike some attention it could use.

It is sold by Hucky's http://www.bmwhucky.com/010023.html

$25.55

You have to call him and order over the phone he will explain how he does business. It involves no credit cards I think.

I think I have heard a similar item is sold by Motobins and maybe Ted Porter.

That's for trannies up to 9/74 the way I read it? the aluminum switch for the later models is down lower on the page.

I stopped looking and just grabbed the one that was brass not even thinking there were two switches. Of course there are.

It may be that he has a later switch in brass but it's not on the Web page. I just know that it is often recommended by others. And they say Hucky's has it.

I read the recommendations and that Hucky's has it too. People talk as if they have bought one and have one on their bike. I just can't figure out how but this isn't the first time I have ran into this conundrum. I am still hoping this time around bucks a not so good trend I have had with info ascertained the net!

Anybody have any ideas? Wirespokes? Onelessharley? It would be great to get a PN for a later tranny and try a brass one since the BMW's are now crap.

Just to add to the list, my "new" (2 year old) alu switch purchased from the local BMW shop is now leaking....

"Why lube your splines?"

I have fragged not one, but two clutch discs and input shafts from being lazy on this maintenance item. When I was describing to a non-airhead what a PITA it was to lube the splines he simply asked if doing that task was cheaper than a new clutch and tranny refurb. Yup, it IS better to lube

I have seen enough regularly lubed splines do the same thing to come to a different conclusion. Plus I have seen SO many airheads never get their splines lubed and have no issues for it whatsoever. Including my own. Lube away but spline failures really have nothing to do with being lubed on a regular basis. I have a couple hundred thousand miles of airhead experience personally and customers and friends that have cumulatively millions of miles without anywhere close to regular spline lubes and we haven't had any more spline issues for it. IMO if it mattered much at all we would all have to be lubing our splines every 5k miles or we would all be stripping splines all the time since the lube is typically gone long before that.

super, if not lack of lubrication do you have a theory for those of us who've experienced spline failure?

I think it is inconsistent metallurgy in the friction disc hub. That and misaligned transmissions or a combo thereof.

Would you care to elaborate on the mis-alignment idea. What do you think may be mis-aligned, and would this be a function of the manufacturing process, or of maintenance procedures, or......?

I am interested because circumstances present me with my first-ever opportunity to lube my splines.

Peter H

A function of the manufacturing process. Not machined correctly. For some reason, I have mostly seen it with K75's but airheads can be off too. I have seen it.

Yes, please elaborate on the misalignment - /2s needed to be aligned, but after 1970 (73?) the transmissions have alignment ribs that 'lock' the transmission to the block.

Hey, shaft - have you requested the info from Hucky or Motobins, or are we supposed to do that for you? I don't have the data to hand and don't have the time to search for you. Since you're so hot on debunking the 'rumor' the brass ones aren't available for the newer bikes, why don't YOU do the legwork?

Also, weren't the neutral switches changed in 75 or 76? If one is stated to be good for 77, then that's quite possibly the right one.

I do have a brass one here, and if I remember to check on it, I'll post the data where it came from (motobins, as I recall) and the part number, and whether it is normally on or off.

The ribs and the bolt/stud threads in the case for the tranny can be machined wrong. I suspect as much with the transmission's ribs. They are machined. I suspect that the mating flats can be off too.

Requested the info? I have looked at their websites. You certainly do not have to do that for me. What other leg work is there?

Why are you always telling me what I am hot to do? Where do you get off??? And once again, you are wrong about me being hot to debunk the rumor, as usual. You would think you could get a clue and give up second guessing my personal motivations for discussions here since, so far, you have always been wrong either in part or full. It's as if my personal motivations matter to start with. AS I SAID EARLIER, I hope the brass switches are available for the later model bikes. I just can't find a PN AFTER looking. Last I checked, both Hucky's and Motobins had one brass switch. We need two if we are going to use them on all of our airheads.

The tranny input shaft has to be aligned to the clutch plate. if you didn't take the clutch plate out, It's a non-issue. if you rotate the trans input shaft the splines might not line up with the grooves in the clutch disk. So you rotate the shaft a bit more. Big deal. Put the tranny in 1st gear when you work on it and that becomes a non-issue as well.


I don't pull the tranny to do the splines, too much work. I do use some cheap toothbrushes to clean things. You can use a dental gum brush (the conical ones at right angles to the handles) if you want to clean inside the clutch disk. Avoid solvents around the clutch disk. I use a little on the tooth brush for the tranny splines. Then I use a fresh toothbrush (get 'em cheap at the dollar store) to apply the lube.


Just cooked myself up a pot of custom lube, mostly Honda Moly60 with powdered grahite added. Pretty stiff. Will see how it works.

Are you sure that is all you have cooked up? I am talking about engine/transmissions coming misaligned from the factory. I have diagnosed it before and had it warrantied.

Are you talking about the input shaft spline wearing away at the rearmost contact point of the friction plate spline?
I have seen such a case recently.

They do that sometimes with a lined up tranny but that is one of the signs.