The Baja Wan-Thousand: A Quick Trip to the Tip

Hi CB160 -
it was a long day on the slab - and very windy (we were leaning over for hours).
Food was good, though.
thanks for reading along!

uh oh - get the 990 "back together?" :huh
Glad to provide some motivation!
good luck!

hey Goggles,
you sound great (maybe a little hopped up on meds...)
Keep up the good work!!
get better and don't over do it...

Oh, that is personal.
Actually, it looks like we're newly unemployed.
The family business that has kept us busy for so long is finally closing down.

So....got any ideas?







OK, you guys - I'm hard at work on Day 9.
New post should commence shortly....

Ha ha, it looks like one of your doggy friends took a liking to Bartek, or at least his bike

French bakery or Basque restaurant in Southen Oregon using locally sourced ingredients when available, in Ashland, Jacksonville or Eagle Point. I would more specifically suggest renovating 178 W. Main Street in Eagle Point and starting a French, Irish or Basque restaurant, or a French bakery. Too specific

Oh, no - I’m pretty sure that was El Bartek marking his own bike.
With chain lube.

Wow, you did have some ideas!
Hmm. We could handle the renovation part, but the "French, Irish or Basque restaurant" or "French bakery..."
How do you feel about oatmeal or pico de gallo salsa?
Those are my 2 specialties.











Day 9: 2/25/13 Guerrero Negro to Cataviña
250 miles







After getting more pesos (there’'s a banamex in town)
and fueling up the bikes, it was time to look for breakfast.
Bartek was hoping for a cafe so he could get some coffee...







Now that we’re home, I see that figón translates to “cheap restaurant.”
Well. That explains it.







We went in and sat down.
A friendly-ish but extremely disheveled old man shuffled over and handed us filthy menus.
We ordered coffee all around.


The old man brought over an ancient container of non-dairy creamer...
¿Señor, leche por favor?

A grim look. Sí.



He brought us this yucky creamer.





I didn’'t take a photo, but Bartek lifted the lid and took a peek.
He and Matt said there were dead bugs floating in the milk.
And, it didn'’t seem like it had been refrigerated.




We looked at each other.
When the coffee came out in dirty, stained cups - that was it.
OK, this isn’'t going to work.



Bartek said, "I will pay for the coffee and then we must leave."
You got it, Bartek!

The old man didn'’t really deserve payment for the coffee he brought out,
but we didn'’t want to be rude.
Really, we were just glad to get out of there without food poisoning.









On the way to the bank, we had gone by this new coffee shop.
It hadn'’t seemed open at the time, but it was.
Thank goodness!






It was new and clean and brightly decorated.







Coffee in clean cups!
Fresh, cold milk!







They had some inviting items on the menu, but I wasn’'t going to hold my breath.
I tried to pick something benign.
A baguette with ham.
They were incredibly slow in making it
(I think she had to go to the store to buy the ingredients),
but it was delicious.







Bartek was stoked! Nom nom nom!







They had a bunch of Italian soda syrups and lots of baked goods, too.






It was a great little place - with Wi fi, too!
I hope they can stay open.
Oh, look - they have a facebook page.





OK, breakfast was nice but it was 9:45 before we got on the road...
Look at the giant bird’s nest on this pole!







But, now we were gaining an hour back.






Back into Baja California Norte.







Took a photo of this sign. Cute dog in the background - bonus!







Got gas and realized that Bartek no longer had the Rotopax to extend his range.








Good thing we had been carrying around the dromedary just in case.
We used it for water in the past, but now it'’s been demoted to fuel storage.
Matt put in 1.5 gallons for Bartek.







Another military checkpoint, but no search.







Here we are - the turnoff for San Borja...





































Everyone who goes to San Borja mentions these “Dr. Suess” trees...
Fouquieria columnaris or Boojum Tree.







The best ones are all squiggly, but I didn'’t get many photos of them.
Just this blurry one...



















As we got closer to the mission, some bikes were coming the other way...







Hey, where’'s all your stuff?







We had really been hoping that Genero would be at the mission -
and he was!!







hey, Sarco! He'’s half husky and half german shepard.
Such a nice doggie.







Last time we were here, we brought Genero our old camera.
This time, he got the other one.
(If you're heading out this way and would like to bring Genero a gift - rechargeable AA batteries would be great)







Genero was just about to give a tour of the grounds, so we tagged along.













There are 9 springs on the property. This was one of the warm ones.






Sarco was sampling one of the other ones.
Genero said he has tried some of this water himself and didn'’t get sick...
I'’ll take his word for it.






We took a quick peek at the mission.
















photo by Barteknologie™





Bartek was into it!









photo by Barteknologie™



















Bartek actually rang the bell here (and at every mission he could).
I can'’t believe we never got yelled at...














Genero’'s mom took this nice photo of us.
With Genero'’s future camera (currently mine).







Just as we were getting ready to leave, a 2up couple pulled up.
Hey, that bike looks familiar!
Meet Dennis and Mary.







They were on their way down South.
I think to Cabo?

