Looks like my previous DR! You can go with a 16 tooth c/s sprocket. That will lower the RPM @ 65. However, it will make it harder to wheelie. If I misunderstood, then drop a tooth to 14 (15 is stock). It's hard to add teeth to the rear sprocket since the SE has the shorter chain (108 links versus 110). If you're going to get new sprockets and a chain, you can use the 110 link chain and have a lot more flexibility. Ron Ayers will have the the bulbs. You'll need three (if they're all burned out). I forget which one you'll need but it's one of these two: 09471-12085 (3 watt) or 09471-12100 (1.7 watt). If you pull your burned ones out, the wattage is printed on the base of the bulb. If the speedo case is broken, Ayers has that, too; ~$35.
I had a felling you were gon buy it. My 350 tach light is out as well. I just figured it didnt have one and it never bothered me enough to check it.
http://www.suzukidr350.com/suzukidr...cities/factoryspecificationsandcapacities.htm http://www.suzukidr350.com/
Bike is nice but would have liked to seen that million dollar smile of your lady saying "ya, this will work".
Hey Neepuk, do you have a pic of the bike after it was lowered for comparison? How tall is the wife? I'm looking at getting one myself, the bike that is, but I dont care for the stock height.
I'll put another pic or two up when I ad the lowering links. I bought some from another adver... they're in the mail. She's only 5'3" and she's been riding it almost every day around town, to work... Getting used to it as much as possible before we head to Death Valley in Jan. I just bought a DR650 and it turns out that it's almost as low as the 350. She had a huge smile on her face after I let her take that one around the block.
I want to get some racks for my DR350 to keep some soft bags away from the muffler etc. Can anyone guide me to to pictures of such racks (without the bags attached)?
One thing I found on these bikes is that if you eventually do decide to go to a more street oriented set of tires, that'll buy you an extra half an inch of lowering overall vs. big knobs....just FYI
Hey neepuk, did you get that bike from a guy in Santa Clara? If so, I looked at that bike and I am kinda kickin myself for not picking it up. Glad it worked out for you. I'm still looking though.
Check with Turbo city, they seem to have a nice rack set up. It is the rack system i'll be buying once i sell a couple of my other bikes. Gregg
If anyone does not know, I am a happy owner of a DR350. I have grown, over the 500 miles I have pu t on it, to really like this bike. First it is Modless. Other than the Carb has been tweaked. shimmed the needle and adjusted the mix screw. It is a freakin' wheelie machine! Roll idling, then twist on it about half way, BAM! front end comes up soooo naturally! Handles in the dirt great, road not too bad, but that is a tire issue. the Only thing I have an issue with is the clutch. kinda mushy. Not too crisp. I have read a little bit on the washers in the basket, but was looking for more detailed info on it. Can any of you enlighten me?
The washers you are asking about are the thrust washers, they wear and will need to be replaced. Here is a link that shows the location of the washers, they are item # 2. http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0141/clutch/clutch.cfm?man=su&groupid=940&parent=910 Also if you replace the washers remove a bit of material from the back of the clutch hub (# 4) to allow the nut to be torqued without binding up the clutch. I an not sure this is your problem, sounds more like a bad clutch cable not letting the clutch engage completely. Worn washers can cause a problem getting into neutral more often then causing a weak clutch. Bad clutch springs can also cause the problem you are talking about. Another problem is the shifter drum bolt will back out and get caught on the clutch, shears off and trashes the motor. Easy to fix with a little loctite. If the bike is jumping out of first or second gear this needs to be looked at ASAP. I have a DR 350se with the magic button, what a great bike.
I am pretty sure it is the washers. Its a bitch to get into first once it is warmed up and you are sitting still. Hasn't jumped out of gear... yet.
Look here for a prettty detailed explanation of the procedure. http://www.suzukidr350.com/images/dr350/scottentoptics/Clutch_Overhaul.pdf I did this. I actually used a mill to remove the material, but you could do it as shown if you are careful.
I was looking for this last night and could not locate. I followed these instruction when I reworked my bike. While I had it all apart I put loctite on the drum bolt.
