"Not exactly," 8gv! The "choke" (starting enricher) has nothing to do with the diaphragm; rather, when ON, the enricher plunger is withdrawn from its orifice in the carb body, permitting fuel to flow; simultaneously, a proximate air passage is opened. Acting as a "mini-carburetor," the consequent fuel-rich mixture is admitted directly into the carburetor venturi, without involving the diaphragm at all. A metal "choke" cable cap is available from Stead Engineering. A good primer on a carb very similar to your CVK34 can be found here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm
My electronic flasher was plug-n-play. I can't find the part number but I got it and bulbs from superbrightleds.com. Worked out well.
I know this subject has been beat like the proverbial "dead horse". Beat it like a dead horse, maybe that's the answer:) Seriously, I'm at my wits end with my latest purchase(1994 klr250. 1000 miles on odometer) It had to be started with a shot of ether when I bought it. I figured, no problem, just a simple carb clean and done. I own a 88 klr, that I rehabbed, so I know a little about the bike. Got her home and pulled and cleaned carb. Found that it had obviously sat still for a long time in its life( bowl gasket really dry and brittle) replaced that. After back together, still won't crank. Unless you shoot a little throttle body cleaner into airbox. Cranks and idles great if that's done. Like 2 kicks! I have done everything I can find on advrider to fix it. Adjusted valves Cleaned carb again Changed plug Still nothing! I know some jackwagon has been into this carb before me because of the boogered screw heads and the aftermarket choke. The have replaced the stock choke assembly with the kind that screws right into the carb with a pull knob. It seems like it does what it's supposed to( blocks or opens the orifice under the diaphragm). Am I missing something? Is it time to roll it outside and burn it? Did I mention I'm frustrated?
That really sounds like a carb issue, which can be a PITA to fix. I'd say pull the carb (again) for detail cleaning, and use thin wire to clean the jet orifices. Sometimes cleaner, even the spray, won't get those clean.
It's what I'm leaning toward too. I've had it apart twice and cleaned and sprayed. Ill break her down again tomorrow evening and try to run some wires through every hole I can:) Ill let you know if that's the fix I'm looking for. I'm certainly not a mechanic, but carb issue is what I keep going back to.
The choke replacement may be trouble. The "choke" is really a fuel enrichment circuit that feeds extra vacuum to the diaphragm. This raises the fuel needle without the air butterfly being opened thus resulting in a richer mixture. When pulled, the cable, or knob in this case, pulls a brass pin through a horizontal bore. In that bore there are air passages that allow the extra vacuum to be delivered to the diaphragm. The stock set up has a plastic 90* fitting that carries the cable. This fitting is held in place by a plastic nut. If either of these parts are cracked, engine vacuum will suck air from the atmosphere rather than the extra circuit leading to the diaphragm. This is not uncommon on these bikes. I'd bet the choke knob set up is leaking air. A long shot to trouble shoot it would include some plumber's putty. Pull the knob out. Kick twice. No start? Thoroughly wrap the knob, rod and whatever with the putty. The idea is to eliminate ANY air leaking around it. Kick twice. Vroom? It needs a new choke cable or a better knob. If the '88 KLR250 wants to help... Remove the choke cable set up from it and put it on the new one. Make sure the plastic parts are not cracked. When I bought mine the start procedure was to kick 20 times, rest for ten minutes, kick 20 more, go lay down on the couch for fifteen minutes.... Now it starts, stone cold, hot and everything in between in ONE KICK!
Does anyone know what size spanner wrench is needed to remove the steering stem locknut? I measured from one end to the other at the widest part (in other words not in the notches) with calipers and it was 38mm, so does that mean I need a 38mm spanner wrench? If I measured the diameter from the notches, it was about 34mm. To be honest, I don't know how to size a spanner wrench, but just measuring the diameter of the locknut made sense to me. EDIT: Well, never mind. I didn't realize these were supposed to be installed only hand tight. Turns out a set of pump pliers loosened it up easily!
Removed carb again. Anybody in central alabama need a carb off your klr, I'm the man! I've had plenty of practice. Checked everything again. Pilot circuit is clean. I ran wire through the jet and found it clean. Sprayed carb cleaner into hole jet is in and it sprayed out into the throat of the carb. Checked my compression( reaching for anything at this point) it was in spec at 90 psi. The aftermarket choke knob looks great but I will try to test it later in the week. If you have any other ideas, throw them out there. Really wanting to get this thing running. I bought it for my son to ride part of the tat with me late summer. He needs to get lots of seat time in before then!
Did you run wires through the two pressed in air jets that are on the bottom edge of the intake side bell of the carb? These two, non-removable jets were plugged (after multiple soakings and sprayings). Once I drilled my smallest welding tip cleaning wire through them the bike started on the second kick. Good luck. rube
Almost there... The last remaining part I'm waiting for, the generator cover gasket, is supposed to be here tomorrow. So far, this is what I've done: Checked and adjusted valves Flushed and Refilled Coolant Oil and filter changed Chain and sprockets replaced (14/44 JT sprockets, EK O-ring chain, 520 pitch) Carburetor cleaned, stock jets installed Steering stem bearings greased Front fork seals and oil changed (15wt Bel-Ray oil) Replaced spark plug Restored plastics with heat gun and carnauba wax Replaced battery Fixed some sloppy wiring issues Rebuilt petcock Tightened and loctited a shit-ton of loose bolts/nuts Cleaned and oiled air filter Replaced brake line with Galfer SS braided; flushed and refilled brake fluid Installed inline fuel filter Mirrors replaced and mirror mount installed on left side Rear LED turn signals installed Electronic flasher relay installed Tail light lens replaced Rear chain guide replaced Toolbag replaced with Seahorse SE300 case All that is left to do is pull the flywheel, retrieve my dropped feeler gauge, bolt her back up, and put oil back in. I really, really, really, really hope she'll be good to go. I have a feeling I'll have the carburetor off a few more times... I've never messed with a carburetor and then put it back on without further tweaking... Hopefully I'll have her covered in mud before the weekend!
Wow thats a mean looking dog its eyes are glowing ya sure it isnt possessd?,both bike and dog are looking good tho
Haha. He's a 70lb lap dog who's really just a big baby... But certainly does a good job of looking the part of a mean dog! He's also got two different colored eyes, so they always appear funky in pictures. Here's a less mean-looking picture of Diesel: Oh, and so that I don't get this conversation too sidetracked, the part I'm waiting for still hasn't come in... Grrrr!
Replaced the clutch springs awhile back with EBC springs, and the pull is soooo bad that I really hate trail riding. Haven't had a hand cramp up this bad since I was 13 . Gonna put some factory springs in there, which will make this at least time #4 that I've changed the water pump gasket
Arrowhead markets an extended clutch arm, Part # 20-4400, fitting KLR650's that may work on a KLR250. This product increases leverage from the force of the clutch cable pull; the EBC clutch springs may be manageable with this product, pricey though it may be!