Dennis said he’s a lurker on ADV, so maybe this will out him...
We want to hear how your trip went!







Hey - is is just me or are all the photos smaller?
I think photobucket changed my default upload again.
Do you guys like this size or do you prefer the larger photos?
I can't decide.

photos? Bigger the better is my motto.

And I think my son and Bartek would get along great--he gave that bell and huge CLANG!
and I kept waiting for the scolding but no-one said a thing

Matt could teach a course in 2up dirt riding on school buses

Great RR!! I'm heading to Cabo in 3 weeks and your report is getting me so pumped!!

I guess they're used to it!

OK, as long as the pics don't get too big, I'll try a slightly larger setting...
This next post is a mix of big and bigger...

As long as they bring their own crash test dummies pillions!

Thanks, stevodadevo!
Have a great trip!






Day 9: 2/25/13 Guerrero Negro to Cataviña, continued.
250 miles






Leaving San Borja...






We managed to go out a slightly different route.
Looking at the map, I’'m not sure how that worked...
but it wasn'’t the same way we came in.



If you look carefully, that white/light grey spot up ahead is a horse...



More horses!







This way had more sand.






Eventually, it joined up with the other road...







and then hit the highway.







Oh - map time! I almost forgot.
The pink dots show our route.







We were taking this road over to the coast.




It's hard to tell from my crappy photo, but this road is extra wide.

Hey, this must be the dry canal!
Back in the 90s, they used to talk about building a road across Baja,
so that people could truck their boats from the Pacific side over to the Cortez side...



I guess in 2000 or 2001 they tried to make it a reality.
Found this online:



(that website doesn't work)

It never seemed like a good idea and the numbers they were throwing around -
insane. Totally unrealistic.


For one thing, this is pretty far down the peninsula.
Isla Cedros is the most dreaded part of the coast and it’s directly across from Santa Rosalilita.
If you made it this far in a boat, you might as well keep on going to Cabo.



They got as far as building the facility, but it'’s abandoned now.
All the Fonatur marinas use the same plans, so this is identical to the one in Puerto Esocondio, for example.






And, look - that beautiful (very expensive) Travel Lift is just rotting away.
(used for picking boats up out of the water for transport)





Another failed plan/horrible eyesore.
Mexico is just littered with them.





OK - here we are...







We were just making our way towards up the coast.






It was Day 8 (of 11) and Bartek decided to buy a map of Baja.
Here he is, breaking it out for the first time.














I don'’t think this was on any race course or anything.
It was just a means of getting North.







It was nice to be out in the dirt, but this road was brutal.
Miles and miles of horrible washboard.
Most of my photos didn'’t turn out - it was so bumpy and rough!







El Cardon. We didn'’t see much - just camping.






Surfers.






The road goes through there and to the right...














What a beautiful, pristine dune...







Too tempting for El Bartek to pass up!







Dude, the trail is over that way!






Uh oh.







Stuck.















OK. We're good now...







The road was nicer and less washboardy now.






It was past 2pm and I think someone was thinking about food..






But we still had a long way to go.






This section was pretty neat...






It was like riding through a botanical garden. All kinds of exotic plants...












This part - not so much.













We were back at the water. It was a good place to stop.







It was 3pm and way past feeding time.
Feed. Bartek. NOW.
We dug out our emergency supplies - jerky, bars, and nuts.






Tires.
D908




Tractionator







We were having a great ride.






Wide open spaces.






All kinds of interesting terrain.






Sometimes along the water...






Sometimes further inland.






But always, always nice.






It went on forever...







Just keep going thataway...

Enjoying your incredable RR & pictures. Reminded me of my first time down in 2006. A picture taken just north of Rancho Varonica.

Good stuff so far! I need to get down there sometime...

So, tell me about using the Dromedary to transport fuel. I have read about it a bit here and there. What is your take? I am thinking about using one but am afraid it might funk up my Giant Loop.

That is a surfers dream right there.

Hey AZ TOM,
Thanks for reading! Looks like you had a fun trip yourself!

Hi MasterMarine,
I was totally nervous about it, but the dromedary worked really well.

We only put 1.5 gallons in (and it's a 10 liter bag), and it wasn't very hot that day.
As long as you put the fuel into your tank as soon as there's room, it's probably safe-ish.
Matt has used it for gasoline a few times now, with no problems.
The best thing is that the dromedary is super light and compact when you aren't using it.


I wouldn't try and put it inside your GL, if that's what you mean. Once you use it for fuel, it will probably stink.
I don't know that for sure (you'll notice that we kept ours on the back rack), but I would imagine.
(by the way, ours isn't just held on by a bungee - it's strapped down at both ends, and across the top, too)


Anyway, as long as you store it strapped to the bike somewhere you probably won't even notice an odor. I didn't.
We didn't have any problems with leaking, either (there was no wetness).
It probably helps that we didn't crash.


After use, Matt puts some air in the bladder and lets it dry.
So far, so good!

Yep.

Matt was dying. EVERY single wave was perfect.
It was pretty amazing.









Day 9: 2/25/13 Guerrero Negro to Cataviña, continued.
250 miles





So, when we left off, we were still on this great road...





















