It's just money and you can't take it with you. Remember, "See and Be Seen" is not just a motto, it's survival. Better to invest in that instead spending on Blings and Farkels...
Right on the mark there Bill .. Thats where all my efforts went when I first started doing my mods ... Two sets of PIAA lights ... HID headlight ... and a charging system that will actually push it ... That was way more expensive than my " sound stage " All it has to do is " save me once " ... and I will be more than happy. Went for a little squirt today ... just around the corner ( 400 km's ) with the Two Eric's on board ( Burton & Clapton ) . Just makes it that more enjoyable. Tomorrow the beach again I am thinking ( loving this extended summer ) that will be a two tank ride. http://www.flickr.com/photos/76222963@N02/6794838246/in/photostream
Just woke up to 3"/8 cm of new snow on the ground. Was going to bring SWMBO 1992 Miata home out of storage today. Wanted to get it washed/waxed and lubed up for her. Now I think I'll just pay for another month of storage and concentrate on the hack. Will of God and all that.
Yer but when the sun is shinning ( those magical three days of the year ) you have some absolutely beautiful scenery to ride in . Would love to come back for another spin around Washington ( still got my bike at a friends house just outside of Camas ) the only problem is that I still have a unpaid speeding fine waiting for me.
Well, just don't get pulled over again. BTW, the east side of the state of Washington is a desert from July through October. Best time of the year to ride!
But the tat little pocket it the far west ... The Rain forest , Beaver Lake etc ... That was magical ( and no I am not a Twlight Fan ) . Just a shame that I was doing a Portland ... Seattle ... then lopped down 101 back to Portland in just 2 days . I really should have put aside alot more time and enjoyed that ride ( and not get a ticket )
Just ordered the LEDs. this is what I ended up picking out: 2 - WLED-BHP Blue 1 - WLED-GHP Green 1 - 74-BHP3 Blue 1 - 74-GHP3 Green 1 - 74-RHP3 Red Total cost with slow boat shipping = $28.31. As soon as they get here, I'll get them installed and start taking pics.
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For the LED bulbs mentioned in this thread, yes they are significantly brighter. For turn signals and stop bulb locations, this is a "Good Thing!" Differing opinions will prevail on the INDICATOR bulbs for the dash - depending on which bulb will fit your application, there are some that are brighter than others. I prefer somewhat brighter idiot bulbs since I ride mostly during the day. For many applications, there are usually a few different bulb options that have more or less LEDs in them, allowing you to choose a level of brightness. In other words a 45-LED bulb will be brighter than an 18-LED bulb. Same concept for the dash bulb replacements. I don't know the details about the dash bulbs for a 95 RT, but if you can provide pictures and measurements I'd be happy to recommend some SBLED.com replacement ideas. When I get home tonight I will post some 1156/1157 recommendations (or you can scan the prior posts in this thread). I used the 45-LED 1156 bulbs and I love them... Brighter AND significantly less power draw.
I´ve the ¨pod¨ you are refering to in your post nr. 83. My ¨Rider´s Manual¨ state that oil pressure, neutral and high beam telltales are 1.2W. Instrument cluster, turn indicator repeater and charge telltale are 3W. Total of 8 telltales. Telltale. Funny word. Where did that come from? I guess leaving the charge light as is, is best. Since I drive a good deal at dark, I don´t want the ¨pod¨ very much brighter. Hans Norway
I installed all the LEDs (except the gen) plus the speedo/odo. None of them are working. Will start trouble shooting today. Oh, the gen light does work, so I know I'm getting juice to the idiot cluster. Any ideas? I have tried turning them all around in the sockets, and have tried turning the sockets 180 degs. Still nothing. Next step is to pull them all out, replace them with the incandescents I removed. Make sure that they work. Then one at a time until I can get them all lit up.
