KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

Hi,

I have play in the lower shock bearing on my 99 LC4 400D.

The KTM part number is

54203083050 HINGE BEARING BLASTED £45.48

And with seals and a new grease nipple it all comes to £80.

Is any one aware of an aftermarket replacement. I cannot find an All Balls replacement at half the price, but surely KTM used the same bearing on other models.

Also, does it just hammer (sorry I mean Press!) out??


Thanks for your help.

Simon
<a href="http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/Snufkins_Hat/media/IMG_0130_zps69ff1555.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/S/Snufkins_Hat_IMG_0130_zps69ff1555.jpg" border="0" alt="KTM LC4 400 ford crossing photo IMG_0130_zps69ff1555.jpg"/></a>
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I am starting to think that an LC4 bike might be my next one...maybe. Can someone talk about ins and outs of 640 Adv vs 640E vs 625sxc.

I am going to be doing long distance off road....slab will be involved getting from one section to another. Some will be tighter and rocky but I was able to do it on a DR650 easily. I have owned just about everything and the my latest DR650 did well but is not tall enough....pivot leg hits immediately when I corner. Need a taller bike (I am 6'4" at 228lbs)

Let me know what you think or if I am barking up the wrong tree.

You are a filthy pig, ktm forum, one of the reprobates should have one kicking about, failing that get the bearings from somewhere else.

The LC4 is a nice tall bike. I think it is a very good all rounder. Much more supple off road than my XT660Z Ténéré, but more vibrations. The Ténéré feels like a road bike in comparrison. The LC4 is as solid as they come, and feels like it is hewn out of granite.

As far as I know that bearing is a KTM special & you just have to get screwed on it if you want one. Not sure on the seals for that one but all the other lower suspension bearings & seals are definitely available at any bearing shop.

A few appropriately sized sockets & a vice makes a nice press for removal/replacement.

If you kinda liked the DR but want something taller an LC4 would definitely be a good pick. In brief:

If you need 500km+ range, or just like the rallye look: Adv

The E is the sweet spot for me. Get one with the 18L tank.

The SXC has an extra inch of suspension which you may appreciate, but no cush hub & a smaller front brake. Small tank obviously. Some have the flat slide FCR carb which is nice vs the CV BST on the E & Adv. Most years of SXC have less oil capacity also.


The XR650L may also be worth considering - pretty basic tech like the DR but taller.

Cheers
Clint

You should price a whole new pro-link. I don't think it's all that much more expensive and includes all new bearings and seals.

Thanks, I see that the whole thing is £152.00 here in the UK. Or twice just what the lower shock bearing and seals cost.

The bolts should be replaced also I guess, then it's all done.

Simon

Hello all,

A real simple question here; I've purchased a new OEM kick starter for my '02 640 ADV (turns out I was not the only one rattling my teeth out on the bike!)

The new kickstarter came with a shineee new mouth on it; but it only has half a dozen teeth on it. I looked at my old one and thought "maybe it only had a hand full of teeth too." There are marks all the way around the old one, but maybe just from where hard steel shaft was imprinting on the soft aluminium lever...

Can someone more enlightened tell me whether I have got the right kick start lever?

It looks the same as on my 01 640E. I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that is was excessive wear from vibration.

It's only supposed to have a few teeth for locating on the splines, they don't go all the way around.

Vibes indeed! I was hoping that the kicker only came with a few teeth, they are pricey (200 bucks here in Australia), didn't want to have to return it.

Thanks for the advice!

Hi Guys,

I was doing a service on my '05 KTM 640 SM and noticed the coolant had some oil in it. There wasn't much oil really and it seemed to be mostly in the right radiator with the (cap)


I checked the oil but that seemed fine (no coolant in it, not milky)

I know these bikes weakness is the water pump, but I thought that usually when the seals are going it leaks water into the oil, then as the oil level rises it ends up in the air box. My airbox was clean and oil level was ok as well.

do I need to get it pressure tested? how likely is it to be the head gasket? bike has done 19,000km

I would change the water pump seals and see then if the problem persists.

The previous owner on my bike had two LC4's, and on one of them he had unevenly tightened the cylinder head bolts, which resulted in a very slight bend of the head that could be fixed with machining the gasket surface. I very much doubt that your bike has the same issue, unless one of the bolts has somehow gone loose.

When I got the bike, it would run for about 15 seconds and then make a really big "clack" noise and turn off. What happened was that so much water got into the combustion area and evaporated to such extent due to pressure and heat, that the engine couldn't turn anymore. You should have seen my oil then. The only thing that allowed me to separate it from whipped cream was the coffee color. I had to wash the whole engine and the case halves to make sure it was clean.

So, if your oil is the color it should be and is not different in its viscosity or in any other way different from normal, I would almost instantly rule out the head gasket. If the head gasket would blow, it would also allow the coolant to get into oil. The process of getting rid of the oil/water residue from the engine is huge, so I would test all other possibilities first.

I'm no LC4 expert, but do own one and my money would be on the water pump too.

Sooo my RR gave up the ghost and is charging the battery at 19.7 vdc at idle. I am wondering if I have to use a direct replacement or if I can get away with using one off of a different model. I have known friends that have used Yamaha RR in a VFR with no problems. I am just not sure how these are rated... I am not scared of the wiring ( although I wonder if all the yellow AC wires need to be in phase....) but I do not want to throw good money after bad. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!! Matt

Maybe this is an opportunity to upgrade the system?

Scroll down to Earthscape's post on increasing electrical output:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82712&page=2
read thru the entire thread and maybe look for recent posts by Earthscape because the process evolved - I think he ended up using the RR for the 950.

EDIT: page 6:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82712&page=6

Hey guys, picked up a nice 2003 640 Adventure a couple weeks ago. Under 5k miles. :eek1

My question is, is there a high idle adjustment for when full choke is on? I had an 03 640 Adventure in the past, also bought secondhand, and full choke on that bike was MAYBE about 3k RPM. This one is over 4k, enough to vibrate the sucker around the shop on its own, which I feel is unnecessary. Even on cold mornings, my previous 640 would fire right up full choke around 3k, then I could almost immediately shut it off and she'd go just fine. Of course it was rejetted, but I have no idea what to cause I never messed with it. I just rejetted mine to a 160 main jet and removed the snorkle cause I can't find that KTM airbox cover everyone seems to like. No longer available (unless someone has one they wanna sell?) Also running an SXC Competition muffler.

Maybe I have to adjust free play on the choke so that it's only around 3k fully choked? Is this recommended or is there any reason not to do it that way? Didn't really find any info to support any of this in the link list, but I may have missed it.

Ideas?

Check your Pm's

Is it a bst40 carb?
If so put some slack in the cable, it will self adjust rpm.

Set idle rpm per the manual.

IMHO.
bill

Tis indeed a BST40 carb.

Slack the choke cable, you mean? I'll give it a shot when I'm with the bike in a couple days. Thanks Bill.