Pre '96 Suzuki DR650S

I am looking to replace the clutch cover on my 1990 DR 650s... I have found a few used on line, and was wondering if there are compatible years that I could shop for as well (i.e. 1991 or 1992). Please let me know.

Thank you,

DURTI

What tires were those on the DR650?

I have a 93 and the carb runs great, except for one issue.
When I let off the throttle all the way, the motor revs around 2 1/2k for about 5-10 secs. What would cause this, the throttle springs back good.

Have stock tank plastics from a '94. anyone need?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

What carb are you referring to? I don't follow this thread too closely (sorry) so I may have missed something previously..

On some 2 strokes, having too lean a pilot (slow) jet will result in a hanging idle. Dunno if it's the same for 4 strokes or not.

Also, if this is a CV carb (with the big dome on top) your throttle cable is only connected to the downstream butterfly valve, NOT to the throttle slide. If the slide is hanging up or the spring is weak, the slide may not be returning to the bottom as it should.

Hey!

Has anybody upgraded their steering head bearings to tapered rollers or know the bearing part number to do so?

Just did a piston change. Followed the manual and everything is done correctly, or well I did not encounter anything odd in the process. But when I started up the engine it makes this mechanical sound from the inside.. Is the timing chain not set correctly? I did have the lines leveled to the ground when in TDC and all.. i'm confused.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEPf85MaeTE&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sounds bad man! Could be a valve hitting the piston? Did you wind up the cam chain tensioner before installing it? The lines on the cam should be parallel with the surface of the head and the locating pin should be at 1 o'clock

I did not do anything with the tensioner to be honest. I thought it was set from before. Yes I did have the lines on the cam like that and I had the TDC "T" indicator in the inspection hole by the magnet cover. I even have a photo of it, from the wrong side , though. But you can see the pin at one o'clock.

When the tensioner is removed, it extends fully and locks in place. If it is not retracted, it puts way too much pressure onto the guide and chain when it is installed. The manual shows how to set it before installing. Still sounds like a valve contacting the piston, or the valve clearance it too large. Also, there is way, way too much sealant there. All that is needed is a paper thin smear. All of the excess that is squeezed inside will eventually fall off and could block oil passages, and possibly the oil feed to the left side cam journal.

Can't think of anything else that could be causing it?

Alright, did not know that about the tensioner. I'm gonna open it again and re-check everything and also retract the tensioner. I did check the valves before closing it, they are in spec.

When deassembling it I noticed that the previous owner/mechanic had used a LOT of sealant, more than I have now, so I figured this old lady likes it that way. Will use less next time.

No I can't think of much more than all of this.. I'm still a bit confused. There's so few parts inside and I've gone through all of them in my head trying to figure out what's wrong.

That stuff is EVIL. And can be death to an engine since using so much causes it to ooze out into the inside of the engine. It breaks off...hardens and finds its way into small oil passages where it clogs things up. Check your upper end for evidence of poor oiling.

Remove all that sealant crap. Use Suzuki #1216 Silicone Sealant. It's expensive but one tube will last years.

Use a THIN coating with just a BB sized (or smaller) dab in the corner where the round came end cap meets the flat gasket surface.

Will do that. Right now I am on holiday in Turkey and wont be back for a while whenever I have done these things I will post here and let you know if it worked.

ok guys thanks in advance for lots of stupid questions about to come starting with how hard is it t get rid of the fairing on a 1990 rs model dr650 does it involve re mounting head light etc need less to say i hav.nt got my hands on it yet

Does anyone know if a 1994 DR650RE has compatible parts with the 96+ 650SE's?

I'm thinking about getting it but not sure if its worth it to buy something a bit newer.. I don't want this thing to break and no one has parts for it. I'm in Australia..

Made a thread about it here but didnt get much interest, topic is too obscure probably

The only compatible parts are the tyres, tubes, rims and handle bars OEM parts are still readily available, except for more obscure items. (decals, some plastic parts) You will find bugger all after market parts for the pre 96's, although some post 96 bits could be bodgied into place

Allright, I'm back now. Tomorrow I will try to get her running again. My current plan is to:

1. Remove and reassemble tensioner correctly. If this works I will only open the top and remove the sealant and use a proper amount for assembly. If issue remains;
2. Open top, put her in TDC, re-check that marks are aligned horisontally. If wrong, correct it. Then reassemble according to above. If issue remains;
3. Put it in a dumpster. Set fire to the dumpster, buy a KTM. If issue remains;
4. Cry

Okay, I might not have a real step 3 and 4. Thoughts?

Oh and one last question. The manual states that when putting her in TDC, it should be on compression stroke. How to know if comp or de-comp(?) stroke?

Martin

As you rotate the crank, the exhaust valve will open as the piston comes up on the exhaust stoke, Continue to rotate, the exhaust will close and intake will open.

After the intake shuts that's the compression stroke. Look for the mark coming up as the intake is closing.

Allright. Thank you. I had the covers closed last time, might want to open them tomorrow then to see the valves in action.