I changed to LED on all my lights. Alot brighter and saved just under a volt ( as far I could tell by using the the old Volt metre and using my eye ). When doing the indicators .. you will have to replace the "flasher" relay or you will get "hyper" indicators ( flashing rapidly ). I replaced mine with a cheap one ebay from China for $2 ... and it worked great for a few days ( so about was about 50¢ a day ). I then got some orange LED strip lights and placed then on the lower crash bars ( about $10 worth ) and that solved that problem whilst giving me more " presence" . One thing I could never work out was that the rear bulbs worked fine whilst I couldn't get my front ones to work .. and they are now just standard. I also replaced the front park light with two strips of LED's on a piece of plastic .. which not only work great .. but freed up some valuable space in bike so I could install my speaker cables. ( will post some pics today of these ) I spent a bit more getting this fancy rear stop light bulb that flashes when brake is applied and have had a few guys comment on who well that works in getting attention ( I am not sure if its " legal " .. but hey if I get pulled over I will be telling the cops of the improved safety of it ) WU7X .. there is a guy up your way in Seattle that has been doing the LED cluster replace kits for K's for a long time . I did email him a few months back if he had them for the R's ... he didn't but was interested if I supplied him the info he would be able to source the correct bulbs ( which I never did ) This is his details smithduck@gmail.com
Well, the 74-xHP3s are NOT polarized, but the WLED-xHPs ARE. Flipping those around in the socket and then flipping the socket itself is a start. BUT, at the bottom of the "More Info" page for the WLED-xHPs, there is a hover link on the text "Wedge Base Socket Contact Notes" that shows the following diagram: I'm pretty sure that the laminated contact boards for the sockets on these type pods are opposing side polarity (like FIG. 2). BUT, put your eyeballs to the test with all parts in hand to determine if you maybe need to cut the leads on either side as described. Also, your idea of troubleshooting one bulb at a time is a GOOD one. It may be that multiple faulty bulb orientations are disturbing the flow of electricity to the others. Figure out why the WLEDs aren't working in their respective spots first, then move on to the individual 74s. I found that using dielectric grease helped things slide together a bit more easily and possibly improve electrical contact on the pins. Grease the inner sockets of the bases and the outer contacts too. Make sure that none of the printed circuit board "flaps" have shifted or flopped around or gotten pinched somehow. You might want to pull the headlight bezel to take a look at the fuses, just in case. Also, make sure the kill switch is in the run position, and the key is in the ON position instead of PARK. Stick with it, be patient, and you'll get it! I did, so I know you can.
Well Madman, we might want to follow along with WU7X's progress first then! But if you are positive the inner workings are the same as the /6 and /7 pods, then my recommendations would be the same as for WU7X (and amended as needed). Here's the wedge bulb page at superbrightleds.com: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/mini-wedge.html If you don't want things too much brighter, I would suggest staying away from the HP (high power) type bulbs, and also shoot for the single LED options. The best thing I can suggest is to pull a bulb of each type and cross-reference the dimensions with those listed at SBLEDS.com specification pages for each bulb. They have dimensions for every bulb they offer. This way you will know what fits in the socket and the pod housing. I know that the options I have suggested for WU7X will fit the pod but we just need to see his success before we know they for sure work. I can't think of a reason why they won't. Even if you have to go with a bulb that is an HP variety with multiple LEDs, you can do as I am contemplating - paint over an LED or two with liquid electrical tape to reduce the intensity of the light. Now, for the actual turn signals I can heartily recommend the Tower type 1156/1157 bulbs. In particular the 1156-x45-T. They throw out a TON of light in the turn signals. Of course, if you use LED turn signals, you will probably need an electronic flasher relay or resistors in each circuit. Do you have one or two turn signal indicator lights in the dash? If you have only one, you will absolutely need a electronic flasher relay (like the Kisan) to prevent an "all flash at once" condition. For the stock taillight bulb, I would go with the 1157-R45-T. You might need a resistor here, but your bike is similar enough to mine that I don't think you will. If you do have to use a resistor, it would negate any power-savings that might have been gained, but you will have brighter, longer lasting bulbs at least.
Here is just a couple of quick pics I took. First one is the home made park light .. just a strip of plastic with three strips of LED lights on it ... Works a charm http://www.flickr.com/photos/76222963@N02/6817329026/ The next one you can see LED strips on the lower crash bars ... By using these I was able to still have the original flasher relay without getting " hyper flash " and just an extra bit of presence. http://www.flickr.com/photos/76222963@N02/6817329030/in/photostream/ and finally in all her glory . Not the greatest angle . The lights in the air vents , whilst slightly blocked do give out about 3/4's of the effect http://www.flickr.com/photos/76222963@N02/6963491635/in/photostream I do have plans to install a whole lot more of LED running lights ( About another 15 metres of them ) but thats when the rain sets in here ... Too busy riding with all this glorious weather . We will be spending the weekend down the beach again
Just to give an indiction ... This is what a " Baby Roo " can do at 60km's . It was a one jump onto the bonnet and then it just jumped off into the bush . No one was hurt and lucky it was their " bunky" car. PS that my youngest covering up the number. http://www.flickr.com/photos/76222963@N02/6817441422/in/photostream
I was watching a video of a BMW on youtube that had an altercation with a Kangaroo, those things are a hazard to navigation! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpcz1qcxYuA
