Two Moto Kiwis Arctic To Antarctic May 2012...

Dan and Sara were heading desert and we had an opportunity to come along so we took it, also my reasoning is Dan had been suffering bad back pain so in case he needed help then I would have him covered.

Setting off from GP we were well behaved with no one wanting to drag a knee, first stop being fuel with a typical 1 hour wait, one attendant servicing six pumps, just ridiculous. :huh

Our intended destination was Belen however with minor holdups at the petrol station and the road deteriorating it cost us valuable time.

As we left the plains the weather caved in slowly but surely, as we rose in altitude the rain raised in attitude, stopping for wet gears on was a great move.

Sara and Dan leading the charge



Up the zig zag the cloud and fog came in to play as well making for an interesting ride, some patches proving harder for Sara with her lowered F658 bottoming out in the larger ruts and wheel potholes made by trucks but to her cred she battled on through with the occasional stop for a break.



Just to add to the interest it narrowed and with a surprising amount of trucks on the road making for interesting passing maneuvers, at this point the truck thumped quietly along Sara’s pannier as he passed, no damage other than to Sara’s undies I think.



Reaching the top we cruised the plateau on the drier side and were welcomed by the warm sun, stopping at one point we sat on the edge of the rain shadow looking down on a zig zag that would make Peruvians jealous.







It was later in the day now so we stopped shy of our target for the night as we still had 85 km of sand infested shingle road so to call it quits before dark was a good move.

The following day we made it to Belen on an easy ride, it was easy enough seeing the sandpits in the daylight, stopping here the night we took in the museum etc and relaxing.



Belen to Antofagasta, a great trip with some tar, some creek crossings and the usual sandpits on the road, we also had a treat of a new road being prepared (apparently it has been being prepared for 4 years) :huh

Over the top at 4000 meters the temperature dropped to 0 degs, Dans snow warning light came on, I decided to put on warm gloves so I pulled off the road and sunk .... so much for covering Dan



Further along the new road we rode (or tried to) around the humps in the middle of the road ...this was a little soft too .... China is not far from where we dug



Look mum no Dan



Sara also stopped for photos ... her photo that is



Righting the stricken ship and a wee push she was off .. go girl!!!



The little humps were then utilized ...didn't stop us.





Somehow I have managed to collect myself a head cold that made me feel second hand to say the least, the saw throat thing chimed in the last night of GP, we tried to drown it with wine to to no avail.

Turns out that Sara also got it as did Ellen so we were a pack of sickies.

Stop for a coupla days and Antofagasta to recoup

Parked up safe and sound in Antofagasta



The interesting route we took, thanks to Walter for the great info and Dan for helping rescue Maya outa the sandpit

Dan and Sara were on a tighter frame than us so only stayed two nights but we made the most of the day heading out with Walter on a tour to the white rocks.

First up sand dunes, mum natures playground inviting the kidults to climb up and run down like silly little kids .... what a feeling hooning down.

This along the way, stunning backdrops



A small lot of plants in a small oasis in a huge expanse



Climbing up



A short break at the top to survey our magic surroundings





The full crew



The view along the ridge



Running down the slope then coming to a stop your feet get buried, the sand underneath is extremely cold.:eek1



Onward to the the white pumice rock and lunch stop, amazing what volcanic activity has displaced over the thousands of years and this place has more volcanos than BMWs parked at Starbucks (sorry Dan).



Lazibones stretching out



Cool rock formations carved out by mum natures high winds and sandblasting machine





Finishing lunch and heading back El Penon was the stopover for a coffee and cake with a relaxing sit in the sun.

Time to head home we went via some hieroglyphics carved into rock estimated to be upwards of 10000 years old.



By this time the sun was going down and it was time to head for home and get sorted, great day out with a good combo or walking, galking and talking.

A small lake with cool clouds



Last of the sun leaving us sending temperatures downwards



The following days we took it easy as I was feeling less than ideal and Ellen started going downhill too, in the evening it was dropping to -10 or so so snuggle up tight under the sheets was the number 1 option, no snuggly buggly tho.

During our stay we were invited to an asado (Bar b q), in true form they said turn up at 10 pm and food will be ready, 10.05 we turned up .....ok we will have a wine or three while we wait.

Just after 11 pm it came out and it was all on, at midnight there was more food with deserts and ice-cream, they then offered coffees etc, Ellen and I were dog tired so opted out preferring to hit the sheets.

Another tour out saw us seeing more hieroglyphs of ancient man again these being placed at 8000 - 10000 years old, incredible history here.

Next on the list, Volcan Galan which turned into a serious sandpit ride, we made it to the Laguna Grande with no problem but we were at 4600 meters and wrestling Maya through the unforgiving sandpits was a mission seeing me give in to the crest of the volcano.


That's as far as we went




On good advice from Carlos on his 350 Yammy Quad it only got worse and steeper even with him struggling so we made the right choice given I had managed to score another head cold from a generous Argie so was feeling a bit second hand.

Here is Carlos and his wife on their Quad at Laguna Grande



Lunch was had before heading back to Antofagasta.

