Hi, the ManRacks has a small sheet metal support under the fender. It bolts to the end of the subframe, and comes up with a large tab that supports the rack. It helps stabilize the fender somewhat......I dont run turnsignals so cant say about the extra weight that signals may add. Overall I think the rack works real good!
Hey, guys! I just did the drilling, shimming and oil change on my piggy's front fork. I wanted to make the fork tool, but a seasoned grease monkey instructed me on by-passing the tool. You don't need any special tools if you don't want to change the seals. Just folow these steps: - set the adjusters to fully open - go to a vice - turn the fork leg upside-down - wrap a piece of cloth around it and tighten the vice leaving, about 10 cm between the floor and the upper cap - take 32mm socket an put it under the cap's hexagon to protect the adjuster screw; compress the fork by pulling twards the vice and put something underneath the socket to keep it compressed - untighten the lower cap(upper, when it's upside-down); the compression will keep it from rotating(so, no special tool) -drain the oil -take out the leg from the vice and do your stuff. Put it back using the same technique. You can do it whitout a vice compressing it with your body weight, but the vice saves you time and it's damn handy. Another way of avoiding the fork tool is to use a pneumatic wrench with adjustable torque. #when screwing it back on, do it by hand at first; -then tighten it to the appropiate torque(54Nm) Have fun! Dragos
Yeah I tried to use a normal screwdriver on my JIS screws in my carb. They almost all stripped. I had to use a dremel to slot them and get them out. I have replaced them all. I now also own a JIS screw driver.
Motorcycle Consumer News had an article on using JIS screwdrivers on Japanese-made motorcycles (and other machinery/vehicles, I would presume). I believe it is the March 2013 edition, right on the back page. I just read it on Friday, so your statement was very timely. Mine, not so much....
getting my parts list for 2013 ready, including the oil sight tube. for anybody who has done it, would the rotating swageloc fitting fit the bill, or would it cause issues? Here is the LINK to the fitting.
Mitchn06, I have 13 years experience with hydraulic/ pneumatic equipment and IMO I would prefer to use a tapered fitting ( BSPT or NPT) for this application. Using the parallel thread that you have shown in the link would be great if you could ensure the sealing surface it was going to mate to was indeed flat. A tapered thread will be cheaper as well. In all honesty I would use a brass fitting and tapered NPT or BSPT, these are a dime-a-dozen as opposed to the Swagelok fittings in SS316. However when using compression fittings and clear nylon tube as seen in this modification it would be wise to use a spigot. It is basically a small tube type design that slides up the internal ID of the tubing and this allows the compression olive to bite into the tubing a bit better, provides a backbone to the connection. These compression fittings are usually used with steel tubing, when an olive compresses onto the tube it will not deform like a piece of flexible clear nylon tube will. Thus allowing the olive to bite into the tubing more effectively. Just my opinion, but save yourself some $$$'s and use a tapered brass fitting with a spigot.
Just put on a Mikuni TM40. Oh my god. This carburetor fixes everything wrong with this bike. I have a quick tuning question. When I first started my bike with the Mikuni it took a long time to warm up and let me touch the throttle even though it was 65F outside. The second I barely cracked the throttle the motor would die. It seemed to run way better on the choke until it got warm and then all of a sudden I could start to rev it like normal. First though? Pilot is too lean. Well, my theory was wrong. It ran way worse with the pilot richened up 1/4 turn. It actually responded better with the pilot leaned out a 1/4 turn from stock (idle revs went up, responded better to quick blips of the throttle). Now unfortunately my battery was dead from sitting and I think I was experiencing problems because I didn't have strong enough ignition until the battery charged up a bit....I think... However, I have a slight hesitation when I barely crack the throttle open and hold it open at like 1/32th opening. It might be because of the way I tuned the accelerator pump. I adjusted it so the lever is about 1mm away from touching at idle, so it takes about 1mm of throttle opening before it actuates. From the factory the lever was actually touching at idle and I didn't think it should be that way but I don't know. BTW, this carb came prejetted from power-barn specifically for the XR650R, but I'm not sure what is in it because I didn't crack anything open and take a look and they don't list it. Other than those two very minor problems this carb rips! It's perfect! It's hard to keep the front end on the ground!!! I live at under 1,000ft ASL, it was 65F, I have a K&N filter (which I want to replace with a UNI), fully uncorked, White Brothers E2, emissions stuff removed, still stock on everything else though.
