KLR650 Only Thread......

I know it's been done to death, but new thoughts are always welcome....

My 08 KLR has been going through way too much oil.

The counter sprocket seal, and maybe gear selector seal, was leaking considerably, so both of these have been replaced and there is no more leaks.

However, the bike is still using oil. On recent rides I've been told by fellow riders that they can smell the oil as they follow.

I've been given advice that the "rings on 08" are a known problem.
It has also been suggested that the valve seals contribute to the problem.

I'd love to do a 685 or 705, but that is apparently way too expensive down here in Australia - shipping kills it.

I'm still new to bikes, so would like to know if someone does the valve clearances and seals, would it be a good time to do the rings as well????

The bike only has 20,000km on it.

I bought it third hand at 17,0000km from an owner who did his own (apparently inadequate) servicing.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks.

So my countershaft has been leaking. It was for a while before I did the 688 and now before I start the 688 I am taking care of everything and doing a total 'refresh' on it.

So I removed the counter sprocket and then the collar would not move. It is frozen on there right now(not literally :) )and I am struggling to get it off. I cannot spin it or anything. I have gotten the rubber seal off from around it but the metal collar is still stuck on there. I've tried a few pliers but nothing has worked yet.

Anyone have any ideas??

Ok. When I did the doohickey I used an EM spring, but not the torsion spring. I put the new rotor bolt in when I did so.
I've since ordered the torsion spring and will be putting it in before the weather breaks.
I've put less than 2000 miles on the new rotor bolt.
I need opinions as to whether I need to put a new rotor bolt in or can reuse this one.
I still have the original rotor bolt as well.
???

Are you intent on changing the collar or o-ring with the seal? If not, (and the collar isn't visibly scored or worn) just replace the seal and leave the collar.

If you need to change the collar, see if you can get a small 90-deg allen wrench in there behind the collar and pull it out. Or a piece of wire or something...

Get a new bolt ...... they stretch when torqued, what's the setting? 130 ft lbs ? That's a lot of stress on threads. 2000 miles or none, once it's torqued it's time for a new one.




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Opinions differ on this. Here's one:

I've re-used my rotor bolt probably five times now. My motor still runs.

Others will probably call the rotor bolt a torque-to-yield bolt, which is supposed to be used once. They might be correct.

Ditto on the once its torqued you replace even with zero miles...

These early GenII's had issues with burning oil via the piston rings/bad bores regardless of previous apparently inadequate servicing. Valve seals and seats have not been an issue, however, an engine thats burning oil will lead to issues with your topend (valves seats/seals). Without fixing the real issue (new rings and cylinder spec'd for true and either honed or rebored) you are wasting your money going thru the head.

What he said, and I will add to it.

When I did my top end I found that the factory Kawq valve guide seals are not the best. Some of the aftermarket ones are better, but I can't remember all of the details right now. Sorry. Also, the stock valve springs are known to be weak and should be replaced. Stock is okay, just freshen them up. As to the bore. Woessner makes mild oversize kits for these engines. They work really well and you should be able to source them down under. A competent engine builder should be able to do it all for you without spending too much.

I reused mine and haven't had a problem, that was 20,000 miles ago.

My understanding is that the o-ring in there is usually the problem? Is the leak coming from the rubber seal around the countershaft? If so I will just replace that single part and see how it works..

Thanks!

My tool kit has a spark plug tool. Suggest removing the spark plug wire and blowing down there with some compressed air first. That plug well fills with dirt and debris that you don't want falling into the cylinder.

New bearings and seals for my shock linkage arm, that and the swingarm are hanging back on the bike. Now I just need to have my shock refilled with nitrogen and I can reassemble the rest of the rear end.

HEAT..........and the freezer.........make that job alot easier.


Fido

G'day Stuser

I've just done my '08 (nearly back together - maybe this w/e....)

I went with the Wossner +2mm (they were all the same price) about $275 for kit + bore, plus head cleaning & valve grind for $200, plus new valve seals & shims, top & bottom gaskets plus cam chain adjuster gasket all from Mototech.com.au (parts diagrams and prices are on their website)







Mine was using up to 1 litre of oil in 500km of hi-way.



OBD

People,



My father is selling his KLR 650. At the present moment this is all I know.............

• It is the year before they changed body styles
• It runs perfect
• Low miles
• New parts
• New tires
• When he bought it, he had Casey Cycle City in Newport News go through and flush, service ,and tune the whole bike.
• He is asking $3,000.00
• The bike is in Newport New, VA

I'll try and get some pics and more info later...........

My thoughts...

While it's known that the '08 piston ring design change led to increased oil consumption for many people, how the bike is used (any year KLR really) could be a significant contributor to the oil consumption issue. Running at higher cruising speeds for long distances equates to higher sustained piston speeds - hard on the rings. Experts such as Eagle Mike and Watt-man think that liners may be distorting due to the way the stock OEM cooling system operates (if so, that's good reason I think to do the Thermo-Bob mod) - cylinder bores that distort out-of-round will contribute to poor piston ring sealing too.

I'm just saying that this is a bit more complex issue than just blaming Kawasaki for the design of the '08 pistons. Should KLRs really be driven 70+ mph for long distances? I don't believe they were really designed for that.

My '92 has become an oil burner. I have a sidecar on mine, and really have to flog my motor hard - I dropped to a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket, and immediately noticed an increase in oil consumption. I'm doing the 685 kit in spring... have a spare '96 cylinder already bored/honed/piston fitted, just waiting for warmer weather to do it.

If I was in your position, I'd go for a 685 kit or an aftermarket 1 size over piston (Wossner for example).

Edit: I did the Thermo-Bob mod too already BTW.

Kawasaki admits blame for the oil consumption, so YES blame Kawasaki. I have an '07 and I drive it for hours on end at 75 mph. They are built for that. I only check my oil when I change it @ 2000 miles.

I disagree that the klr was not designed to run at highway speeds considering the gearing and target market for this bike. There is no reason why a klr should not run 70 mph all day without burning significant oil. To accept anything else is just making excuses for a poor design IMHO.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Interesting feedback! Question then - why do such a significant number of KLRs become oil burners?

It seems that a few of you refuse to believe that higher piston speeds, and the increased stress on the rings, is to blame, so why do you think it occurs?

EDIT - no argument it shouldn't be happening.