You can see that we were kinda out there...







Not much around but dirt and more dirt...







So when we came across another of those random “basura” (garbage) cans...
(remember I mentioned that there was one on the road to San Evaristo?)
I was happy to grab a quick snapshot!








It was really pretty out here, with lots of cool plants.







We thought it would be a nice place to get some photos of El Bartek,
so we stopped and waited.







And waited. Where the hell was he?
We sat and chatted a bit, but then we started to get worried.







We turned around and headed back.
The further we went, the more anxious I got.
OK, that’s way too long. Crap. crap. crap.



So, it was a huge relief when we rolled up on this...







Guess who got another flat?

Hey, rider 914 -
here’'s the patch on the HD tube...



It looks great, huh?






Yeah, so the patch held wonderfully, but now there was a new hole.







It was this thing:








A really old rusty nail.







El Bartek was doing a top notch job of clearing the trails for you guys!






Pretty flower for Ladybug!







Lots of neat plants and rocks out here.











































The googly eyes gardener would be extra nervous in Baja.







Maybe this would help...









Speaking of nervous, check out El Bartek'’s front rim...







Where’'s that taco song..?








Hey, BigWan - what'’s the flat count now?






Total Flats:

Bartek - 3

Scott - 1

M + K - 1



Go Bartek!








It's getting late...Guess we'’re riding in the dark tonight!

Sorry to hear of your work troubles, I've been through that before and it isn't funny. Hey.......

If Michelin have their restaurant guide, then you could produce the Pirelli MT21 Taco guide

Aw, thanks MeinMotorrad
We knew it was coming, we're just trying to figure out what's next.
When one door closes another one opens, right?






Regarding photos:
I resized a few, but they probably won't show up bigger until tomorrow.






Day 9: 2/25/13 Guerrero Negro to Cataviña, continued.
250 miles







The sun was going down and my light was fading quickly. Let the blurry photos commence!







Watch out, little dudes!!

































I. like. big. ruts. and I cannot lie...(the sensitive version )








Another Baja sunset... *sigh*








There’'s Bartek'’s light...








This one is the moon! It was the most amazing ORANGE moonrise...
the photo doesn'’t do it justice.








We were going too fast and missed this corner.
Ran off the road (good thing it wasn'’t a cliff).








It was a nice excuse to take another photo of the sunset.








I didn'’t fiddle with this at all, it just turned out all cool and purple like that!







El Bartek in el dartek.
I wanted to write that last time, but thought it was too stupid.

This time, I didn’'t care.
He said his fuel light had come on 17 miles ago. Oooh. Hope he has enough gas to get to Cataviña.
















Almost there!








Ta da! Cataviña.















Saw a couple bikes, but not the owners...
















Steeekers!








Y mas!








We were in room 120. The same room Bartek had last year.








He was excited to have his same bed, too.








Don'’t I look like the statue of liberty?








It was a nice place. Overpriced, but not a lot of choices in Cataviña.
Our most expensive yet - they wanted $109, but with the internet discount it went down to $80.







This was a funny little...thing. Vase? Urn? Sculpture?







Time to break out La bubi! again!







Ah, beer.







Beef of Cattle








I got the Fillet of Fish to the Taste of Wing Irons to the Gravy of Garlic. Pescado a la Plancha con Ajo.








It was muy rico.








Matt and Bartek each got the Mexican Combination Plate. Muy rico tambien.
























Day 9 is in the books!

Oh, ignore the time stopped and trip total. Everything else is correct.
I cleared the info but forgot to turn the unit off. Norm was just ticking away in tank bag overnight.









The morning was going to bring some challenging riding.
We were nervous, but...




We were gonna be on that like Bartek on a taco! **





** a phrase coined by Goggles Pizano.

I told Scott I was doing a new post for the RR and he said, "I'm gonna be on that like Bartek on a taco!!"

Love it!

Do you think it's going to catch on?

Loving the RR!!

Good luck on new doors opening for you guys. Sending good vibes.

Jeff G.

My first crossing, on a bike, a week from today! Can't wait. Should be getting ready, but couldn't pass up your RR. Great Job, Thanks.

I was not planning to put it in my GL but I am sure it would be strapped up close to it or on it to fit on my bike. I am mostly concerned about it making my GL and stuff in it smell gassy. It would probably suck to try to sleep in a gas smelling sleeping bag in a gas smelling tent for 8 days. I would definitely dump the fuel out of it as soon as it would fit in my tank. In the past, I have used MSR bottles and Gatorade bottles but they are a pain to haul when they are empty.

Thanks for your input!

Great report as always!

Hello, I know many other said it first, but your report is the food of gods. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and pictures!
Just a small question, I noticed the Sena units on the helmets, did they work as planned, could you communicate well enough? What can you say about them?

Great report! Alberto at El Dorado is a great guy, My favorite place to stay in Loreto

Thanks for all the photos! Good luck with your new door opening, I'm sure you two can figure it all out. Still winter here but did manage a few short street rides on the V Strom this past week