phorensic: I'm located in Riverside, CA and have the same mods as you... Here are my TM40 specs Pilot - 27.5 Pilot Air - 1.2 Jet Needle - 9DJY1 Needle Jet - Y6 Clip - 2.5 Main - 140
Thanks for the info!! Where have you adjusted the accelerator pump to? Does it touch the lever at fully closed throttle? And can you remember how many turns out your pilot is? I had a feeling I need to put a 140 main in, they included a few mains with the kit. Although WOT top speed runs feel really, really, really strong, lol! It does shoot a bit of black smoke out when I rev it really hard over and over, but that may be because it is a pumper carb and it's not under load when I do that??
Well... to be honest, i'm not convinced that the 140 is perfect for me. i just have not gotten around to dialing that part in yet. I got it good, and have been enjoying it. I have the pumper coming on as you crack the throttle, but there is a very small delay. I dont recall where my fuel screw is at, I think it was 2 or 2.5 out.
Mitch, refer Zoro's reply, he said it all. Tapered is indeed the way to go, the surfaces aren't flat at all. Also, use red locktite to 'glue' them in, you don't want them to sweat or leak. Clean screen & flush afterwards eh? This mod gives enormous piece of mind oil-wise, seeing (whilst riding!) is believing. On the TM40, I also have a little 'play' between rod & plunger, to leave a bit of delay before the squirting starts.
On the TM 40... I have a bit of delay (1/16th throttle maybe?) before the squirt comes on. I was having the same issues as you are having right now.
IF you have a battery it won't affect how the bike runs. It's run strictly off the stator. The battery is there to even out voltage at idle and keep your lights on after the bike. Separate system from ignition. I jetted mine (still needs tuning a bit) at 3500 ft, but have rode it lots at sea level all the way up to 12,000. 27.5, 140, 3rd clip I believe, forget about spacer location?, factory nozzle shipped on powerbarn units. It'll at least get you running if you havent figured it out. I had similar issues with it not wanting to start and run as well when first bolted up. It was all jetting adjustments.
I first thought the ignition should be running solely off the stator when it starts. I couldn't explain why the bike wouldn't let me rev it for about 3 minutes even with heat billowing off the header and radiators already. My theory was that the battery was so dead the stator was putting most the juice into charging it and I had really weak ignition. It was idling like crap and wouldn't let me even breath on the throttle. Then all of a sudden after about 3 minutes I could blip the throttle super fast. I think I'm just going to play with the AP delay for now.
Fixed it by putting more delay in. You could probably accomplish the same thing by changing jets as well, but it runs like a top how i have it set up. Just try it, it takes all of 10 seconds to adjust.
Cool, thanks for all the info guys! My streetbike did the same damn thing this morning! Maybe higher ethanol contents and all the moisture we have had recently got sucked up into my gas tanks? Oh well, whatever.
Get rid of that K&N, esp if you plan on running a different filter and are in the process of dialing in the carb. It's recommended that you start at the bottom and work your way up when dialing in the jetting, main jet being last. It sounds like it's pretty close though. If you've found the best spot for your fuel mixture screw, count the turns in and that will tell you if the pilot jet is correct or too large/small. The Sudco tuning manual that came with the TM40 has a pretty good writeup on dialing in this carb. If you take a methodical approach to jetting the carb you can get it dialed in fairly quickly. If you decide to drop the main, raise the needle (anotherwords 2 changes at once) it's going to take you awhile. One thing I found, one persons jetting rarely works for someone else. The TM40 can be a sensative bitch, temps, alt, minor motor differences all play a factor in it. I'd have mine running really sweet one day, 2 weeks later we'd ride a few thousand feet higher and 20 degrees colder and it'd feel off. Good luck!
Guys, Went riding this morning and have a upcoming trip too. Have some Kendra 270's on the front and rear and they were not any good in the sloppy stuff. ( sand, mud and hill climbs.) I need a great " all Terrain" tire. I'm not worry about wear on the highway as this bike is mainly for advrides and trail rides. So what do y'all suggest. I was riding really wet muddy trails today and the front had 0 control.
