Pair of F8GSes: To Inuvik, Chicken - AK, Salmon Glacier, Vancouver Island

Don't forget about Lulu... who's a dirty girl?....

Awesome! Now I wanna go back. Keep it coming.

Wow, fantastic photos. I chose the Dalton over the Dempster, but your pictures really make me wish I could have done both.

Well, we finally made it to the Arctic Circle after filling up with food and Gas at Eagle Plains where we met Dave and Gus (our bizzaro twins). We ended up riding and crossing paths for the next 4 days.



Everyone has photos at the Arctic Circle so here's one without us:



From the lookout:

We crossed over into NWT and made our way to Rock River Park.

Obligatory welcome sign picture:



The weather changes so quickly here. They say that if you don't like it, just wait two minutes (or leave). By the time we got to Rock River, it was very warm, sunny and muggy.





Our Zumos had no idea how to handle a sun that never set:



The same people also say (who are those people?) that if the bears don't get you, the bugs will. The bugs at this site (specifically the mosqs) were the worst that I've experienced. Worse than canoeing through interior Algonquin, worse than Labrador... just insanity.

I left my gear on but still got eaten alive.



We retreated to the shelter and found evidence of other not-so-mentally-stable folks like us from Toronto:



And then it started to rain and hail... at least the bugs diminished (a bit). It was a great day and we quickly passed out despite the bugs, rain and ever-bright night. End of Day 7.

I came to this same conclusion on my Dempster trip. It can be a sleeping behemoth (as it was for our trip last year): dry, slightly dusty, but overall very pleasant and serene, or a raging beast: wet, muddy, greasy, and miserable. I've only experienced the sleeping Dempster, but from my experience up there, it won't be the last time I go. Gravel roads are living roads.

Excellent report and pics so far! Keep it coming.

Travis

Day 8 - July 7, 2010

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Ahhh, these damned mosqs, they're having another go at us for breakfast. We quickly packed up and left those fackers behind... on to Inuvik.

We rode through some amazing scenery today; tundra-like areas with a mountain range backdrop. It was quite overwhelming.



I had to quickly re-tighten my chain guard but it lead to an amazing sighting, an Arctic Grey Wolf. It was solitary and watched us with a curious yet tentative stance. It started backing up and retreated while watching us. I tried to take a picture but she had put some ground between us.

Thanks Travis! We were pretty fortunate and only rode about a day of slime and mud. The rest, dry and hard-packed. She was kind to us and yes, I too will go back someday.

They (again, who are those people?) say that the Dempster hates you. Well, it kinda likes us but a combination of a construction project and some bad weather made for a 5 hour delay (12 hours for some). An 8 foot deep and 20 foot wide washout stymied us. We waited with our bizzaro twins from Vancouver (Gus and Dave) while just the Asians were assaulted by the bugs.





Eventually, traffic was permitted to pass through a single lane in the culvert and we were off to our first ferry crossing, a cable ferry across Peel River. With out twins.





Our second river to cross was the Red Arctic River. This ferry operated under its own power. As you can see, the Dempster just kind ends at the river bank and the ramp 'condition' can vary.



And a short commute later, we found the end of the Dempster. Again, obligatory welcome sign. We stayed at the Mackenzie Hotel (a bit pricey) only to find our twins rolling up moments later. Ironically, we had just traveled thousands of kms through cars, wildlife, dirt and mud without any incidents... only for my bike to tip off the centre stand in the hotel parking lot. No damage. No worries, though I have never done that in almost 25 years of riding!

Day 9 - July 8, 2010

We set aside several hours to act like tourists and visited some local points of interest.

Inuvik Welcome Centre:





Igloo Church:





And we were off, going the only direction we could... south to Eagle Plains.

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Same river crossings:

I love the Dempster. It can have a very different feel at any given moment and direction. Heading south was incredible.











An Arctic Fox sighting:



And back to Eagle Plains where we stayed in the motel and enjoyed some steaks and beers. The views from behind the facility span the horizon and are just serene. And, yes, our bizzaro twins were staying here for the night too.

Still enjoying this one...

Day 10 - July 9, 2010

What a morning! Blue skies and warm. Days like this were made for riding. After soaking in some heat and enjoying our hearty breakfast, we were off to Dawson City.

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And we meet our bizzaro twins again, Dave (12GS):



And Gus (KLR):















I hope you're enjoying! To be continued... gotta get some work done.

I'm enjoying your report.

We eventually made our way to Dawson City, YT. It was an early day which allowed us to enjoy this town. What a throw-back! Certain streets practically look untouched from the Gold Rush. We stayed at the Downtown Hotel:











Our horses tied up outside:



Of course, we had to take in the local flavours; gambling, drinking and a show at Diamond Toothless Gerties.









We staggered back to our room and called it a day.

Day 11 - July 10, 2010

After a night of what I imagine the gold rush days were like, we headed to the most logical place for a greasy breakfast, the Midnight Sun Chinese Restaraunt. The breakfast was good and even better, our bizzaro twins were eating there. We were all off to the Top of The World, Chicken and then Beaver Creek.

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After a short ferry across the Yukon River, we headed off to the Top of The World Highway.











Just on the Canada-US border (which is only open 8-8 AST):



Obligatory Alaska welcome sign picture:



On to Chicken, AK. The US side of the highway is a bit looser with a decent but very ridable. Apparently the day after, the road had washed out but we got to this fun town. From the Chicken, Alaska site:

When in Rome, eat chicken.

Day 12 - July 11, 2010

After crossing the border back into Canada, the darkest clouds rolled in and forced us to hole up in a motel in Beaver Creek. Our bizzaro twins were also staying here and this would be the last night that we would see them.

Chris and I wanted to do the Ross River and Canol Road loop so we spent the majority of this wet day heading to Carmacks. The landscaped changed again; becoming relatively flat. Great vistas of the Rockies and some wildlife. We did see a herd of wild horses which was an interesting splash of very different colours and patterns.

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We only took a few photos today:









We got into Carmacks, wet and late and inspected the hotel's watering hole.

Very nice. I'm enjoying this ...

I was on the same stretch of highway July 11th, probably the wettest day of riding I ever experienced, wished I would have stopped in Beaver Creek. Your timing for riding Top of the World couldn't been any better.

A few more pictures for the ride report so far...

Can't remember exactly where... somewhere along 99 or 97...


Outlook along hiking trail in Wolf Creek campground just south of Whitehorse...


View at Arctic Circle...


Mountain view in Alaska...