Next mission. Antofalla.

Ok, now that you are done reading the Antotitles I will try and explain my way out of it.

Leaving Antofagasta was a perfect windless day, the road starting out ruff and corrugated and slowly improving to just really bad.

As progress was made we made big elevation and the beauty went up, per elevational changes the temperature plummeted, the saving grace was the warming from the sun which can only be described as bliss.



Cresting the top at a little over 4000 the road was a total sandtrap demanding 150% attention from the nut holding the handbars on, a number of times testing the scotts damper which saved our bacon.

Here is one sand trap, I hit a hidden Murphy rock, Ellen almost caught the moment, this was saved but my undies weren’t.



On to brighter things the first glimpse we got of Salar Antofalla was a breath taking one, the second view at the lookout was heart stopping.....an OMG moment ... no way no even close ... more like a fuck me moment!!



Ellen and I stood there gobsmacked and quiet (that doesn’t happen often) as we surveyed the gift from the scenic gods, words and photos don't come close to the view you get.:eek1:eek1



This is what a happy person looks like



With more colours than a rainbow, longer than any other salar in the world and more to come we could not believe our eyes. ...like this guy --> :eek1:eek1

Salar Antofalla is the longest salar in the world and is simply stunning, this part of northern Argentina is fantastic, you just need good fuel range, good amount of time, good set of spare fillings for your teeth and take in the good views handed to you courteous of Argentina.

Time to carry on and explore, looking north up the salar.



Heading across the salar to the town of Antofalla was more corrugated sandpits one which saw a tank slapper and boggy sandpit consuming Maya to the axles ... .wasn’t expecting that!!! ... ok, lunch I was shagged from wrestling sandpits and view that nearly wore my eyes out.

The sandpit/road we had come across



Arriving at Antofalla was so cool, one hostel basic but good, a hot shower well earned was had before packing it in and dreaming of tarseal.

Antofalla from the view point

WOW!
Awesome scenery.
Beautiful pics

+1

Yes $196 Kiwi is expensive , Im sure i paid less less than half that at KL last year for a covered stand ticket , I just found out Superbikes are going to Sepung but to late to get cheap flights .

Re yr pics , great , I know being there taking the photo is 1000 times better than us looking at them online . Keep them coming . Cheers Toddy

Thanks you sir

Easy to take nice pics when they are handed to you, this place to me is stunning ... so different from New Zealand and I guessing for Venezuela too.

Cheers Andi

Can't disagree with that

Although spendie still about a grand cheaper than flying to OZ and being able to ride there was well cool.

Thank for the props on the pics too mate and yeah being there IS everything

I couldn't agree more !!

Andi, Ellen, I'm pretty sure this kind of pics were not taken on planet Earth...
Tell us the truth, you are in the space program, right?

..... show me your leader, we have come to planet earth to take all the KTMs

Yeah man, that place is unreal, NOTHING even close to it in New Zealand, between northern Chile and north western Argentina I think they are (at least to me) some of the most beautiful and stunning scenery I have seen our our trip

Space program .... only in Canada ... beside it was Naomi and Albertos fault ....ouwh and the lady who REALLY needed to get out more and experience life

What do these have in common? ... well not a lot other than it was Ellen's 26th birthday for the 20th time and we were in Antofalla.

Birthday side trip for the day was in order so sans house and contents we took off south along side the salar toward Paraje Vega La Botijuela where Simon lives who is a friend of Walter who runs Alma Gaucho tours.

The track up to the oasis





Simon wasn’t there when we arrived so we had the whole place to ourselves ...even better although it would have been great to have met him.



Was a little muddy/greasy but we made it easy enough



Hot pool, yes a small thermal just big enough for a coupla people ... no room for clothing so we piled in enjoying an epic bath tub view.



This is what birthday happiness looks like



Check out the amazing array of colours in this place, unreal!!!



Crossing part of the salar of the way back, lumpy in places



Frozen, expanded salt and earth ... Jaime this shot is on the moon ...we never found the rover tho



In stark contrast and just 100 meters from that moon surface appears this, like the helmet says ...must look :eek1:eek1



Mind boggling colours ...what a treat and a half





Part of the boring road back



There are two ponds only about 80 meters apart, one is slightly red



The other slightly blue



I could see myself riding there again



Back to home base at Antofalla for a big feed of Llama steak and chips (fries).

What a great day out on a stunning planet

Happy birthday to you Ellen, this gift was the location chosen at Ellen's request.

Awesome photos!!

amazing!!!

Happy Birthday Ellen!!!!!!

Whoo Hoo! Go Batty, 3rd in the Le mans GP last night! Atta Boy!!!!

Beautiful images guys esp. that lunar orange-red stuff. Up the end of the Arawhata Valley has some similar colours in places but no se puede comparer.

Amazing looking country and what a great way to celebrate a birthday!

All the best!

Love the pic of you two in the hot pool!

Happy birthday Ellen =)

Cheers

Josh

Ellen chose well.

Those pics are just UNREAL
生日快乐 Ellen !!!