Why wait till spring? Flushing brakes is only a ten-minute job. If you're not doing it annually (or at least bi-annually) you're asking for trouble down the road. If you can't find a DR350-specific hose, there are plenty of places on-line or possibly walk-in (depending on where you are) that can make custom hoses for you.
Ive got some prototype tank decals sitting in the corner. Buddy who runs a decal/car wrap business made them for me. They are extremely adhesive, and we put tons of tiny slits in it to hopefully allow for breathing. If these don't work longer than ?? months a 'perforated' set will be next. Ive seen pics of DR bikes with said perforated decals that did not look bubbled, not sure how long ago they were put on though. Do decals apply well in below freezing temps? :huh
Well I swapped the 98 forks over to my 97 yesterday. So i had to swap the wheel and brake caliper and cylinder( the caliper and master cylinder/brake lever all still connected as a unit so air in the line should not be an issue). I got it all on and was yelling my head sweet I can go for a ride! then I grabbed the front brake to pump it up after the wheel install and the lever pulled all the way to the bar. Pumped it again it doesn't get better still at the bar. Barley enough friction to stop the wheel. Pull the pads they are shot. So i know I need pads. The brake fluid needs changing so i need to do that too. Worst case if for some reason I need to replace the master cylinder seals ie rebuild it i wanted to know what i was getting into. So first things first new pads ordered then Ill flush the fluid then if that doesn't work ill rebuild the master cylinder.
I had to change the front hose on my "98SE, when I first got it, because it had rubbed on the rotor, with this... http://helusa.com/store/product_inf...=4387&osCsid=1ae0212c91c4220c1f1476fa95a662eb. The only problem was bleeding the air out. Finally had to take the caliper loose and turn it sideways (bleeder valve facing up and spacer between pads), then it bleed first try.
can anyone recommend a battery for 98 dr350se? looking for most cca with less weight and price. battery i have only has 50cca.
RM250 fork swap done. Gotta get the Vapor wired up and figure out how to get the fork "twist" out of it. Hoping to take it on my camping trip next weekend.
Theres already been a few. Mr Pulldown has done this swap and has commented on this thread. Here's a link to what I read:http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=29511.0 Do a search on that forum, rm fork swap and a few good reads. The gist is swap steering stems, press on new bearings, use rm wheel, axle, and caliper of the forks you use. Get creative with speedo and turn signal mounting. You'll need to bush the upper clamp where the stem goes through, I used a copper coupler cut down from the hardware store.
ive been in the mkt for a dr650 or TE610 but now I feel as tho I should spend the coin and treat my girl with the suspension love it deserves and make her the all around girl. Can I get a witness for the DR350!
I got this one for my "98SE.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/AGM-YTX7L-B...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d392f4880 Don't know the cca but it's been in there about 9 months with no problems, no charging at all (don't know how it would work in really cold conditions) sealed AGM. Works good enough I got more for my other 2 bikes. Not a log term test, but, no problems so far.
Take a look at sycl lithium batteries. Way lighter and about the same cost. Look in venders the guy is an inmate and offers a discount. Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
No experience with those, but I have been using Shorai lithium batteries and have been very please. Higher price, but last much longer with a 3yr warranty.
No turn sigs and my speedo came off a mtn bike. doesn't seem too bad... I still need to get mine running first.
My CDI unit went kaput a couple of months ago and I have a replacement on the way. I want to make sure that I did the bypass of the clutch and side stand wiring correctly before I put on the new cdi. So is it just a matter of connecting both wires together? The bike was running fine, I'm just a little paranoid at the moment that the bypass caused the problem. So can someone please post the correct procedure? Thanks Gerry
Parts just came in from tntmo. Hopefully tomorrow I can get to the bottom of this and see what went AWOL on my bike.
Yep the two wires get connected to each other. On both the kick stand and the clutch safety. For the clutch, the wires can get dissconnected if you do not have enough slack in the wires turn the handle bar to the steering stop quickly like in a crash. Have you checked this before ordering a new CDI. This one is easy to do. Kick stand. YOu should follow the wires all the way back to the plug. Clip the plug on the harness side. Take two lose wires, twist together and solder. Then tape back to harness. This takes a little longer to do as it is under the tank. I guess if you did not solder it or tape it realyl well they can come undone.
