1150 running rough under 3k RPM

The first three replies to your post (including Roger's #1 recommendation) were referencing stick coils yet your pulling the tank an tearing into the o2 sensor and booster plug?

Wirepro, thank you for helping me zoom out.
As mentioned earlier, this afternoon i will confirm (or infirm) the behavior before the closed loop kicks in.

if so i would have to try the O2 sensor disconnect. Here is where your comment is pertinent (quit rolling your eyes) , i will go through the sticks again before tanks comes off

Roger, does the booster plug intervene before or after the connector?


vacuum leak: i tried spraying some brake cleaner on the throttle body ( before and after the injectors) to temporarily seal any air gap and see if the idle rpm would raise.... Any where else i should look?

What I did was purchase 3 fuel injection connectors, 2female and one male. A female connected to the stock IAT, to the output of the BP and the male connector plugged into the harness going into the Motronic. When you put them in series you get a 30C drop. The iice air product has a 30C setting if someone you know has one.

all right, here it goes

Took the bike out, not using the idle accelerator ( coz the'r ain't no choke), rode rough even before hitting the first bar on temp display, so this negated my test in the rain yesterday....

so back to drawing board and now to the stickies.

i did 3 weeks ago , removing the secondary plugs as i read Step toe performing the test that way

" Don't disconnect the stick coil - the best test is to keep them in place and remove the secondary/lower spark plug cap and see if runs on just the stick coil plugs.

No "if's" or "buts" that way - It'll either run on one side only or not at all __________________" step toe 9/18/2011

so first i disconnected the primary while engine running. : R side off : no difference at all
L side off : noticeable difference at idle

so then i disconnected the lower plugs ; R side off : very rough running at idle ( relying on R stick coil)
L side off : hardly any difference

Wirepro, please stop rolling your eyes...

so tells me likely the R stick coil going bad and should be the first thing to change. I suppose it's better to change them both at the same time, right? Any particular brand or OEM?

PS: i did not notice a difference of this magnitude when i did it 3 weeks ago. So does it get worse and more noticeable with time?? ( I suppose if they re progressively going bad ) I thought it would be like a switch ( on or off type situation)

Awaiting sarcasm.... although by the number of views on this thread, i m sure i m not the only one learning...

I looked all over hell for a better deal. Ended up paying ~$115 each at the dealer. It hurt at the time but I was grinning from ear to ear on my first ride with two new sticks.

No one will be sarcastic. I worked an issue on my bike today that led to my rid being blank, the fuel pump dead and the bike not starting--I bumped the kill switch while replacing an instrument cluster bulb. Coils look like a good call.

i will report back when getting new ones. fingers crossed

i want to thank you both and others for the help.
We sure learn a lot from people like you willing to share their knowledge/experience

long live ADV

well , no grin on the face...

As a matter of fact, connect new sticks ( $260 :eek1), reset the motronics
and symptoms got dramatically worse , :
I can unplug stick on either side without changing the idle much ( only slight variance) !!!
and the bike became almost un -rideable .on the road
. New: if i blip the throttle, there is significant delay and at times engine dies


Fuel pump works and has new fuel filter as it showed starving on the freeway today, but that is not it.
back home and checked throttle cable, fuel lines for pinching etc... sparks at all plugs, air filter (to make sure)...
reset brass screw...vent lines

the plugs looked very black but easily removed ( fresh black) prolly to be expected at this time

i feel i'm overlooking something simple but what would it be.

so call to the team again

thank you

This is hard to do from a distance but the symptoms you're describing sound like one of the fuel line quick disconnects isn't seated. I have had the return QD not seat and the motorcycle runs, but not well.

If that's not the problem, go over things slowly.

At some point you may want a GS-911 which would let you know what the inputs and outputs to the Motronic are doing and also whether there is an error code.

QD were fine . so today , tried the stick coil swap : disconnecting R side hardly changes the idle, L side more noticeable but no real stumble ( did it with 3 different sticks)

so i decided to remove tank and disconnected O2sensor +motronic reset : no difference in behavior

Now i m thinking fuel starvation as short, quick blips almost kills the engine or at least delays the response. Gradual opening is almost fine but then engine sputters. i remove tank, take out fuel pump and clean all parts including bran new fuel filter. reassevmble, reset motronics again......... Same behavior !!!


Injector plugged? Would be extraordinary coincidence that this happens as i put new sticks, no?How does one clean them without sending out
Could the cable leading to the Right stick go bad? How? Why? Close examination of visible cable looks intact
Could the one coil for secondary plugs be the culprit? Well no ,as the cylinder runs on bottom plug only!

I still feel has to be some simple but i don t have enough experience with these. Love learning though...
Any insight is valued in this garage..

http://f650cs.wikidot.com/fuel-injector-cleaning

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY

Thanks wirepro,

I looked at similar videos .

I d like to be more convinced that it is a fuel supply issue vs electrical before taking those out but maybe that needs to happen...

I may gather a few more,experienced advice , and go by priority

Keep them coming

I'm still thinking stick coils. Perhaps if you disconnect them again (the new ones) clean the connectors with contact cleaner and inspect the pins to ensure you haven't bent or broken one and then carefully re-connect ensuring they are fully home.

Because of the way this presented, we didn't discuss fuel pressure or return volume.

The pressure in the feed line should be roughly 43.5 psi. While idling the amount of fuel pumped back to the tank should be about 2 liters in 60 seconds. The return test isn't too hard but you have to be careful handling the gasoline with a running engine. If you pass the second test probably everything in the tank, esp. hoses are okay.

so yesterday,

went through the whole thing again and also cleaned the injectors with carb cleaner (unpressurized so i know it had limited effect). Re-assembled the whole thing THEN noticed that the spring pin for the TPS was not very tight !!!

It has to explain the recent rougher riding . so i continued re-assembling but with a smile on my face ... sure enough, started and runs like a charm this AM going to work.

So initial diagnosis still stands : R stick coil went bad

Happy and grateful to my fellow ADV'ers I am

SWEET!

I love that you didn't give up and take it to the dealer.

2004 dual plug R1150gs. In uganda driving as slow as possible. Slipped in mud and tipped over on right side in mud. Shut down within a few seconds w kill switch. Leg banged TPS but it does not look like it moved. Could find no visible damage. Started hard and runs rough. Can excellerate if done very slow. little power at low rpm. Power comes back and starts having power but still rough if you can get above 4000rpm then comes In strong at 6000rpm. All throttle cables seem in place. Changed plugs. There are very sooty. Rich! If you open throttle quick it just coughs and cuts out or dies.

I did adjust valves and TB sync and new plugs etc.. Just before trip 400km ago. But was running good until I tipped.

Fiddled with throttle cable adjustments could make it worse but could not make it better. I can get home in a few days where I have new injectors and fuel filter. Can then get access to GS 911 diagnostic. If I can limp home.

I can just get into 5th gear on flat and get into 6th gear down hill

Ok. Found the problem. The TPS board cracked. Was not able to get voltage for adjustment per wisdom only could get 4.8 volts at full throttle. Also high to infinite resistance on pin 1 & 4. Cut it open. Was able to use knife and scrap the carbon strip and make it better.

Now just need to find new TPS and guard!!!!!