DRZ400s. Is there a direct comparison between the 60 and the 62? It is hard to tell which would be better. I think the 62 would look better installed in place of the original headlight like that Yam, the 60 I would probably mount to the headlight guard bottom tab. like this one: Really would depend on the better lighting for seeing further ahead for faster safer night riding, as well as exposing shoulder lurking attack deer. One of those and the dimmer be all I need to run it through my high/low beam switches and run it in traffic?
I have a set of Model 60's and a set of M62's on my bike. The model 60 is a flood, the M62 is a spot. While the model 60 is rated at more lumens, the light does not travel nearly as far as the the M62. Conversely, the M62 doesn't have the side fill (flood pattern) that the model 60 has. I personally think the flood pattern would be better on your type of bike. You might want to consider running a combo, i.e. one model 30 and one model 44/60 etc (spot on the left, flood on the right).
Hey Sanjoh, Just noticed that the lenses on both of my Model 44's I bought about a month ago have cracked. Any way to get replacement lenses?
No direct comparison other than what you see above. The setup you suggested appears to have uneccesary weight and complexity. I would recommend the Dualsport Fairing, it is nearly bulleproof and works wonderfully for all types of riding and a pair of 60s will not have you wanting for more light.
If you mean the headlight guard, it came on the bike. And I figure the more weight over the front wheel the better right.
Well in that case, go for it. I thought you were purchasing the guard. I find the front end a bit heavy on the Z, I ride mine in the sand often. The front end tends to push, unlike other bikes that I have.
Christmas is right around the corner.... a set of M60's are on my list. Just waiting on a "sale". Love my 30's..... ready for my 60's.
Or you could put a 4.50 x 18 rear wheel on the front and back like the PO of my DRZ. Not sure how it performs in sand though, as I am properly landlocked. I was surprised at how well it handled in rutted dirt. But back to the thread at hand: Are there pics of the Yamaha replacement of original headlight? I think even better than a 62, I might be able to mount a 60 and a 61 in the stock headlight space in place of the original headlamp. And then they'd be behind the guard for all the roost I will be getting.
Drilled hole in plastic headlight lens. Opened up the rear of the stock light housing using a dremel to fit the threaded section of the light through. The curvature of the stock headlight reflector did not allow LED light to sit flat, so only a few threads reached the rear of the headlight. I added some quiksteel to the bed the light on the interior of the headlight reflector, used a bit different heatsink than standard. The stock headlight housing is tiny, just over 2" tall, I didn't think the light would fit so I'm happy with the outcome. Especially after riding in the dark last night
I just bought a model 60 to go with my two model 30s. The model 30s aren't on a relay and are controlled with a separate switch. For the single model 60, I'd like to wire it so that it only comes on when the high beams are on. I don't want a separate switch for it. Basically, I want that to become part of the high beams. When the highs are flicked on, I want this on, when they're flicked off, I want this off. I didn't buy the dimmer switch with hi beam bypass because I don't want/need that feature. Can I just splice into the high beam wires? Or would I need some sort of relay? Could anyone draw up a wiring diagram for me? All of the diagrams I've come across aren't for my situation. Thanks.
Max, If it were me, I'd take the power from your high beam switch to toggle a 30 amp relay then feed the output to power both your headlight high beam and John's W60. Use 14 ga. wire from your battery thru a separate 30 amp fuse into the relay and 16 or 18 ga. to each of the lights. Easy enuff to wire up. Keep us posted.
(John, on a side note, I wired my 60 direct thru my high beam switch and the 44 thru the dimmer. Each is operated thru a 30 amp relay. I found the cut-off from the dimmer, no diode in that piece of wire.)
I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to 12V wiring that is more complicated than wiring something directly to the battery. I'm pretty sure this isn't a complicated wiring job... But it is for me! Is there any way that you (or anyone) could draw up a schematic? Sorry to be a pain!
Here is a schematic I just finished for hooking up a couple of LED lights, and integrating switches and LED lights into an HDB Top Clamp.
SteveO, that's a great diagram. I'm doing similar to my DRZ right now. My diagram is pencil on paper. Did you set up a negative system? (Just kidding. on my diagram, my head lights are on the left. :) ) Your wiring in the next pic looks similar too. Rat's nest! So far, everything works tho. Max, wiring is just another skill. Either learn how and pay thru the nose. I'm cheap. (Plus, I've worked with low-voltage, house-hold, aircraft and telco wiring since 1965. I don't claim to be a pro at any of it (now retired) but muscle memory seems to get me thru the process.) SteveO's diagram is good if complex. (Not complicated, there is a big diff.) Just isolate out the part ya need and work from there. Most relays (which you will want to put in, trigger thru bike wiring and toggle switch; load to the lights direct from a fused lead from the battery) have a diagram right on the side. You'll only use 4 terminals, trigger + and -, load voltage in and out. "Far" side of the lights go direct to ground. The load requirement on the LED lights is small enuff you could probably get along without a relay, but doing it right the first time is just better. Hope this helps a little. Keep us posted.
