Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Thanks. I'm stuck at the in-laws today but will hit the Tractor Supply store in the morning.

I'm a bit embarrassed to announce what the origin of the mystery bolt is that was responsible for the de-railment of the TransHawk oil pump drive chain.






During my original exploratory inspection and dis assembly of the primary drive mechanism I simply slid the clutch pack off of its shaft and set it to the side so as to not disturb the assembly sequence of its many parts with the outside face up. I never really examined it focusing on the crankcase area looking for clues to see where that screw may have come from.

Today I decided to change out the discs in the TransHawk clutch pack.

Upon picking it up for the first time to begin the dis assembly I flipped it over and exposed the origin of the mystery bolt.







In the Honda Manual they call this part of the clutch pack the clutch outer.

Also the Honda Manual and the Honda Microfiche shows no bolts like the TransHawk has. the manual shows only rivets in that location.

Honda must have had trouble like I did with the bolts in early models and changed to rivets after the TransHawk was built.

I took a look at the Transalp clutch in the manual and they are riveted as well, so no worries there.

The take away here is that when we are working on our clutches, look for bolts or rivets and be sure if you have bolts on the clutch outer make certian that they are correctly torqued with Locktite.






The torque plate on the TransHawk Clutch outer was damaged when the second of the three retaining bolts backed out and snagged the oil chain tweaking the torque plate and then shucking the oil pump drive chain pins and links off into the sump and ultimately de-railing the chain.







So I have been on the phone with my preferred Honda dealer to order a new clutch outer assy. w/ rivets $260.62 USD discounted from $358.98

I should have everything later next week.



Stay tuned..................



.

Dave, that's really good news. At least it was nothing deep internal. a few bucks, a little work, and a lot of peace of mind.

Got out of familial obligations early and got my bolt (its a 10, 1.25 by the way).
Thanks for everyone's help. I didn't measure before and after ride heights or have time for a ride yet but Hotmamaandme's experience with the same shock makes me feel better.
Now to try to schedule slipping the Intiminators that have been sitting in the garage for the past couple months in the front shocks..... I'm sure I'll be back with more questions then!

DDD,

Those button head allens do NOT look like any hardware I've ever seen used on a Honda.

Maybe the PO installed those after the rivets got sloppy? Just a quess but that hardware says DIY to me.

Well, between work, work, and building my friends' 77 KZ400, 78 XS750, and 78 XS650, I've been slowly chipping away at my TransAlp mods. Ran errands on her all day today, and have to say she rips!



Better pictures and details of mods to come.

+ 1 on that. They don't look OEM Honda Dave...


Cheers,

Dan.

Hello AppFan,

The shock length (& linkages) changed after '88. The difference is about 25 - 30mm from memory. It has been discussed in this thread previously.
I would suspect you've received the wrong model shock?

Can the Ohlins supplier advise if there is two types available, and what the difference in eye to eye length is?


Cheers,

Dan.

+2 like this fix:

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=OIbzvJre7IM&desktop_uri=/watch?v=OIbzvJre7IM


There are many other DIY fixes for the rivets getting loose. The one above shows stainless bolts........would not be my first choice. One is not worried about rust. . Coming loose or not strong enough big concern as we have seen first hand....:eek1:eek1

Thanks Dan. Ohlins site lists 88-90 and 91-96 on their site with the difference in length being 355 and 378. Do you think the US 1989 would utilize their 91-96?

Cory and Appfan,

Sorry fellas but I just can't agree that the shock you both received was the correct one. If I had received it I would have been on the phone with Ohlings right away.

No doubts that it works and works well but if you dial in the correct rear sag on both shocks you will still end up with significantly reduced rear wheel travel and lower ride height with the Ohlins that you have in your hands.

The fact that you may not be able to get the correct rear sag with the old standard spring is immaterial here.

I'm betting that they sent the shock for the later model TAs. For the price of these things you should certainly get the correct one.

Stainless bolts, like all fasteners have their applications.

It's important to note that stainless hardware is usually softer than the standard grade stuff that comes on most bikes. Nowhere near grade 8.

For an application that replaces clutch basket rivets stainless would be the wrong thing to use.

to start with REAR SHOCKS:

As many of you know I owned a 1991 Transalp imported bike. I found far more changes to this model vs pre 91 TA's than you will commonly find mentioned on the interent, however the 1991 TA's rear shock was not one of them. I have no recollection of it being any longer nor did it look any different, I cetainly never noticed it. I can't even recall what bike I put it in which means it was undistingishable from any other 89-90 TA rear shock.

BOLTS: Grade 8 bolts are for the most part overkill in most applications on a motorcycle, the OEM engine mounting bolts are not even grade 8 quality. Having said that I see no harm in using grade 8 for general use if it makes you feel better.

CLUTCH RIVET alterations: I must have skipped class when they discussed this, why are people changing the clutch rivets to screws, is this a problem?? What am I missing? I would go study a clutch assembly to try and figure it out for myself but I don't get to ask too many questions here.

Thanks Mark. Not sure why Ohlins lists two different model numbers based on years (88-90 and 91-96) with their 91-96 seeming to be more the same length as the factory one on my 89 but will be finding out.

The 650 Transalps (2000 and up) used a different rear suspension setup with a shorter shock and different linkage geometry.

I'm not suggesting that the short shock is for a 1991 model.

What I AM suggesting is that you don't pay that kind of cash for a great shock and then get one that's 30mm shorter than standard.

Clutch noise can be the problem, caused by clutch basket connection to primary drive gear being loose. There is cushion system with springs that is damaged. New clutch basket assembly is the fix, if it is not available or some want to save money the rivets are removed and replaced with bolts or bolts are added. Some times the cushion springs are broken causing the noise and or clutch chatter. Then the rivets are removed to service the springs. This was never meant to be repaired in the field. As seen these rivets or bolts are in a high stress location.

I do not believe this a common problem on TA.

I just pulled the spring plate from the clutch outer.






I can see that the holes were drilled, chamfered, and helicoiled..




One can expect that sort of thing from an engine purchased from a cycle salvage.

Clearly there is story here.

To Showkeys point it appears that three cushion springs replaced.

And there were a few times when I really dumped the clutch and it made a squawking sound.

I have had this bike since 1996 and have been a lot of places on it this way.. It certainly picked the right time to Fail.........





A new clutch outer with rivets is on the way..........................


.

Ray I tripled checked with Ohlins I ordered and revived the correct shock for a
89-90 TA model HO836

http://www.ohlins.com/Our-products-new/Motorcycle/Products/Dual-sport/HO-836/


I measured my bike before and after installation and I did not loose any ground clearance. I'm comfortable with what I ordered and installed. It's what Ohlins makes for our bike and I agree. That dosnt mean one couldn't order a longer version but that's not what I wanted. I wanted stock ride height and that's what I got.

As Dan said before, really first TA's have lenght different shock.
I think, those had also bushing instead of bearings in linkages.

What happened to your stock side and front fairings?
Looks like mine has same color as yours and I might be interested to have some in spare, I really like this stock green color scheme.. :)